NewKleer

was talking about consult2 machine, not nistune or any other pc software - if its a function available when connected to the aircon control unit via proper consult machine, then may be possible in software. also check obd scantech as from memory it might have aircon stuff. can download it from ecutalk consult cable page

not sure what u can do with consult in terms of aircon control - anyone ever looked at a car with aircon with consult2? can you actually control it like you can with the controls on the unit itself?

thanks. yeah i know, a bit weird - never had it with any other sold threads from old cars in past (although have generally removed contact details to prevent it)

this 'report to edit thread' isn't working too well, have reported a thread of mine (this) a few times to remove the phone/email listed over a few months (who knows why, but ive been getting random calls from people who cant read that the car is sold...), and it hasnt been done. is there some way that these reports are handled that prevents them falling through the cracks?

ipaq, a windows mobile pocket pc. something with the 22pin connector (not new ones with just mini usb). bigcol on aus300zx had a thread with his installation but all the pictures are down. here's another. http://www.ecutalk.com/compatibility.aspx

spend that money on an ipaq/cables and you've got a 24/7 setup. or even better, get an ECUTalk LCD display!

as far as im aware, no FTDI drivers for android? once there are, assuming android devices have USB host, and assuming mono for android works well (in early stages - http://tirania.org/blog/archive/2011/Jan-04.html) then ECUTalk v1.4.0 out soon, will have a fair few changes which will improve chances of it working with mono. but FTDI would be the first hurdle - http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm email FTDI if you want to add an extra request for android drivers. and perhaps google FTDI android drivers and see what's doing. i think some people are trying to port drivers to android or something.

looks like its time for the bigger AFM, and proper tune with nistune (or normal remap, whatever). isnt it normally recommended u go Z32 AFM? (from memory thats what brother did with his - something bigger than RB25 AFM anyway). cause its going to be hard to work out any issues due to not having a proper tune and AFM for the bigger capacity, from any legitimate problems unrelated to that.

should have used ecutalk for the logs, scantech logs dont include time and hard to graph the on/off sensors and need to be able to tell us when in the log its 'coughing' e.g. here you have 3 goes at the accelerator (it stays >750rpm all the time) and then a pause, and in this time the rpm drops around 600s, and then another couple of bigger stabs (the second goes pretty high on the MAF for no load...its a RB25DET maf right?). so is this coughing in between those stabs where its doing it for a while? anyway, if you graph it, notice how your AAC is close to 100 - this means it has no room to let more air in to keep idle higher. so your idle screw might be set too low, or you might have dirty AAC. try the base idle mode, its in free conzult if not in scantech, make sure engine warmed up fully, and see how the engine idles once u start the base idle/timing mode - if at a low RPM (or immediately stalls) then idle screw likely set too low.

ECUTalk v1.3.5 final has been released (along with beta 7 before it), which mainly just adds support for Active Suspension control unit (on Q45 Infiniti and similar) amongst other minor changes: ECUTalk v1.3.5 final - Changes from v1.3.5 beta6 below: #113 Make log files .csv rather than .txt #114 Provide minimum log update functionality #115 Attempt ED connection if EF fails #116 Add support for Active Suspension control unit #117 Fix 'Code 55' for Diesel to say 'No Errors Detected' #118 Remove Flush Wait Time option (still in .ini) #119 Support unlisted serial port names via ini file #120 Add dec points to Height sensor (inches)/MPG ECUTalk v1.3.5 can be downloaded from here.

turn on the 'log' checkbox in ecutalk then view the gauges etc as normal and it will log a file to same place as the ecutalk exe. then zip that and upload it as an attachment in your post.

japan didnt have same obd2 requirements so there are some cars with obd2 port and consult2 functionality but no actual obd2 functionality. particularly for cars delivered only to japan/australia/middle east etc without any obd2 requirements.

EGT always reads 4.98v on nearly all cars ive seen, im not even sure they did this EGT sensor right in the consult unit (i.e. it might not even be a voltage reading by a mis-interpreted switch status, e.g. EGT is 'not hot' or 'too hot'). the 100% and 97% isnt anything to worry about.

the battery is already a massive capacitor. adding this will do nothing. its nothing more than a placebo. i can sell you a cheaper placebo than that.

yes you can http://www.ecutalk.com/images/consult_car.jpg dont need check, only rx/tx/clk, and 12v ignition switched source if ur r32 was one of the earlier 89 models it doesnt have consult from factory.

temp sensor usually code 13

its RS232, like all the chinese ones. e.g. this. no usb. if like most laptops you dont have rs232, and insist on going for one of these ones, make sure you get a FTDI chipped usb/serial converter (these are the chips used in the proper USB ecutalk/blazt/plms consult cables), which wont be cheap, but will save the bluescreens.

free conzult or maybe obd scantech, will have the base idle mode. its the only one available in free conzult so hard to miss. can download either from ecutalk consult cable page

yes you should only adjust the cas when in 'base idle/timing mode' via consult (or similar manual method) which would lock timing at its static value. that consult said 5 deg (should be 15?) means it wasnt in this mode. the consult output for timing is the ecu's calculated value assuming timing is set correctly with a timing light - the ECU has no way of 'reading' the timing, otherwise it wouldnt allow you to adjust it via the cas...

yeah check the things with consult mentioned in other thread, e.g. with it cold idle (good) and then warm idle (when bad): AAC, TPS, Closed Throttle Switch, Coolant Temp, Ignition Timing, RPM.

well 650rpm is standard idle isnt it? so at 700rpm you're higher than standard idle (perhaps due to idle screw too high), so sounds like its pulling timing. i wouldnt have thought simply lower timing is cause of issue since heaps and heaps of cars run less than their static timing at idle, and not many have missing or anything. presumably you get it back at 15+ or whatever if you open throttle slightly? (or normal driving). what about when u shift into gear (clutch still in). from memory i think this raises idle on my car as it goes back to 15 deg (presumably ready for take off etc), rather than 5-10. i would have thought the issues would be more mechanical, i.e. spark plugs/coil packs etc as seems to be the problem with all skylines? not sure.

looks good to me, almost same as my pulsar - are you still having rough idle?

if the camp connects to the ECU via consult port to get information, and you dont have the standard ECU, it wont be able to get that info. whether it can still get power from elsewhere and other readings (like mechanical ones it doesnt get from the ecu), maybe

if car is idling higher than target rpm then the lower reported timing is likely the ECU trying to lower the timing to reduce rpm. try turning idle screw down, and maybe once the ECU is 'happy', timing goes back up to normal. the ecu's reported timing is assuming the timing is correctly set with a timing light, it has no way to know actual timing, so changing the cas will not change what the ECU is reporting, cause its an 'output' value only.

mine doesnt seem to go under about 20, but other people have said theirs will come down to like 10 or 16. as long as its south of 30 is usually sufficient - too high and can result in stalling and other issues. however, if the ECU is pulling timing, then its likely that its too low currently all else being equal/OK (i.e. it cant close the AAC any more to lower idle, so has to drop timing) so you might have to wind the idle screw until the AAC value starts to move UP.