Good point, though the Rear Strut Bar I have (Cusco Strut Bar) can be unbolted quited easily. (not from the strut towers, the center bar is separate to the strut tower brackets)
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/85592-stagea-group-buy-whiteline-bilstein/
Link for the group buy. Just grab the Part numbers and give whiteline a call.
Labour is going to be totally dependant on where you go. I do all my stuff myself so cant really comment.
1st things I'd be doing (assuming you don't have any damaged bushes etc.) would be suspension, rear strut bar and rear sway bar. (In that order)
But I would recomend getting any damaged bushes replaced 1st.
Also, alot of this stuff is quite easy, if you can turn a ratchet/spanner then you should be able to fit yourself. If your not sure there's tones of info on here. Then just take it for an alignment.
Hey mate.
You obviouly have quite a few options here.
Have a look at SydneyKids group buy thread. I don't think he runs it anymore, but using the partnumbers you can then contact whiteline etc. He did alot of research into the setup and most guys that have any of the parts say that its almost spot on for road use.
Biggest thing u need to get is a rear strut brace and probs swaybar.
Other than that hit up a suspension place n pick their brain. A few places will do free/cheap suspension assesments. So you can work out where needs attention.
Also remember a good set of fully sdjustables will alow you to set things as high/low hard/soft as you want.
Dude...try go to supercheep...and get the next heat rating cooler ei. 8's just get a cheep set. could just be a matter that u need to drop the temp range cause u havesuch a good spark now
EDIT: 8 may be a bit too cold....Maybe 7's. Though saying that...the worst that could happen with the 8's is you foul the plugs (If they don't crack at least you know what the prob is and can then try 7's)
Yeh man...All good... As long as I get my name in the credits Hehehe
Only thing would be as long as everyone else is happy to have their number plates in the pics.
Maybe just blur the plates.
Some of the pics I took turned out MINT
Just uploaded o my FB.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2537...mp;id=555476975
Mikey check out the ones I took of your mag/Brakes....They look awsome
Sadly....I to have had this problem...Lol...was more of a slope to the left though
Had to get me some fuel...Started then cut out....had to get him to push me backwards till i was on a diff angle so the fuel pump was covered again
Fuel cut on a RB works as a overboost defence. If the computer senses higher than standard boost pressure it retards the fuel flow. But this will obviously only happen when you have your foot down. A fuel cut defender alows you to raise or eliminate that limit.
Theres various on the market. EG. http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?...l-cut-defenders
EDIT: Dude why don't you see if you can throw a Youtube Vid up. Might make it easier to troubleshoot.
The fuel cut is there for a reason dude. Should only be activated if something is not right.
Have a look at your old plenum and mainifold. Make sure there arn't any lines that may have been left off or you've missed.
Could be as simple as a vac leak.
Also maybe try adjusting your throtle body close point. make it stay farther open with no accelerator input. If its only happening at low speed it could be that the new throttle body is just not lewtting in enough air at idle.
That sucks dude. Sorry to hear. But atleast ur ok.
Going off topic: What front bar is that?? Viva Garage have a pic of it, but I emailed them and they don't know what it is. Lol.
In the next 2-3 weeks I will have a R33 GTS-T Gearbox for sale.
Good condition, 85,000k's, includes Tailshaft, Clutch and X-member.
Pick up Brisbane, or will freight at buyers expense.
Looking for quick sale, $1500 or best offer.
Contact via PM.