EliseViv

Hi RB335 Thanks for the heads up on how to check oil. Was worried as i had no idea how much was in it. So i took the compressor out today and drained 7ml out of it. So glad i did!! So what is the recommended amount to put back in. Also can I tip it in the compressor? Or in via gas fill line.

LOL. Car lives in Townsville. I fly!

Hi Lads, just a quick Hello if you see my freshly painted light grey (TG0) R32 GTST kicking about Townsville (Vincent). Commuting between Isa and Townsville, but should see me about on odd weekends. Cheers Brett

BTW I think the AC compressor must have simply stopped at a point where it blocked off the filling system and all I had to do was "move" the pump internals so enough pressure was in the system to kick the pressure switch on. So next question. How do I know if there is enough oil in the system and what is the correct HYChill volume for the R32. The gauges are a bit erratic, so I suspect I cant rely on them as a reading, but I have 60-100mmhg on low pressure and 150-180 on the high pressure. Also my sensors are shot, as I have to have it on FC to work, but Ill sort those the same way as everyone else.

Not sure of the etiquette here....BUT IT F&^KING works :-) Cold cold air, and 33C and 50% humidity currently in Townsville and I am an ICY cool 40 something balding fat man in my 30 year old import :-) So what happened. I rehooked up the HVAC gauges and put the hychill can back on the refill hose to see if I could get more than 80mmhg in the low pressure side. I jumped the ac clutch at the relay box (pulled the AC Relay and put a "BIG" bit of wire across the switch (I think 2 and 7). Use plyers as it will get hot. The clutch jumped into life and I noticed the gauges reacted instantly. The Can of Hychill got cold as it emptied its contents into the system where it belongs :-) Pulled out my jump wire, put the relay back in, and it seems to be functioning So Ive got 300-400grams of hychill in there. Sat in the cabin and enjoyed the ICY cold blast. Did a short trip and enjoyed the windows wound up sitting at traffic lights wondering if I need a sweatshirt to keep warm. So Thanks to the collective, ONE HAPPY CAMPER here

Hi John, Firstly the skyline is a toy, so I'm never stressed on timelines. The work 'rolla, will always have functioning aircon :-). Natrad effectively refused to quote, and pleaded ignorance (couldnt find a dryer even), told me that R134A would not work, and that I would need to replace everything including the condensor, as the higher pressures would potentially bust the system. They put 134A nipples on the system, evacced the old gas, regasses it with 134A, diagnosed a "blockage" and then evacced the gas and left it in a vaccum. The cost was a few sheckles from $400, which I expected, but hoped it would work. To be fair, the bloke doing the work wasn't difficult to deal with, nor was he rude, but if I put myself in his shoes, he saw a 30 year old jap import, and a middle aged balding bloke who was trying to recapture his boyhood. I suspect he wanted me to go away! At which point I did a bit of internet research. I seem to have also hit this "blockage" as I also have only been able to get 150 or so grammes of fluid in the system, so their diagnosis wasnt wrong. I just think I can do better than their prognosis for my wallet. I didn't pursue them after that as its clear they are not interested, and that is not an issue for me as I'm happy to invest in my own knowledge and tools. They are not obliged to look after middle aged balding blokes with old jap imports ;-) Cheers Brett

Oh and one can of Hychill feels about half full (can compare with he unopened one :-)). So I guess I got 150-200 grams of gas in.

Hi John, Been busy till now, so holidays just arrived and toy is out again. So the complete story. Moved to Isa from Tassie and Aircon is a must! I had the system evacuated by the local Nad-Rad, expecting that a $500 re-gas and it would work, but they scared the crapper out of me with a quote which indicated the Skyline is a write-off! So I did the e-bay shuffle bought a vacuum pump and a set of gauges, taps etc, ~$200 all up - a dryer receiver from Repco (part # RD5010) ~$50 - and a couple cans of Hychill and some Hychill AC oil from Burson's, ~$75 and watched a dozen or so videos on youtube to get the idea on how to read the gauges. So plugged the gauges onto to a work car that had the ac functioning, and was exactly as per Hoyle, and got a good practical feel on how it all works. So onto the R32 RB20DET Skyline The system still had a vacuum on it from the Natrad people. (About 2 months ago) Put the Vacuum pump on the system and pulled about -22mmhg instantly, and about -25 (ish) after 5 minutes. Turned off the taps, and it stayed there over night. I then replaced the receiver dryer and re-vacummed for 30 mins. I shut off the taps at the gauges, and put the can of Hychill onto the "centre yellow hose" hose, and bled it at the gauges till the hychill fluid came out of the bleed point. I opened the low "blue" side and the fluid flowed in (could see it in the sight glass in the gauges). The low pressure side climbed rapidly to 80mmhg, and stayed there. I started the car, put the AC on "FC" (down to 18 and then held the down button till Full Cold "FC" came on). The engine lifts a few revs, I presume expecting the power drain from the AC compressor, but the compressor simply wont come on.. The pressure climbed slowly to 100mmhg and stayed there for an hour before I gave up. I left the engine running, checked fuses etc, but couldn't see anything a miss in the obvious. So next I was going to "jump" the AC compressor to make it run, but thought I better check here first. I didnt put any oil in, as there didn't seem to be any in the RD5010, and nothing is obviously being sucked out by the vacuum pump. Any help gratefully taken :-) Cheers Brett 0419388038

