NewKleer

could possibly have AFM problem - id replace the CAS first though, particularly if ur AFM readings were ok/not spiking etc. then clear fault codes and see if afm code returns

youd probably do better with wogsrus touching something randomly and fixing it my brother handles all mechanical stuff, i handle the electronics side of things, less physical work for me that way! besides, you dont learn anything unless you do it yourself!

if it only happens around 3600rpm or whatever, but is fine at higher rpms, its less likely to be a fuel pump/injectors clogged. try disconnect the knock sensor and see if that helps?...though its hard to get to. checked that no wiring is shorting, particularly when engine moves a bit?

if this "R&R like" issue is happening when you were WOT (no dip in O2) as well as when you were playing with part throttle (dip in O2), then the dip in O2 is meaningless/doesnt help work out what it is. ie the cause is not the ecu switching to closed loop mode (particularly if it happens on powerfc, as i dont imagine if they have closed loop, that it would work exactly like the stock ecu).

well then if there was no difference to what was happening at WOT to when u didnt use WOT, that dip in the O2 sensor means nothing, so its not a symptom. ill have a look thru the logs again tomorrow...got a uni assignment due midnight tonight that i havent really started!

i would have thought AFM/RPM and TPS (tps more for the determination of cruising/load conditions for o2 feedback/closed loop mode, but also things like throttle enrichment for when throttle suddenly opens) coolant temp and other things then affect theoretical inj pulsewidth for actual because they are constant, i can only assume the time required for ecu to decide to jump into closed loop mode had expired before the final TPS jump to 4v occured - then it jumps right back out of closed loop once TPS reaches 4V. in the logs other times the TPS goes straight to 4v (ie square/immediate jump), and there is no dip in O2 im not convinced that there is actually anything "wrong" with this though, and doubt a tiny blip like that is anything like R&R/fuel cut would be at WOT. i mean u cant expect 100% engine performance when the throttle isnt fully opened... hmm, i guess the important question is then, did this R&R type stuff you noticed happen with the quick WOT (rather than the slower throttle openings?) since the logs indicate when TPS opened fully and immediately, there was no drop in O2 whatsoever (hence everything said about O2 is invalid if the issue was happening outside the places where O2 drops to 0 before u hit max TPS in those logs.

ur coldstart log starts at 11C. but if that sounds right then no problems there. what car isnt hard to start at 11C? u said u adjusted tps to 0.46v, but its showing 0.3v a lot, ie its gone down since u set it (and since it was low before, ie it must have gone down from stock setting to 0.1v before u put it back to 0.46v), its probably on the way out? either that or your expecting WOT conditions when you arent using WOT (ie ur not flooring it all the way/quickly enough), in which case there really isnt an issue there.

with car just with IGN, watch TPS voltage in consult and ensure that it responds quickly to ur WOT. in those graphs, sometimes it instantly went to WOT (4v+), other times it hung around for a while. of course if your driving style is such that you give it only enough throttle to be on the border of closed/open loop mode, then blips like that O2 are going to happen. it doesnt look that bad though so was ur temp really 12C when u recorded that log?

u should replace the knock sensor rather than use resistor fix (unless you're sure its a wiring issue and knock sensor is fine). i had 34 myself so bought one from ebay USA (theyre nearly all the same part for nissans) for around $100AU all up.

normally the VIN is all they need (assuming stock car/engine etc).

whats shown in the graph i posted is minus all the data that doesnt matter. ie AAC didnt change, VCT didnt change, all the other registers didnt, temp was constant, etc. because you can see the changes to injector pulsewidth/duty cycle/timing before O2 changes, the issue is that the ECU is changing injector output. ie, its not a fuel/ignition problem. most likely it is entering closed loop mode, though i dont know if the ecu will not use closed loop at all if O2 is disconnected. because u said uve used a stock ECU, and a powerFC, and get the same thing, its probably unlikely to be ECU related, particularly if uve used a powerfc, though without output from fcdatalogit itd be hard to confirm whether its the exact same issue. its also unlikely to be mechanical (aside from mechanical aspects of the TPS). if i had $100 and was a gambler, id put $40 on TPS, $20 on a knock sensor and $40 on "other" if the temp wasnt as cold as 12C when u had the cold start issue, then coolant temp sensor may be the cause. lower the engine temp, the more fuel goes in. so you might be running too rich if the coolant temp sensor is off.

