R34mac

OMG this was my old car! This is sad to see, I spent so many years looking after it

SOLD

Went out last night and took some up to date photos of the car - they are now on the carsales ad: http://www.carsales....e=SSE-AD-742696 During the week I work in Moorooka so the car can also be viewed there (please organise with me prior).

1999 R34 GTT Sedan Located in Brisbane - $12,000 with RWC for quick sale For sale is my R34 GTT Sedan - I love cars and have always kept it in fantastic condition and the paintwork has always had polish applied when required. You'll be surprised at the condition this car is in. I've owned it for the past 6 years but I recently moved to Brisbane and now need a cheap city car. I purchased my R34 at 57,000km and it is now at 117,000km - low KM for a 13 year old car - the majority of them came from highway driving. The engine is strong and has been serviced religiously every 5,000km. Includes: - OEM Xenon headlights & ballasts (Factory optioned but were removed for AUS compliance. I imported a complete setup and refitted them - lots of $$$). - Factory optioned front parking antenna - Factory optioned chrome ring / high spec instrument cluster. - Factory Skyline Seat Covers (front & rear seats) - Factory Nismo floor mats - Nismo clear indicators - Viper alarm - Perfect Interior - Wheels recently sprayed gunmetal grey In addition to regular servicing, I have also had the following work performed: - Water Pump replaced with new OEM item - Timing belt replaced around 80,000km - Replaced all brake pads at 90,000km, brake fluid flushed and replaced - New spark plugs gapped to 0.7mm Modifications include: - 3" stainless steel exhaust, done properly from the turbo back, using a custom made split dump pipe. Varex straight through muffler with noise level adjustment - Apexi pod filer and JJR air box - Front mount intercooler installed (stealth black, return flow) - 5sp manual conversion, includes braided brake lines, new slave cylinder & heavy duty clutch. Brand new GTT gear knob & R34 GTR S2 gear surround trim pieces & ash tray. - NISTUNE installed on ECU (not dyno tuned yet) - Boost Tee installed (set to a safe 9psi - factory turbo can handle up to 12) - Walbro high pressure fuel pump This car has quality modifications and runs perfectly as is - it was recently fitted with a NISTUNE ECU chip and is ready to be dynotuned for more power. If you're after a neat 5sp manual R34 Sedan then you absolutely have to come take a look. Everything works perfectly as it should - absolutely no faults or problems with this car. Good blank canvas for those wanting to modify further, or simply give it a tune and drive it as is. I love it and will feel sad to see it go. More pics on Carsales ad: http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=12807829

I moved to Toowong last Tuesday and haven't seen any Skylines around the city at all. Then I went to Sunnybank today and saw heaps. Best two - a very clean looking silver R33 GTST coupe at Sunnybank Shopping center and an R34 GTT sedan with a chunky URAS bodykit - MRR34.

I love detailing - so much so that me and a mate are planning to start our own business doing it. Moving to Brisbane next week so we may give it a shot then. My GTT sedan. Photo doesn't do it justice - came up reallly nice after 4hours of cleaning and polishing A mate's GU Patrol. This thing had thousands of scratches down the sides from off roading, but we managed to cut and polish the majority of them out. The size of the car meant we ended up spending a whole day on it. My father's old VW Karmann Ghia. The paint on this thing is shot but after a detail it ended up looking respectable. Might mean the respray can be put off for a bit longer anyway.

I'm no expert but yes I would say you either would have gotten robbed and/or had your car taken from you. Did you manage to get the plates on the Monaro for the cops? Bottom line is there is no way they would have been that aggressive if they just wanted a friendly chat!

Definitely needs the grille otherwise bugger all air will flow through. I mean the car will still run fine but it'll be down a bit on power.

The vibration / grinding noise is from the gearbox - though I am not sure why. I had my car converted to a manual - using an R33 GTST gearbox with 80,000km on it. Had a new HD clutch thrown in at the same and it has always made a grinding noise at low revs when you put any load at all through the box. On mine it disappears by around 2000rpm. I don't know the true reason - some say it is worn bearings and others say it can happen after a HD clutch has been fitted. All I know is the gearbox is still working fine 3 years later. The sound is still the same, hasn't gotten any worse.

Yes you basically have to reach right into the corner - you'll feel the little plug sticking out. Simply turn it counter clockwise a bit and it'll pop out. Installation is exactly the reverse. Those with big hands may struggle with it.

What colour is your 34?

I had mine 2-pack painted gunmetal grey (near enough to black) by a local spraypainter for $30 per wheel. Looks awesome IMO. Much better than the bronze set I had before

All i can confirm is the driver's window IS auto down and auto up. I guess if the wiring to the switch all looks OK, you could try get hold of another switch and try that?

This is definitely what I would be doing.. well the waiting bit, not the running off the road part. If you're still getting GOVIA notifications try and find a pattern to the toll crossings on a weekly basis. EG have they passed though late on a Monday night more than once? If so I'd be sitting on the side of the road just past the toll and wait it out. If it passes by follow it at a distance and note where it goes. I know it is easier said than done, but I also know how badly you'd want to get your car back. I'd be out there every night of the week if it were mine Also note the last toll crossing each day is heading EAST through the LOGANLEA EAST Toll Point, so that'd be the side I would sit on. Would hate to be waiting on the other direction, only to see them heading home on the other side....

