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camandcandice

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Everything posted by camandcandice

  1. Yeh they were head to block
  2. If its for an rb26 the correct torque is 125ft lbs in three equal steps with ARP moly lube
  3. Drivers side= 38342-03V00 Passenger side= 38342-03V10 Drive Pinion= 38189-03V00
  4. They are 40 bux new from Nissan, they do an overnight delivery! Part number= 11150-05U02 ,guide-oil level gauge
  5. Yeh they are the head to block ones, my gearbox to block has a solid type that's still in the block
  6. The head is sitting square and in the right position I removed a couple of head studs to check, but I won't take the risk of it shifting under heavy load its been 4 years since i drove my gtr and god i miss it, ive just been down to gm Motorsport in melton and bought my self a 1.69oz tube of arp assembly lube enough to build the motor 20 times! So off to the workshop for another tear down Cheers cam
  7. Damn to answer my own question both are recessed there goes the easy way out
  8. Or is the recess for the dowel only in the block? Or is both head and block recessed? If only the block is recessed for the dowel maybe I could place the dowel in through the head holes?
  9. I'm pretty sure they are the head to block locaters, I guess I'm tearing my motor down, unless you guys think the arp head stud kit is a good enough locater
  10. Yeah true better safe than sorry,I wouldn't be happy unless I knew where they went any how keep me awake at night haha, thanks for all your input guys appreciate it! Cheers cam
  11. The motor is still on the engine stand, I prob used the stud kit as alignment and not thought twice, the r33 engine manual has no mention of there being locating dowels which is why I may have over looked it, guess what I'm doing this weekend then god damn it!!, unless you guys think the arp stud kit would line the head up enough?or best not to risk it?
  12. Haha yeh that's a red bull can ring, the dowels are 10mm long as well if that helps
  13. Good question BSA you have got me worried honestly I can't remember,i put the head on a good year or so ago using a arp stud kit
  14. They are 14mm o/d
  15. Head is all ready on the block guys the motor is more or less finished apart from cam gear front cover and ati balancer, should I be pulling the motor apart?
  16. The head to block use a dowel pin, I'm thinking they must be for one of the front covers because of the zip lock bag i had them in I've tried Nissan fast program to try and locate them but still come up with nothing
  17. Nah they are from the motor, never touched inside the cabin the motor didn't last long enough!
  18. After 4 years of slowly gathering parts for my rb26 im finally putting her back together(spun bearings) 4 years is a long time and cannot remember for the life of me where the hell these go!!they where in the same zip lock bag the 3 bolts for the lower front cover was in but cant see them being used for the front cover, hope some one can reconize these 2 sleeves i guess you would call them? and save me having to pull the motor apart again! cheers cam
  19. That's cool I've ended up repairing mine, but the knock sensor harness should just unplug from the injector harness Cheers cam
  20. Yeh they are the same as the injector plug and some types of bosch alternator plugs the old man works for ashdown/Ingram and is going to grab me one tomorrow! Cheers cam
  21. You willing to break up the wire harness, I'm just after the knock sensor harness
  22. Is there any way to get the plugs for the rb26 knock sensors, I have broken the rear plug but the rest of the loom is in perfect condition, just didn't wanna buy the whole sub harness for the sake of one plug? Cheers cam
  23. When I built my rb26 I drilled the threads out deeper so the studs sit lower to give Clearence between the sump and studs rather then hacking the studs, The studs won't bottom out there is 10mm plus before you hit the bottom. Cheers cam
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