Hi Peeps, Need to get a new receiver/dryer and the NATRAD guy cant find one?!? Anyone have any advice on retailer/part number. Cheers Brett

Hi Peeps, How much of the HR SRO Oil should I put in. I've drained the old oil out, but cannot find a "weight" to put it back in? Its a boggo, R32 GTST (1989) RB20DET. Cheers Brett

This post is 18 months old, but just saved me a WHOLE heap of grief, as I though i had to change everything. Thanks to the collective "brainstrust", and Ill be sure to document my progress over the next few weeks on this thread. Regards Brett

Hi Lads, Ive got a R32 RB20DET, and put the GTR triple cluster in the console to fill up a blank hole. The non functioning OIl temp guage is starting to annoy me, but I cant seem to find/see where the sender goes on the engine, nor find an OEM temp sender. Anyone have the Information so I can post a wanted in the classifieds. Also happy to buy an aftermarket sensor and tap it into the sump, if thats a better alternative. Regards and Thanks Brett

Piece of cake, so long as you didnt need the self-cancelling. Built a few kit cars and shifted them around, nothing stopping you rotating it 180 (and flipping it) and putting the wipers on the dash (a-la R31/R32 arrangement).

Get a solicitor, there are VERY explicit rules about records that you need to keep over 7 years, and invoice/reciptds is definately not one of them. You can say I paid, and thats the end of that. Unless they have been reminding you constantly over the last ten years, they will be laughed out of court! And then there is the "Statute of Limitations", which also sets out the time it takes to pursue you. Muder and Rape are indefinate, but the more trivial issues have pretty short lifetimes. This is a case of an overzealous junior clerk, (likely with a BS title of "Senior consultant, Fines Enforcement and Collection"), so once you go over their head with a solicitor the case will be dropped. GL with it, Brett

Hi King, I think we have our wires crossed, I actually mean the winding windows. There is a stainless strip with a thin rubber cover on it. Its probably possible to just paint it, but Ill have a closer look this weekend, remove it and see what work is required. But it pisses me off as the rest of the car interior is pretty much mint (Im a fussy old barstard), and this strip samcks me in the back of the eyeball every time I get in the car. Cheers Brett

OK fellas, Ill hunt up some prices/strategies. Im looking to remove the stianless inner part of the rubber and see if there is a way to recoat it or slide it inside some other moulding. Ill keep the forum posted Cheers Brett

Hello Fellas. The warmer weather has me preparing the car for a splash of renewed colour... and the Nissan boys certainly stretched their imagination with my colour being :"Blue silver effect!" Well I like the colour anyway :-) But I have been looking at the rubber seals at the top of the windows. The rubber coated steel has had the rubber peel away (aged in the sun) and its about the only thing I cant rejuvinate. Where do I get this from... (Nissan OZ?) Cheers Brett

G'Day Mate, Do you have the speedo Cable and the bit right behind the speedo itself. If so how much. (Ill internet Bank it into you bank account immediately :-)) Postage to Tassie reqd. Cheers Brett

Hi I always thought that the GTR & GTSt front indicators were the same.... What is the difference?

Oh and yes I deleted the radio option on my clubman LOOOONG ago. Couldnt here it anyway from the wind rushing past the head :-).

Yeah but a full blown drag car would "normally" be 2WD so a non GTR RB26DETT would be the way to go.

