NewKleer

see this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=165668 ive added u to list there.

good question...i havent personally tried it...im sure vista will have messed up something to make it not work so u choose the com1 (or whatever) from dropdown, and then it hangs? does anything else change in between? does the display gauges button's text change to say "Connect on port: COMx..."?

nearly any usb/serial converter will work, so its likely the one u have will be fine...no special requirements are needed (in fact the ones i have are much simpler than normal ones since you only need to use 3 of the 9 pins). one with a FTDI chip will work best, but my suggestion would be to try the one you've got, and you can always get one from me later on (subject to availability) if it doesnt work. if i run out of stock, ill track down the cheapest one from elsewhere that will work (theres some on uk ebay, and on a US site) yes and yes, ive added u to the list. RB26 even support a lot more sensors than most other motors do, which is a bonus if its got the consult port it's almost certainly ok. just checked, and its 9/89 that was the transition month. i think one ecu model that i think supports consult started 8/89. which means i think all 10/89+ will support it, and only few in 9/89 and 8/89 will. the part number is the number on the ecu. if its too hard to get to (passenger kickpanel), i can always accept return (minus postage costs) within say a week if you find it doesnt work on your car. i dont think ive heard of a confirmed case where a car came from factory with a consult port, but not an ecu that supports consult, so you should be fine! its preassembled, plug and play. the only DIY bit is plugging it in and running the software

yes, just confirm the connector if ur unsure. i guess for anyone that gets one which doesnt work on their car for whatever reason (eg aftermarket ecu u didnt know about) i can always offer refund minus postage, but obviously best to check first

A31 dont support consult, unless u have an R32 ecu and wire up the port manually. or is this for use on other cars?

"Last-Updated 29/12/2006" taking a while to sell....

ur right about the position, attached to top of fuse box probably. plan to add a lot more to software over time, theres like 10 different consult software out there anyway, so no need to be worried about lack of software.

"Cable length will be 150cm" should reach passenger easily...probably even if you routed it behind the dash and exit into the glove box.

yeh it should have it no problems. usb converter will most likely be +$20 (you only need one if ur laptop doesnt have serial ports, usb isnt "better" than a normal serial port). there may be delays will the usb converters also, but ill aim to try have them ready same time.

group buy: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=165668 available in a few weeks hopefully

you can get an lcd display one for $190 (can make 2 more i think), can make it on fri or sat, will be busy till then. send me a pm if u decide u want one

that seems normal. sorry dont have any other ideas. try get the fault codes working. if you're still having trouble in a few weeks, grab one of these

r34 has voltmeter gauge? 12V when car IGN on, 13.5-14V when car is running if its less than 13.5V when car running, alternator may be dead. i dont personally know with the R34, but my guess is that the battery light staying on means the voltage isnt above 13.5V or so, as alternator isnt working right (so your battery will eventually run out if it isnt charged) ensure all fuses in engine bay are OK

i dont understand what you mean. when u turn the car on (but not start), the battery light will be on (like the other few lights that light up). or do you mean the battery light is on when the car is off?

woops, was ignition turned on? (on reds, not started)

