pstanbis

Just got an Apexi RSM (not as acurate as a G-tech, but not bad) and i managed 8.6 to the 100, with full tank, subs+box and all the rest of the stuff most daily drivers are full of. haven't tried a 0-400 yet, but i don't think it wil be all that flash...

I just had new discs/pads put on my '32 and was wondering (if it's not too nosy) what you guys paid for your pads, coz i had to skimp a bit on the pads after paying for the discs, and they don't seem to be doing as good a job as the ones i took off ! any thoughts would be great.. cheers, phil

I just changed my plugs, and i might add that the irridium option for the 89-92 R32 (b***5IE-X) or whateveris Bl***y expensive ! i got the shock of my life when i found out the price - but then i noticed the lifespan and wasn't so worried - 140,000kms - as opposed to the 35/40,000 of the copper NGKs, so given how difficult they are to change, id say it's worth it. And i also gapped them a bit closer than the previous set i had - give a *noticeable* amount of extra torque, not monstrous, but certainly more driveable, esp. on the open road. (changed from 1.1 to ~0.9 if your interested, but thats just what the plugs were factory set to) Also seems to havce improven economy a bit, but ill hold the verdict until i've played with it in some different evironments. phil

just for my 2 bits worth, im 19, going on 20, and pay 1890 p/a for a r32 gts (2litre, non turbo) that includes listed custom kit (just recently) mags, zorst, extractors, alpine system, and tinting. i don't know what this catergory thingy your on about is, but i have a 30% ncb coz im lucky (and know a bit about driving) :bs!: also helps if you list where the car lives - i got 400 less for having a lockup garage of course i also live in a quiet little country city, so it's not really the same....

well, you obviously just answered your own question, but i just had mine replaced, and had ALOT of trouble finding ones that fit (tried all !! skyline discs listed in the dba book - none fitted - ended up with imported pintara brakes of all things - a PINTARA !? ill never live it down... one thing to keep in mind though is NEVER skimp on the pads - I balked at the price of Bendix Ultimate after paying for new rotors, but it turns out i should just have not been so stingy - the ones i got SUCK. period. no stopping power at all.... oh well, ill just brake hard, wear them out, then go the ultimate i think. and before anyone says something about this being a maintainence (spelling?) topic, greg started it :wassup:

Yep, meant dave, sorry Dan... Noticed is one thing... deafened every time you try and drive over 60 = just down right annoying !

yep N/A certainly have distinctive note - specially intake draw. Exhaust can become a bit tiresome on long trips though - Dan, what is that baffle your talking about. I'd have thought you'd need to change entire zorst systems to get them quieter?

uh, i was actually asking about the hydraulic/Electric thing - i had read the previous thread (i know ho annoying it is when people don't) and am aware that not all 33's have hicas, i was just wondering when they changed to the electric as opposed to hydro. and my hicas light comes on when i turn on the key - then *hopefully*, all being well, goes out when the engine starts. but i agree with PVA - the drag-links on the rear hubs will be the biggest giveaway!

You guys actually have restrictions on the power of cars p platers drive!? man, that is the best idea ive heard in a while - there aren't many p platers (or even after that) who can safely handle big horsepower cars. Should be a requirement to pass advanced driver training courses to be able to drive them - better for all of us then - don't kill people, but more important, no writen off cars ! back to the point though, i know what you mean greg, about maybe losing out a bit in a straight line, but pretty much any other car (except the turbo guys of the same) gets left in the dust (or smoke) at the first corner. then again at the second.... and third.... and.... well, you get the point.

sorry to break the cheerful banter in here, but i notice dave's R34 has electric HICAS - is this how it is on all '34s? or is it on '33s as well? because my '32 has hydraulic, and it runs off the Power steering pump. I know, coz when the light comes one, i add oil to the PS resevoire and it goes out ! it's the simple things in life, sometimes...

i agree, there are plenty of reason to go N/A - Insurance, not so much initial purchase cost, but certainly the quality of the car you get for your money. of course, once your over the initial thrill of your first skyline, you come to realise why the make turbo cars... and then you gotta have one !

yesp, the list goes on....

I think go to pieces might be more accurate... the high compression ratio would put way to much strain on the internals, or so im told. I think there were some posts earlier on in this thread about the addition of a turbo to a N/A engine... ill have to check though...

I should proibably point out that i only have an RB20DE atm, meaning to go to RB30-type stuff, i would need another head (RB25DE) as well as block, turbo, ecu, wiring, Dump pipes, Intercooler etc, etc. as you've already suggested. some things i was wondering about though are the RB25DET you said would require a wiring change - aren't the sensors and stuff the same? it would definitely need another ECU to handle the increased airflow, different capacity etc, but shouldn't it just plug straight into the existing harness? As for the RB20DE, would that even make a worthwhile difference ? or would it be bettter to just hold off and go all out with the RB30 idea? <- this last ones open for comment, btw. phil

joel, So do you have an RB30DE or DET ? And do you have to go to forged pistons if you put the 25DET head on?

Yeah, yeah, i know, RB's are made to go hard, why else would you buy a sports car? And your right, 1:100 is about right, im aware of that, i was just thinking of major stuff, burnt valves, stressed rods, etc. which i imagine wouldn't occur in RB engines until they'd been raced for a while, or dragged or whatever. And as a general rule, if you get an engine that has no mods to it, i don't think there'd be much you could do to hurt it in anyway - and lets face it, Nissan wouldn't have made a motor that you could kill easily in it's factory state, now would they? All it comes down to is that i've been stung once like that and im just paranoid now...

