NewKleer

got user updatable firmware going (which was one of the bigger bottlenecks with writing the firmware). so upgrading firmware with newer versions as i add functionality down the track, would be as simple as: 1) open update program 2) selecting com port of usb cable 3) selecting upgraded firmware file (which would be downloaded from site) 4) clicking "program" (then prompts you to power off device, but we dont do that) 5) and then on the device going into Options->Reset->"Reset Now", which starts transfer of updated firmware.

As per the posts immediately following, this vehicle was SOLD in 2008. Make/Model: 1988 Nissan Skyline R31 Ti Series 3 Milage: 240,000kms Transmission: Automatic Colour: Grey Location: Western Sydney RWC supplied? N/A (Has engineers certificate from original conversion) Currently registered? Yes till May 2008 Price: $1900 ono, flexible for quick sale (otherwise i have to organise somewhere to put it). Contact: Removed at OPs request, contact mods if required Comments / Modifications: RB20DET Redtop NICS engine, RB25DET turbo from R33, 3" exhaust, FMIC, Jaycar Digital Fuel Adjuster, K&N panel filter, Turbotech boost controller (ball/spring type). Now I live in unit complex, I only have room for 1 car. Have kept the car at brothers place but he's moving out so I need to sell it. Dynoed at 112KW before the FMIC, RB25DET turbo, K&N panel filter were all fitted. Auto transmission and tailshaft replaced almost a year ago. Car has faded paint, passenger door trim needs replacing (or needs to be properly put back on, though backing board is cracked which makes it a bit harder to). Few other random things...one of the rear windows doesnt wind down all the way, the boot needs a stick (supplied!) to hold it up, cigarette lighter needs to be wired up I think. Aircon needs regassing. Slight leak of auto transmission fluid due to old hose (plastic hardened a bit) Images: more pics here Edit: Revhead

for diagnostics give ecutalk a go also if you find the gauges too small in nissan datascan, as ecutalk will take up as much room as it can depending on how many gauges u select, and has full screen mode and works on widescreens also of course as someone mentioned if you only want the diagnostics then next version of ecutalk display unit will be out in a few months

sorry will only work up to R34, V35 and above use consult II (and generic obd2) rather than plain consult

will do mini update - waiting on some parts (around 3 weeks), then i can order final pcb (once minor changes made to prototype pcb, nothing major i found wrong with it) and send parts for boards to be assembled. hopefully by end of February ill have boards made and assembled, so from there is only about 30 minutes of assembly my end for each display. then whenever i get enclosures made ill be able to start a new group buy, assuming ive completed the firmware by then (if i can get user updatable firmware working, then i will be able to start shipping and new features can be added later with firmware updates...eg logging to microSD will probably be left till a future update). Peter

here's a pic showing the prototype ive made (space for usb connector bottom left, and microsd card would live under and just above where the usb connector goes). this one is for KM/metric, theres also equivalent miles/MPG/Gal one on the site if you've set to miles in the options.

good luck

yep ill let u know when theyre ready ive got the prototype boards made so now i need to write the firmware for the new features in 2.0 boards (user control of brightness/contrast, user firmware updating, trip meter screen, logging to sdcard, retrieving logs, working as a consult interface without a switch)

yep still working for me, got emails for both those replies ^

find this port near your fuse box: then its plug and play. plug it in, turn car on. no wiring to do so its portable

ill swap you for $200

yep its fine, u shouldnt have any problems (unless he has a ca18 silvia which wont work as it doesnt support consult). if you want to save $50, a combination of the free consult software alternatives (ecutalk, calumsult and tecu, dl locations here) will do all that datascan does, especially if you dont plan to use it for more than diagnostics, but datascan is the best software out if you can afford it though the cost all up at around $170 for cable + datascan is almost as much as a standalone ecutalk consult lcd display (link) which was $200 last time it was sold, and should be a new version in a couple of months for similar price. no need for a laptop etc (though should have consult interface mode so u can use it like a normal cable) whichever way you go, you wont be disappointed

the pins on both ur cars consult port, and on the greddy connector looks correct. test continuity with ecu harness and consult port and ensure they match up R34 doesnt have the clock pin, which is ok so long as the greddy uses the standard baud rate (no reason why it shouldnt). it has a chk pin but thats only needed for manual diagnosis

a very good idea was posted right above your post there ^

borrow/buy a consult cable so you can check it out for yourself (blazt.biz or plmsdevelopments.com)

will do. more than likely ill need some of the christmas holiday to finish these off (firmware wise, hopefully ill get some prototypes built before then), so probably jan/feb is more realistic

wouldnt you have sold it to the guy who offered $350?

yeh the prices for the cables are a bit much, but with only selling low volumes, if they dont make a bit of money from it then they wouldnt do it so there would be no cables (or theyd cost even more). if ur desperate you could probably checkout the ecutalk consult interface group buy thread and spam pm's to everyone that bought one asking if they still use it/if they want to sell it to you for $60 or whatever it cost.

you can buy similar cables from blazt.biz and plmsdevelopments.com

its dead if voltage isnt moving after warming up car (normally it starts 0.3v, then after about a minute will start climbing upwards, then by around 0.9v and 5 minutes later car should be at operating temp so it will start swinging back/forth between 0.1/0.9v when car under light load/cruising). normally when they are dead they sit either 0v or around 0.3v and dont move.

the oxygen sensors are narrowband, ie "off/on" so they wont tell you your AFR. for that u need to install wideband O2 sensor (in a diff spot in dump probably) and get a wideband o2 meter

the main part needed to run the display wont be available till ~12 dec (at current estimates by supplier). so i guess thats a rough aim for me to have all the hardware done and ready by. then its just a matter of how many features can be put in before a limited (or full) release. if i can get the firmware updating working fine (ie you can update firmware on unit yourself like you would with a adsl modem or computer bios) then ill be able to get them out sooner than later. ive already bought 30 lcd modules, and probably have half the parts needed for the boards already. need to finish off design of PCB and get some prototypes made, hopefully by start of next month. then need enclosures done...once enclosures are ready, final pcb to be manufactured/assembled (hopefully wont need to do most of assembly myself), and then a lot of work on the firmware (the stuff that runs the display)

cool, and no more 5 linebreaks between each line

u short it with IGN for manual bulb flashing testing. not use for consult, neither are the extra wires in middle of connector if u have them, nothing to be concerned about

no need to check with multimeter if youve got 20/20 vision and you did indeed see the CLK missing as per the image u posted before. u could check that 12v and GND are correct if u want, but im sure nissan wouldnt make a mistake as simple as that in a mass produced car