Stock alloys resprayed in gunmetal grey

Definitely needs a tune!!! For interests sake I took my R34 out to a quiet bit of 100kph road and filmed a 0-100 timed run. I've never really gone all the way from 0-100 before at WOT and I was very surprised just how severe the stock ECU was cutting the fuel. Second gear at 4500rpm it started misfiring and straight away I reduced the throttle to around 3/4 for the rest of the run. You can't really hear it in the video, but it felt pretty horrid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STS4IsyTbiQ Was a disappointing 8.5 seconds to 100kph, from a standing start without dropping the clutch. Very much looking forward to getting this car tuned..

Some time has passed - but I still own this car and it has never missed a beat Since the last update, I've had a 3" turbo back full stainless exhaust with varex muffler installed, along with a 5sp manual conversion & new HD clutch, return flow front mount intercooler, boost tee'd it up to 12psi and added a walbro fuel pump. I managed to score a set of xenon lights from a jap import compliance company and installed them - best mod ever. I've also recently had NISTUNE installed on the ECU and will get it tuned soon - runs quite rich at the moment. The wheels are just a cheap stock set I picked up - I planned on having my original alloys resprayed gunmetal grey but never got around to it. But it's on the list to do ASAP. I want to keep the car looking stock but clean - and up the power output a bit. Will be happy if I end up with 200rwkw or above. Not everyone will appreciate a stock looking Skyline, but here you go anyway.

Could you test something out for me? Make sure the engine is up to temperature and try hit the 7000rpm limiter whilst using very low throttle. My car had issues after I upgraded my exhaust to a 3" straight through - I'd accelerate hard and then hit a wall at 4500rpm - felt exactly like a rev limiter. The workshop I took my car to said the exhaust upgrade increased the boost pressure slightly and it was now beginning to blow the spark out on the spark plugs, so they weren't igniting the fuel in the cylinders. It only happened to me when I was using half throttle or more - at smaller amounts of throttle it'd rev out higher as usual. So basically try accelerating with low throttle and see how high the revs go. If this sounds like your problem, it can be fixed by having your spark plugs re-gapped to .7mm or so (they're 1.1mm stock). Or just by buying new plugs which are gapped to 0.7 already. I may be wrong. but see how you go.

I've found no differences at all between auto and manual ecu's (auto gearbox logic aside) and my car ran exactly the same after my manual conversion - no matter if I was using an auto or manual ECU. It was probably one of my old posts you read, regarding the TCS not working. Apparently the wheel slip sensors between some R34's are different - could either be different from auto to manual cars, or even S1 to S2 cars - I don't know for sure. All I know is I still run an auto ECU in my car and it runs perfectly right up to the redline. If I run the manual ECU, TCS fails to work but otherwise runs exactly the same in every way. To muddy the waters further - Nistune flashed my auto ECU with a manual map and when I got it back TCS didn't function either. I had to get them to re-flash it with the old auto map and TCS came back. And yes they are plug'n'play.

Excuse the thread bump - but nice guide. I am currently installing a cooling pro stealth return flow intercooler at the moment. Got it all plumbed up fine - just have to cut the reinforcing bar and trim the front bar, then reinstall them both. It is worth noting that with this intercooler on an R34, if you bolt the centre mount to the front of the car, neither of the two side mounting points line up with anything, no matter how you position the supplied brackets. They come close but still won't work without modification.

I don't know how different the R33 is but there aren't really any places below the airbox where I could put in an air feed.. unless I started cutting holes through the side into the area behind the guard but I am not too keen on that! An Apexi pod is 117mm high. Diameters are: Base: 132mm Top: 120mm Widest point (which is 20mm above the base): 160mm

Yep completely agree.. which is why I never mentioned power gains as my reason for doing this.. I simply want the induction noise without the draw backs of having an unshielded pod..

No - all that effort for a stock looking airbox that is large enough to fit a pod.

Surely the point is to make the engine as efficient as possible? Haters gonna hate Regardless, here's a screenshot of my design. I made a full size test version out of thin plastic and it sits comfortably in the engine bay and clears the stock intercooler pipes nicely. I can't really progress until I buy a stock airbox and make sure it sits in the exact same position, so the snorkel and lid line up with it perfectly. It is worth noting that I have designed it around an Apexi power intake so pod filters which are any bigger will most likely not fit. I also plan on revising the design to minimise the amount of individual pieces it is constructed out of.

I've heard 5kW but in reality I think the difference would be negligible. Most people think running a pod makes a big difference but I bet it just feels faster because of the induction noise. Basically I love the induction noise and I'm trying to come up with a stock looking setup that lets me run a pod which isn't sucking in hot air from the engine bay, or stuck behind some half-arsed shroud. The actual kW gains between it and a stock airbox & filter are irrelevant to me.