Well my first (and only) other car was a '86 Subabru L-Series 3spd Auto, so i don't have a heck of a lot of comparison room here.... However, i do agree with your point about torque. Lets face it, most, if not all, smaller capacity Jap engines just aren't gonna have that low-end, step-off-the-clutch-at-idle kinda torque that big bore V8's generate. Its just not possible. To get em going, you gotta have revs - lots of revs - hence the reason Early 90's V8s redline about - 5/5.5 thou? (correct me if im wrong) and an RB20DE of the same age cuts out at 7.5 ! Sure, thats all well and good once or twice a week for a bit of fun, but you can't drive it like that EVERY DAY and expect it to last more than a few years (if your lucky). So the RB30 certainly sounds like a nice sort of trade off. (assuming they don't rev as easily as the RB20/25, otherwaise its all gain) But surely ther are more mods that just "Get a short RB30 and bolt on the RB25 Head" ? Oil galleries, dowels etc - they've gotta be a little different...?

This is true - it would probably make more sense given all the mods needed to just get the half cut, but is there anyway of telling what kind of Kms the engines done? it may have been pulled out of a hoons car, which is why it was written off in the first place. Also, how compatible are the wiring harnesses, coz i've done a few engine swaps before, all but one were carbies, not EFI, and hence no computers, but the one with an ECU to negotiate cost me 5/600 for a custom wiring harness - and how different are the ECUs on N/A - Turbos?

- just quickly, who here doesn't really like their car ? anyone? didn't think so. Ok, main question is, given the cost of a 20det/25det, and the lack of any market for selling on the old 20de, is it really feasible to swap the engines out or as most people suggest, just trade the car? Each has its merits, but lets face it what we all strive to be is different - and to save some money while getting high horsepower, but we can't have it all - so why not go all out and just change the crank/conrods in the original RB20de (in my case) and bolt on the turbo to the original engine? im sure there would be some problems with that ridiculously simple comment, but would it work? here is where the call goes out to any tech minded uys who have experience with this stuff - Is it that difficult to turbo a N/A engine? ive seen a few kits for other cars that are just "bolt on" but to what extent ? and would it be that simple with the RB's, as they are a pretty solid engine to start with? Just a few thoughts, as someone suggested to me today that i should get a turbo, but im kinda attached to my baby, so what can we do?

i too have the coby extractors, and gregs right, low-mid is great, however i didn't notice that drop in top end - it still kicks at 4-5 thou, and stays on a little longer if anything. the 2litre might behave a bit differently though. I was thinking about that sucking noise under power though - has anybody stood in front of the car and revved it to see where the noise is coming from? i still have the stock airbox and intake snorkel, and the noise is still quite pronounced. Might be noise of flow through the extractors themselves rather than the intake...? ill have to have a closer listen on the weekend....

yep, nisomoman is dead on the money there... why buy Jap stuff when local is just as good? i was also wondering how you guys went about mounting CAIs. Greg, it sounds like you've done yours, howd it go? and streamer, i think we all know that a turbo is the only way to get HUGE horsepower out of anything without 'cubes' but it's not just the initial purchase cost thats a problem for most people. and besides, whats wrong with being a little different, right guys? :-) (of course i mean different, in the nicest possible way)

It's probably already been said, but i think the Extractors are probably the best bet for immediate performance gain, that is really noticable. It might only make 4/5Kw differnece, but you can access the power heaps earlier. Even on my '32 RB20, it still makes it heaps easier to launch... and it sounds really cool.. Yet to put on a better intake system, but you can hear it draw now... sounds like its sucking through a drinking straw at the moment... also, rb26dett mentioned camshafts. Anyone know who in australia stocks cams for RB series engines?

looks like you guys have sorta gone off on a tangent, but ill put mine in here anyway.. R32 GTS Type-S, RB20DE, 3" Hi-Flo, to 4" exit. (Not sure of the make, don't read japanese) ROH adrenaline Rims (8x16) on Sava Intensa 225x50xR16 (VERY good everyday tyre for the price) NB im not sure what the Type S means.... it has HICAS, Bigger Clutch than even the GTS-T's and the GTR Steering wheel.. so im buggered if i know - Any ideas? Do we get marks for the stereo in this section..? And i must agree with ryno - NO comparison between the R32 and the R33 for handling - might not be any different, but it sure as hell feels better...

warpspeed has a good point... most turbo cars are cops on the street, not just the driveablility, but stop/start as well. But im also interested in the compression side of things... how much do they have stock? 9.5-10 : 1 im lead to believe, and if so, is well above that of even a mild turbo (EXA Stock, case in point) putting out 5/7psi, and the compression on those is back at 7.5-8 : 1 ! so is it really worth trying to get it back and allow the higher boost, or would you get a simmilar result from lower boost/higher compression? like WarR32 said, just my 2c...

that raises another question too... since i missed out on the group buy you guys organised (nice idea by the way) and i assume greg has sold the set he had left over, anyone know where i can get a set of cobe's? i can't seem to track down a supplier, even in NZ, let alone WA... talk about the sticks...