NewKleer

http://www.ecutalk.com/compatibility.aspx theres a list of those pda's already tried/tested. most pda's will have a serial port capabilities (but practically none ship with serial sync cables anymore). if you dont already have a pda but want to get one, here's a few tips: 1) work out how much you want to spend: less than $100 then you're probably stuck with a pocket pc 2000/2002 device. advantage here is it may come with a serial sync cable already. performance may not be the best more than $100, try get the cheapest windows mobile 2003 (aka pocket pc 2003) pda you can find that supports a serial port. eg rz1710. these will perform better than 2000/2002 due to having .net compact framework in ROM 2) check this link: zing for serial sync cables - most likely if a serial sync cable is available, then the pda supports serial port. obviously you need a pocket pc/windows mobile - a palm will be useless 3) generally, if the pda has a mini-usb connection only, it wont have serial port capabilities so dont bother. a serial sync cable is the old method of hooking up your PDA to your PC to sync with it (rather than USB). when using the cable, the PDA acts as a "device" to the PC. however, when you want to use the PDA as the "pc" and hook a device up to it (ie, a consult interface), then you need to switch over the send/receive wires, which is what a null modem adaptor does. here's an example: http://www.expansys.com.au/p.aspx?i=121390

i can see two reasons: 1) your PDA most likely does not have USB host capabilities (ie, its not able to have usb devices connect to it - its only able to act as a usb device to a PC) 2) the current usb blazt cable is based off a usb/serial converter which has no virtual com port drivers for windows ce (ie pocket pc/windows mobile)

ECUTalk v1.3.2 Released - http://www.ecutalk.com This version fixes a few bugs and has some pretty big performance improvements. Users of v1.3 and v1.3.1 should update to this version. v.1.3.1 added a MPG sensor for Imperial users (and an option to switch between Imperial/Metric sensors). 1) Fixed issue in v1.3 and v1.3.1 which meant data packets weren't being dropped when CPU couldn't keep up 2) Increased performance of gauge drawing by ~250% (on my PPC, time to draw a gauge went from ~30ms down to around ~12ms). 3) Changed code to always draw gauges (even if data hasnt changed) in order to result in consistent amount of packets being logged per second. 4) Added option to specify minimum gauge update speed - higher value means more packets are logged due to less gauge updates (and hence more time for logging). Eg on my 568 Jornada PocketPC 2002, 10ms = ~5 packets logged/second, whereas 1000ms = close to full 50 packets). The setting ignored when not logging (it will just update as quickly as possible). 5) Improved consult streaming to allow more data to be read in and processed (rather than lost). Probably the best program for data logging due to the sheer amount of data able to be read in. On my desktop PC, setting minimum gauge refresh to 0ms (ie never skip a gauge redraw, hence uses most CPU), can log 35 packets/second of all sensors. Setting minimum refresh to just 50ms gives the full 50 packets/second. I compared this to Nissan Datascan, which can only log 16 packets/second on the same PC (and thats without gauges shown at all) with the same sensors. 6) Changed options controls to dropdowns rather than textboxes (i didnt realise id disabled the use of the soft input panel on PPC, so you couldnt change settings). If you want to enter a value other than shown, edit the .ini file. 7) Fixed logging time output, both to add in the missing leading zeros (eg it would show 7:5:7 for 7:05:07), and also added in a interpolated millisecond value for PPC users (which doesnt have a millisecond capability in standard time object). 8) Minor changes to individual sensors to better display on gauges, and slight changes to change config (units shown next to sensor rather than down bottom as often the units would overlap gauge). 9) Added a hidden option for CarPC users with frontends (eg Centrafuse) to manually edit .ini file to set custom top/bottom/left/right co-ordinates for full-screen mode. Example: FullScreenBounds_L|T|R|B:10|20|1000|900. Setting all to 0 will use default method.

no, only nissan ecu's are consult capable. (otherwise thered be patent/copyright issues for apexi)

ECUTalk v1.3 Released - http://www.ecutalk.com 1) Added ability to log sensors without showing them on gauges (when logging is enabled, checkboxes have a greyed out checkstate, indicated logging only) 2) Logging changed so it logs all packets (only gauges will drop packets/not update when cpu is falling behind, but all packets will be logged) 3) Colour setup for gauges added. Hard bit for you is coming up with a colour theme that looks ok! 4) Added Instant Fuel Economy Sensor - requires RPM, Injector and Speed kph selected to work 5) Changed DutyCycle/RH Sensors to calculate values from RPM and Injector/RH sensors (therefore requires them to be logged at least to work) 6) Fixed Timestamps when milliseconds are less than 100 (3 digits). Previously they would not have leading zeroes 7) Simplified gauges such that they will only display values within their range (however, logging will show the calculated value) and will no longer auto change their range to suit the values (as occasionally a weird value may be read which causes a unco gauge to be drawn). 8) Added an option to allow the full-screen mode to only use the "working area" of the screen. Eg, it wont cover taskbar in a normal windows desktop, and for carpc users with special frontends, it may mean gauges display properly if running ECUTalk from within your frontend. 9) Improved the saving of settings to .ini file. Note that the order of items in this .ini file matters - their names (what is shown before the ":") does not. Eg autoconnect, logging, selected sensors, working area option, injector size, gauge colours, etc are all stored in here. 10) Removed EGT sensor (it's useless, only ever reads 4.98v) See screenshots below to better understand difference between selecting sensors for gauges (batt, duty, econ, temp) which you check once, and for logging (rpm, injector, speed) which are checked a second time to make them grey. Also shown is how you can set the colour of the gauges yourself.