Dave here is the reason.... The reason :-) "Why a Seven Here is One more reason?? The following article has been borrowed from an article out of Sports and Classic Cars – October November 1998, and the article was titled, "Open for Business" (author unknown) The article is about a Mazda MX5 but the reason for discussion is relevant, "A few months ago I found myself on the receiving end of a salutary lesson in the pure essence of sports car driving. The experience brought with it a sharp reminder of an almost forgotten time when motoring thrills were not the exclusive preserve of forced induction engines, multiple valves and twin, or even quad overhead camshafts. Four wheel drive was strictly limited to Land Rovers and military jeeps and any futurologist who mentioned the impending importance of a ‘blow off valve’ would probably have been goaled as a sex offender. Doing a ‘Nuvolari’ The memory jogging was provided by a humble Austin Healey Sprite Mk IV, a car which hardly portrays an image of tyre-shredding terror. And yet, with only a paltry 65hp, this Sprite possessed an innate sense of charm which seems to have been overlooked a car manufacturers pile on the gizmos and the horsepower. Zip the sprite around with casual abandon and sharp cornering, even at low speeds, will produce a symphony of tyre chirps and howls. Hang on until the car’s limits are exceeded, you don’t have to wait long, and the reward is almost instantaneous – the sprites rear end slides outwards, is easily caught with a flick of opposite lock and you quickly find yourself doing a ‘Nuvolari’ as you exit the corner. This, I feel perfectly illustrates the enduring appeal of cheap, basic sports cars, such as the Sprite – the fun happens a relatively low speeds. There isn’t going to be too much trouble ahead if you overstep the limit, and even a novice driver rapidly builds up enough confidence to really exploit the car’s handling characteristics." Combine all these factors with a snappy gear change, responsive rack and pinion steering - and the ability to wrist-flick your way through traffic or other road obstacles, and there you have the perfect recipe for a sports car. The fact that the Sprite is flat knacker at rather less than 100mph is completely immaterial - its the driving thrills that count and the little Austin-Healey proves that you dont need to be travelling at light-speed to get a buzz from your motoring. What a pity the British lost the plot during the early 1970s........ " Im not all that old..... (I still have a 3 in front of my age) but I really do enjoy driving unaided... an XU1 Torana, an Alfa 105 or the Clubman (No PS, No Brake assist, no AC, no LSD, no ABS, noTC.. The driving is all down to me..... . The R32 is much much much faster than all three of these, but it doesnt have the something that they have. In saying that now Ive driven a Turbo car, Im never going back to NA for a daily car!!!! Horses for courses. As to the broken brick.... The clubbies have a (very) bad CD, but fortunately they dont have the frontal area of a truck :-). To demonstrate this not having a windscreen improves my time at Winton by nearly 2 secs! Cheers Brett

I built one from a kit a few years ago, and LOOOOOVVVVVEEEE it. There is nothing even close to a Clubman to drive (On this side of $20,000). It beats the hell out of a motorbike because you can decide to have a drive in the middle of winter and you get the wind in your face, without having to worry about being cold, the fact the road is wet, or getting all the leathers on. A fun (and very amaturish) build diary is at www.geocities.com/westfieldseven To understand what its like to drive on simply go down to the local rentagocart place and do a few powerslides, then you have a clubman. They are not all that fast, as they have the aerodynamics of a broken brick, and typically they have 120 or so Hp. Traffic poses no problem as accelleration between 60-140km/h approaches supercar status. To got extreme hp is not in the philosophy of a clubman. Ive driven a 320 hp car, and it wasnt fun to drive. You loose the carefree nature of the car. This is the reason I got a R32. I wanted something which I could gate 200rwkw out of so I can enjoy it. And the homebuilt car is not the right place for that. I drive to work sometimes, suit, tie and helmet (Ive no windscreen), and you get to work feeling invigourated, better than a motorbike because you dont have the hassle of getting dressed, and you have a heater to keep the toes warm. I have inspired 5 cars to be acquired. How? They simply took my car for a drive. Nuff said. They either built from kit. from scratch or bought outright. If I feel shitty with the world, I get in the clubman and drive to Strahan on the westcoast and back, just for the hell of it (Often at 2 in the morning.... I have a shitty job). Come up to a hairpin, plant the right foot, pile on the opposite lock and leave a pair of black marks 10 feet long. If you truely enjoy the act of driving, beg, borrow or steal a clubman, and take a few days off :-). Cheers Brett

G'Day Fellows, My R32 Speedo drive broke off the other day (drove over some debris on the road which pulled the cable out of the gearbox destroying the cable). I was mildly surprised that it was a cable as the earlier R31s are electronic with the electronic screw on hall effect dohicky being screwed on to the outside of the gearbox wheer the drive would normally go. As I have a few R31s laying about here I was wondering if anybody has removed the Electronic speedo guage from the R31 and installed it in place of the R32 Speedo. I would have the added advantage of being > 180km/h max as well :-) I can then just screw the R31 drive on to the speedo a bit of simple wiring and were away! Ive not dismantled the R32 cluster yet, but certainly its easy enough to get the r31s speedos out of their case. Any comments (Im trying to acquire a spare R32 cluster to practice on!) Cheers Brett