Lukas 33

Hey guys, I was going through my cupboard and found a clutch I bought ages ago. It wasnt strong enough so I immediately upgraded to a better one without ever using the clutch. The clutch kit is an Exedy Ceremetallic 3 puk clutch. It is for a R33 Gtst Series 1. It comes with the pressure plate, upgraded friction plate (4 puk), release bearing and scopot bush. I really just want to get rid of this as it is no use to me. The clutch has NEVER been used. Can hold around 320 rwkw. It is a great clutch. The only reason I wanted a stronger one is I would like to make around 420rwkw when finished. I am looking for $500. Contact me via PM or SMS me anytime on 0406895948. Cheers

Means he thinks your just another kid trolling on SAU to waste time and talk shit. Not saying you are. Just thats what I think he thinks.......catch me?

Ok I will get it checked out as soon as I can and get a stock ecu on tuesday or so. Im 350kms from the car so gotta try and get a mate to do it at the moment. I would much rather the loom be faulty than the ecu Should i put the ignition to ON and just unplug one injector plug at a time and put the test light on each plug to see if they all have power? Will try and get an electrician friends out there to have a look

It is sparking to all cylinders now. But why no fuel to anything but number 6? Could it be that the ignitor may stilll be faulty? Is it worth buying another ignitor and stock ecu to see if this could be my problem? If my injectors plugs or ignitor had a crap connection would that put the car into a sort of limp mode? Main question. should I try getting a new ignitor and ecu and trying that out? Cheers

Yeh I have pulled the CAS off and have rotated the shaft around. It is still only activating inj 6 and coil 2. No pins are bent

Nah I havent. Where exactly should I look for signal to the injectors? Or just check power is getting to the injector plugs? I doubt 5 of 6 injectors are broken but I will check if there is any signal being sent to them. Should I just check for a signal between the ignitor and the coils? Do you suspect broken injectors or coils? Cheers

The ECU is second hand. However it was from an rb25 and the car WAS running for a couple of laps around the block before this kind of shit happened when trying to start

Hey guys Im having some troubles trying to get my car running, I have an rb25/30 in my series 1 r33 gtst. The ecu has not yet been tuned but I dont see why it should still not start and run roughly. ECU is a microtech LT12s. You might mock it but thats what the majority of tuners are good at around here. It is only sparking on Cylinder number 2 and only putting fuel into number 6. What the hell could be causing this? I have checked all the connections many many many times to make sure everything is all plugged in. I have changed the plugs to some new ones at the right gap and there is still only spark on cylinder number 2. I have also fiddled with the CAS and still nothing. I have also tried fitting a working CAS and it is still doing the same thing. What could be doing this? Could it be that the igniter is broken? Would the igniter being stuffed affect the fuel injection or could it be a coincedence and something else is f**ked at the same time. I am kind of hoping that the ECU isnt f**ked but I dont have a standard one to test on the car just for initial start up. All suggestions welcome Thanks guys

haha yeh ash is a fan of the search button

I think he means this one http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ar...tr-t278312.html I dont see any reason in there for it to be closed

Ok turns out the plug wasnt snapped it had melted. It was just that covered in black crap. I have put new plugs in it but it still isnt wanting to start. Any ideas on what it might be? I have tried winding it over and I got a couple of backfire sounding noises. Someone please help

Yeh I have oil pressure. I pulled the plugs out today to put new ones in and found out one of the plugs has loss a little bit of metal down in the motor. Do you reckon I can get a little flexi magnet pen to try and get it out? How much damage can it do? God dam I have no luck

Ok I need some help once again. I finally started my 25/30 for the first time yesterday and it was going as fine as it could for no AAC, bigger cams and no tune. So I put it into the shed to do a check up later last night at about 11pm and when I started the car is made a tapping noise. It sounds like it is coming from the back of the head. Another member posted a video on youtube and it sounds exactly the same Way too loud to be injector pulse. Im thinking it is either big end bearing or lifters. I didnt get the car above 4000 yesterday and only putted around in third gear (went to the servo) so I dont know how it could be a bearing! Knowing my luck it is and I will have to pull the f**king thing out again. I topped up the oil to see if the noise may go away but it was still there. Now about half an hour ago I went to start the car to see if it made the noise when it was a little warmer outside and the bloody thing wont start at all. Maybe my plugs are completely fouled from the overfueling? Please help

Ok that problem is all fix now I just disconnected everything under the bonnet one thing at a time till it stopped blowing fuses. It was the connector for the igniter. I just took it off and pluged it in again and it seemed fine. Weird issue. Im on the clutch problems now. But thats for another thread. Thanks guys

Could the ECU fuse be blowing from short circuiting from the coil packs, injectors or fuel pump and such? If so what are all the things that may have an affect on it? Cheers

Ok I went and got a fuse box translation and pulled out the Engine Control 10A fuse to see if it was blown. Yes it was blown. I figured I could have accidently done something so I put the 10A fuse from the hazard lights in there. I connected the battery back up and turned the key. The hand controller for the ECUs screen light up and immediately turned off again. Disconnected the battery to check the fuse I just put in and it was f**ked too . OH O. Is the ECU drawing too much power or do I have a nice short circuit happening somewhere? Cheers

I just connected it to the block just then but still no power

Cheers guys I have today off so I will go work on the car some more and connect up that lead. If still no power I think I will just check the ecu harness. If anyone would know off the top of their head.......is the pin number for the main battery power supply to the ecu pin number 58? Cheers

Come on guys. Im lost

Hey guys Up for sale I have my Microtech LT12s ecu for rb25det. It comes with the ECU, hand controller and the plug and play adaptor for easy installation. The ECU has a built in 3 bar MAP sensor. The reason for sale is I wish to move on to one of the newer model Haltech Computers. Everything is in perfect condition. Asking price is $1700

Hey guys I was wondering if you can help me out. I am in the process of finishing my engine off. I just put in a 25/30 and im connecting everything back up and getting it ready for its first start. HOWEVER. There is a nice thick black wire with a yellow stripe (just underneath all the wiring near the washer bottle) and I am wondering what exactly it does and where I need to connect it to. Im guessing it is the earth for the block but I'm not 100% sure and also not 100% sure about where exactly to put it. I have also just put in a Microtech LT12S.....(bag it out if you wish but its what I was recommended due to the tuners in Townsville....)..anyways. I have just put the ECU in and when I went to set the injector correction the hand controller didnt come on. So I had a look down at the ecu and it appears to have nooooooooooo power. Could this be from the mysterious black wire which I have no idea where it goes? All help is appreciated Cheers

Hey man. gt30r usually has a .6 front now a .7 Sound more like a gt35r with a tiny rear housing. If its the .6 front with the 0.63 it would be nice and responsive on your normal rb25. Will run out of puff in the higher rpm with the little housing though. With the larger 0.82 housing you can make about 300rwkw with the gt30r 0.6 front ex gate. Can you check to make sure it is 0.7 and it is still a gt30r and not a gt35r? In my eyes a turbo for a stock internal rb25 with fairly good spool time that can still have a nice smoother power curve and wont run out of puff I would go a gt30r with a 0.6 front and 0.82 rear.

BUMP

BUMP - Still for sale guys. Chasing 160 Delivered.

Whats your best price delivered to Townsville 4812 QLD?