Intensevil

Is it on gas mate?

I don't mind PI, best bits are Kristians monthly column and seeing all the new toys available. Pretty much every car mag that does articles on a feature car follows the same boring structure. It's just 2000 word expanded shopping cart list, boring if you ask me and the writers should put in a bit more effort.

The reason they broke is simple physics. They were stressed to within an inch of their life and then pushed far past it. Constant heating and cooling cycles on those rims while they're being subjected to hard forces will stress the hell out of them and accelerate metal fatigue. What's the load bearing for each wheel if you don't mind me asking? If you're running a 1700kg+ car and pulling more than 1g in the corners that's going to put a large strain on the wheels too, I'm too lazy to figure out the exact amount of load on each wheel but I'm sure an engineer with too much time on his hands can come up with the answer. And finally the manufacturing process comes into it, a forged wheel is stronger and as such you can use less material when making it to reduce weight yet still have enough strength to put up with the stresses of motorsport use. When a wheel is made to to similar specs using a gravity casting method of manufacturing there's no way it'll be able to take the same amount of force as the forged wheel would.

Isn't it Mana p, Manabu the guy who does the judging for d1?

Get on ausrotary and do a bit of research and you'll be amazed at what you find. Get the facts from the guys that own and run them, not from a bunch of skyline owners who only know about them through hearsay. All mazda rotarys will burn oil because they all have an oil metering pump which takes a small amount of the oil from the sump and injects it into the housing to help lubricate the motor. Some guys remove this and just mix in a 2-stroke solution every time they fill the car up. This is why it's very important to use a mineral based oil rather than a fully synthetic oil in a rotary, the oil needs to be able to burn properly and a 100% synthetic blend just won't burn and can cause issues with the engines. The 100k rebuild is a myth, there are guys in the USA on the rx7club forums who get much more than 100,000 miles out of their engines before needing a rebuild. If you treat the engine like a piston motor, hammer it before letting it heat up, let it over heat, don't do regular servicing and use the wrong parts on it, of course it's going to give you a headache. But if you treat them properly you'll have no problems what so ever. And as previously mentioned, if you are going to get it rebuilt, go to a reputable engine builder. They didn't get those reputations over night and these guys know their shit and will take care of you. I had a s1 rx7 with a 12a extend port with a webber carb and the motor never gave me any issues. I'd taken it to the track and drifted it and given it a had thrashing and never had an issue. But that's only becuase I took care of it and kept a carefull eye on my temps.

weekend bump

Bride ergo 1.5 or 1, not 100% sure. Rails are not included. Bride MO rails are needed or similar recaro rails Seat is in very good condition and isn't as tight around the arse as the newer brides so it's good for larger people. I'm asking $500 for a quick sale sms/call 0421 938 062

thanks for the heads up

Where's the kpgc10...?

Could a collapsed pressure plate or a damaged one cause this type of thing?

I've heard the main deal with insurance is just to protect urself incase the ship sinks. If that happens, everyone is liable for payment of salvage costs, paying insurance gets you out of this.

I'm planning on importing a jzx90 mark 2 sometime in the future, around December with a budget of around 10 grand to get it registered and on the road. Been looking on jspec as well as prestige motor sports, yahoo.co.jp auctions as well as various other sites to try and get an idea of the price. Finding just the cost of the vehicle is quite easy, and thanks to the high value of the Aussie dollar, easy to convert too . But it's all the other costs involved in the importing process that are doing my head in. I've done a bit of research and come up with a rough idea of some of the costs invovled Vehicle Cost ~300,000 yen Service Fee 1,100.00 Dealer Stock Fees 1,600.00 Shipping 2,000.00 Shipping Insurance 350.00 Compliance 2,500.00 Tyres 1,000.00 Registration 550.00 Stamp Duty Depends on cars value Now I think I've covered most things, but then I jump on J-spec and check out this add http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=9383 which lists the FOB price of the car at 295,000 yen but the Landed and complied cost at $9500. So obviously I'm overestimating some of the costs invovled in the importing process. So just what does the FOB price include? Is it vehicle price only or vehicle price + dealer stock fees or... ? I might be getting a bit ahead of myself here but I'd also like to know if it's worth paying the extra to put the car in a container rather than the RORO method. I've read a few threads and people are saying they have been getting damaged cars using the latter method and things stolen by the wharfies, at least with the container you know the car will arrive in an unmolested state. And finally (probably should have asked this first) Is it possible to get a jzx90 mark 2 manual on the road and registered in aus for 10 grand, or am i being overly optimistic?

Officialy it made that much, but we all know it was a fair bit more

Is this for a tatoo by any chance hahahaha

It's a GT car, not a sports car. Sports cars = mx5 rx7 rx8 skyline coupe 350z m3 corvette GT car = HSV Clubsport FPV typhoon m5 Cosmo Soarer So while it may be a fast car, it's not a drivers car, thats the difference between the two