thats what i was gonna say. if they do it right, people will just move to the new lancer from the wrx. bad move by subaru (unless the sti will come down in price)

it needs the stock ecu. the consult gets data from the ecu, which reads it from the sensors (make sense to do that, since the ecu needs to read data from sensors to run the engine). therefore non-nissan ecu's wont support consult (copyright, patents, etc) check out mp3car.com forums for carpc setups. if u get a carpc with usb only, then get a usb consult interface, otherwise a serial one (blazt.biz at the moment, since im not making any right now). or get a serial then a serial/usb adaptor would be more flexible, eg if u changed your mind in future and wanted to hook up a pocket pc instead (which usb wont work for). a carpc setup with consult should be no diff from a normal laptop etc running consult software - u just need the cable, software and stock ecu (remap, piggyback etc ok) some threads on ns.com on carpc setups: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=204411 http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=193117 http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=187156

any cop travels behind u long enough to run ur plates will figure out you dont have a license...much more riskier than you think. most of the time they come up with nothing (for the average car) so have no need to pull you over i only had to travel 4km to RTA to get rego renewed after it ran out, and cops picked up that i was out of rego after about 20s of following me (luckily i was going to rta right then to get rego renewed, which is ok)...thats the first time ive been pulled over in years

yeh theyre all gone now - the last 5 took 5 weeks to sell, so no one has any excuses for missing out in daylight, 95% of the light for viewing display comes from natural light - the LED is useless. making it twice as bright will only improve daytime viewing by about 5%...i think maybe you want to angle the display more towards the driver

tip #69 - dont assume a load point listing from someone elses car will be perfect for yours. same reason you dont wear your sisters clothes (well one of the reasons) is that they wont always be a perfect fit.

ive decided to hold off on the next batch till after i finish uni (ie july this year). going to spend a bit of time on the ecutalk software and maybe do a batch of plain consult interfaces before then. wont really have enough spare time to doing another lot before then (esp the risk of money issues if they dont sell quick enough and given im not at work full time while uni is on, dont want to risk anything) im still hoping to get some time to add the trip meter screen ive mentioned randomly (so if i get that done existing users can upgrade to that version)

sounds like it hasnt been calibrated right?

u mean newer as in the car is newer? will probably not make much diff, and what i said before also may not apply for imports. without having a known correct standard to measure against, the real answer as to which is more accurate is "who knows?"

itd wouldnt be hard to have them stored in memory permanently, but then you would have to reset them to know if the peak value u got was from this time or not - for me it was much more useful to have it only for the current session i assume that the speed km readings would be more accurate than speedo (i think by law speedos cant read lower than actual, so most of them read too high). the fact odo trip/distance in time trials are so close means that speed read by consult must be as accurate as odo input, which means if there is still a difference, then its solely speedo gauge thats not correct.

if i do another lot the displays will be dimmer anyway (to reduce power and make them slightly less bright), but itd be too hard to put a dimmer on when it would serve little purpose and only add to the cost

thats right, peak values are just since its been turned on time trial times, option settings are stored when unit is off

3 left, be good for a christmas present

still waiting on feedback from 12 months ago for the consult interface you mean easily over 150! (youve only given out a couple more than youve got). compare that to other top sellers who're lucky to have 50% of what they give, thats the real tradgedy of this story!

from side-on the back looks a bit like a soarer the front looks quite good, sometime i cant put my finger on...kinda aston martin'y overall looks much better than v35

i may have a couple of left over enclosures (ones that didnt closer perfectly for one reason or another) that i can probably fix u up with whenever i do next upgrade. just tape sides with electrical tape for time being (depending how bad it is). it's the front lips bent out a bit?

http://www.ecutalk.com/images/consult_car.jpg http://www.ne.jp/asahi/tomosang/skyline/mainte/wire.htm the wiring link, even though in japanese, shows the (RX), (TX) etc in brackets for consult port. theres probably better ones around. IGN and GND dont have to be connected to ECU, just any IGN switched power supply (ecu is easiest) ive got a car side consult plug if you need one ($16 posted)

linked from other forums

sounds like it was only tuned up to what was reachable on the day it was tuned? - you probably want to fill in the remaining ones with a guess/continuation of the last cells number (adjusting it up/down for whichever is lower boost if u want to be sure)

i cant tell you if a short circuit or incorrect circuit design is causing it, but u can replace that resistor with either 2 resistors of the same kind (ie same W rating) in parallel, with double the value (which then brings it back to original value, but it can handle twice the Watts), or a single wirewound resistor of same value. 2 resistors is better as it will hopefully still blow if u have some issue (a wirewound would cause something else to blow instead) this should only be done if the cause of the resistor blowing is it simply cant handle the current - i havent had any issues with mine (used hc twice to tune dfa)

ur ecu is from an a31 cefiro - they dont support consult. youll need an r32 ecu. dont get any of these (i think the rest should be ok): 23710-04U00 23710-04U10 23710-04U11 thats on assumption a31 motor can work with r32 without any changes, if u have an a31 motor