if it has stock ecu, yes

reserving second post in case space in first runs out

ECUTalk Consult Interface (Serial) Group Buy Over - All cables are sold - there are no more. So I got sidetracked from doing uni work a couple weeks ago when yet another person asked about the now antiquated DIY Consult Kit that I made a while ago now, and I routinely get asked whether there are any decent alternatives to the more expensive consult interfaces available. The DIY kit group buy finished at the start of last year, and since then I was working on the consult lcd display, which will make a second appearance in Q3 2007, after uni is over and done with (finally!). So anyway, I made a surface mount/SMD (aka "small") circuit that will fit inside the grey DB9 serial connector (no box in cable or any other adaptors). Will come with proper consult plug. Check out the pics at the top of this post for a quick "mockup" cable I made. Cable length will be 200cm. Plugs into serial port (9 pin male) on your laptop (or serial sync cable + null modem adaptor for Pocket PC). I will have limited usb/serial converters available, +$20. What is Consult?: Consult is a dianostic protocol in Nissan cars produced in the 90s that have a grey, 14 pin diagnostic connector (usually near fusebox, see pic below). Features include ability to read sensor values (afm, rpm, speed, coolant, o2, etc), trouble codes and active tests (eg shutting cylinder off), depending on which software you use. It should work on: R32 (~11/89+, find your 23710-xxxxx part number and i can confirm for you if you have 89 model), R33, R34, Z32, S13 (SR20 only), S14, S15, N14, N15. It will work on standard Nissan ECUs only, not aftermarket computers. No, it won't work on PowerFC (google fc datalogit). Should work fine with piggyback computers and remapped ECUs. Anyone with engine conversions should ensure the consult plug is there and connected properly. You can't change or remap your ECU via consult! You might read the initial ROM contents with consult, but thats about all it has to do with remapping (aside from monitoring/diagnosing issues with a remapped ecu). Software - will NOT be provided on a cd - can be download from here: ECUTalk - made by yours truly. Screenshots here. Works on laptop/pc and Pocket PC! Requires .NET Framework 1.1 (.NET Compact Framework 1.0 for Pocket PC). Read/clear fault codes, log sensors, view gauges. Has additional instant fuel economy L/100KM (or MPG) "sensor". I'm sure its all on the website. TECU - use for active tests Calumsult - use for rom dumping, but use this .exe placed in same dir after you install. Scheduling: Monday, May 14 is the expected start of availability. I won't take payment up front, but would ask you dont ask people to register interest who have no intention of going through with it, just to boost the numbers. I only do this as a hobby, a way for me to learn new things. The interfaces require minor assembly, so they'll be sold from first to last as determined by the order on the list - it may take a few weeks to get them all done. The only exception to this is for people getting a usb/serial adaptor who may get theirs a bit later if usb/serial adaptor holds things up. As interfaces become available, people in turn will be asked to make payment. If you dont do so within a reasonable period, you will be placed at the end, and in my naughty book! If you are a girl and want to pull out, just tell me so I dont waste any more time than need be. Cost: If you've donated to SAU: $55 including postage If you haven't donated: $60 including postage (I'll donate $2 for each of these to SAU, at the end) +$20 usb/serial converter Express post: $3 extra, next day delivery if ur inside express post network, otherwise normally 2 days. Standard post is almost certainly next day for those in Sydney metro, so you needn't bother with this unless you think the worst of auspost! Paypal: $2 extra (but instant transfer, can pay with credit card via this link you dont have an account). Payment via Bank Deposit normally clears the next day if payment made before 4pm the day before, depending on your bank. If you deposit in a St George branch (my bank), it will arrive instantly. Sent lanky71 Wed 16 May heller44 Fri 18 May evesdropping (+usb) Mon 21 May RJ45 Tues 22 May stingray Wed 6 June Toasty (+usb) Wed 6 June Kinks Fri 8 June kristafa Fri 8 June GTI16v (+usb) Tues 12 June The Milf Guy (+usb) Wed 27 June mr moo Fri 29 June Acolyte Fri 13 July vitz_n1 (+usb) Mon 23 July whiter31gxe (+usb) Mon 23 July Donated $24 on 10/08/2007 for the 12 people who bought a cable who hadn't donated. The connector you will find in your car, and couple pics of ecutalk software:

do u need something specific? what do u need wiring diagram for, what are u trying to do?

cant remember if the ECU will have an LED on it (older ecu's do). thats much harder to do anyway. so yeah, take the wire out after 2 seconds (or after it starts flashing). it wont do any damage (just get the right pins, theyre the ones on the flat side of connector)

sorry, thats the consult port, its located in the fuse box area (attached to the top/bottom of fuse box probably). short = get a paper clip and connect the two pins (push ends of paper clip into the connector at those positions) then watch the light on the dash flashing, and work out the fault code if any from number of long/short flashes.

so the starter motor is working fine, engine will crank over but not start? "when i check, the boost controller cable came off, the positive and neg, and option.." are u saying the wires came loose? check the fuses in the engine bay if there are any? fusable link/loop of wire ones? short 12Vign and Check for 2 seconds, until engine light starts blinking. count long blinks then short blinks. 5 long, 5 short = all OK. anything else is an error code for some sensor fault

have you checked all your fuses? including the big ones in the engine bay? what electronic parts work? headlights, fans, parker lights, internal lights, horn, etc? does engine turn over? if u dont have a multimeter, you should probably get one

i agree that there needs to be a section for things that cover more than one of the current ones. engine management, diagnostics, consult, engine sensors, piggybacks, and so on - no topic in any of these areas belongs in any specific forum, but most often they are created in the forced induction simply because its more popular, not because its the most appropriate place to create the thread. the mechanical sides of things are covered well, and the na/turbo split works fine there, but not for the non-mechanical side of things.

will do. should have all parts (to do final circuit testing) by 16-18 april, then will give the go ahead for pcb manufacture/assembly.