(im just using excel...i found the points, i edited post above) after looking at that, the times it happens you either arent putting your foot all the way down, or ur TPS is very slow to react. maybe TPS needs adjusting/replacing look at the blue line: and notice the dutycycle drops off, ie the ecu is purposely putting less fuel in. my guess is that the drop seems consistent from switching from open loop to closed loop. TPS then only hits the full 4V after the ecu has decided to enter closed loop mode (ie cruising/14.7:1 AFR). what happens if u run with TPS disconnected? (im not sure if thats a limp mode condition or not)

ok i see it now, point 790, 970, 1240, etc

where abouts in the log (and which one) shows it going to 0 on boost? most of the time i see it flat at 0 is when ur rpms have dropped? maybe i missed it

pretty sure 0 = lean, which means u have a fuel problem (rather than ignition...if fuel was getting in but no ign, o2 sensor would be rich) had ur injectors tested/replaced at all? ran any additives etc? u really need to post logs though...eg is the fuel problem because the ECU is telling the injectors not to inject, or because the injectors arent injecting the fuel (even though the ecu is telling them to)? eg is there an input sensor (afm, engine temp, cas etc) that is messing up at that rpm due to vibration etc, and the ecu is responding accordingly? cant tell without the logs.

sorry theres already plenty of reserves - adding anyone else would be pointless as its extremely unlikely there will be enough for you (ie youd need 6 people to pull out)

yeah just got about 20 then

did u get any fault codes? under 3500 rpm sounds like possibly a knock sensor issue and im not up to speed on rom stuff, but if there is a secondary knock map, then maybe its detecting a bit of knock, and then using that knock map (which could have the dodgy value in it) or simply the knock protection is what ur feeling (r&r) not sure if the ecu listens to knock sensor at idle though, so you may have another issue there.

dropping to zero means really lean, ie could be fuel cut. what do injector duty cycle say as same point? post up your consult logs would help just cause the ecu is remapped doesnt mean its necessarily remapped "properly". a few stray values and the car might be cutting all fuel for given points in the map. can the rom be downloaded with consult? if so maybe u could check that out with some rom editor software and see if anything looks dodgy whereever you're having problems

yes, but you need to install it using a pc. see the part starting with "Running ECUTalk on a Pocket PC" here: http://www.ecutalk.com/ecutalk.aspx for a pocket pc, you will need to use activesync etc on your main pc to install the .net framework onto it (if its not already) thats only if you're using ecutalk on a pocket pc - on a normal laptop just follow instructions in the readme...ie install .net framework 1.1, optionally the sp1 for it, then run ecutalk exe

ill add you to the end of the reserve list, but with 4 people already on it (meaning 4 original people will have to pull out), its unlikely there will be enough for you to get one im afraid

just to confirm i wont have time to make any more cables till next weekend (ie june 2-3) id originally planned for my brother to do most of the assembly but he hasnt been able to do any, so ive been stuck with it

cool. dont forget to leave trader feedback once you've given it a whirl

or an ecu that is from a skyline made up to or before 9/89? those very early ones didnt have consult capabilities. if the ecu is originally from your mates car (and not elsewhere) and he doesnt have the consult port, thats the problem. (or check build date/month). if u have the ecu part number (23710-XXXXX) i can check if its one which should/shouldnt work.

just an update, ive been sick since saturday (unfortunately for the period i set aside to make more cables) so there may be a delay before more are available. hopefully i can get some done this weekend, we'll see