NewKleer

CLK is correct (~5V @ 50% dutycycle = 2.5v) transmit from ECU (ie, TX on ecu pinout) should measure 0->5v (somewhere in between) when connected receive from ECU (RX on ecu pinout) should measure 0->12v roughly, depending on whether pc is transmitting or not. what is ur ECU serial number? (23710-xxxxx). early R32 ecu's (until ~9/89) didnt have consult capabilities.

yeh i might be able to add that to it. is there a reason u need to reset the closed loop running thing regularly?

its simple, both are correct. the refridgerant is continually compressed into a liquid (results in heat in the hot coils) and then expanded to a gas in the cold bit (latent heat of vaporisation helps add to the coldness as it "takes in" more heat from surrounds to change liquid to gas, hence reducing temp), or something along those lines the latent heat of vapourisation explains why when water gets to 100C, it doesnt suddenly explode into a gas all at once (or change to a gas more quickly than it does) - it needs more heat input before it has enough energy to change states but for something thats a liquid the entire time at different pressures, the difference in heat isnt all that great (ud need a reasonably high pressure fuel system for it to be an issue, nothing that production cars have)

no problems. only a few more left in this lot

theres a lot of odds and ends u can change with a remap (such as speed limiter) that interceptor cant. also with an interceptor, its moreso tricking the ecu into thinking its at a different load point, which doesnt suit all circumstances - eg partial throttle load, high load/low rpm, low load/high rpm, etc (though for most purposes this isnt noticable). this also means the ecu is looking at a different part of the timing map, and hence your car may be more likely to ping (or run too retarded) at a given point in map.

i know a cover up when i see one!

uve got a consult interface right? datalog from as soon as u start car and post here. does it make a difference if u allow fuel pump to prime longer (leave car on ign on/reds for a few seconds before cranking)? and do what i said in previous post

got a consult plug if u still need one, $15 incl postage

check out fault codes, water temp, and AAC values with consult. AAC should open enough to hold a higher idle on cold startup

have u tried nissan datascan? $25-30 and does map tracing, how accurate it is, i dont know.

u dont need the lcd display i make, though it does come with a consult interface (but u cant have both it and consult interface working at same time - have to flick a switch between em). plmsdevelopments.com or blazt.biz will get you a standalone interface for ~110 or so (if u go with plms, ask them price without datascan software, as u can use ecutalk for free). i might get another batch of consult interfaces done at some stage, but nothing definite (i could probably get assembled ones made for ~70$) ceedub - try using 12 rather than 16 gauges, will use screen better i think

sorry id need to look for something local to make sure i get right one

location? pics? (i need to replace auto in r31 with rb20det redtop, no idea what gearbox is in it atm, but local r31 box doesnt match)

batt: <12 car not on, ~14v running eco: 99.9 (infinite) when car not moving, 20->99 under acceleration, <20 cruising (assuming set up in options) inj: ~5-10% on cold warmup, 0-3% normal idle, 3-100% depending on load. 100% peak doesnt necessarily mean your injectors have maxxed out, you need to hop on a dyno to work out this timing: anything thats BTDC, big jumps down from like 30 to 3/5 under load may indicate pinging/det (logging will help here). if timing jumps around from ~3 to 15 or so at idle, your closed TPS switch may not be staying shut properly. aac - auxiliary air control, lets air into engine bypassing throttle, will be high (~90) on startup/AC on, but should fall to around 20-40 when running normally o2: 0.3v till sensor warms up (30s), then swinging between 0.1->0.9v and back continually when cruising. from memory, 1v = rich, 0v = lean. on decel/engine breaking will probably go lean, and rich on acceleration engine temp: "warmup" time typically to around 60-65C mark, then normal operation. be worried if it gets close to 100, but in low/mid 90s is generally fine. AFM: generally corresponds to load of engine, 0.5v when not running, 1.0-1.2 idle (after warmup), if this hits 5v then you're probably getting close to peak power for current AFM (should determine this on a dyno). tps: ~0.5v closed, ~4.5v WOT, and linear in between (roughly)

i thought most studies on fuel atomization vs temperature show low fuel temps = not so good. perhaps this is the use of the fuel temp sender on 300zx and/or GTR's, in order to richen injector pulsewidth when the fuel is too cold thus if low fuel temps arent good: 1) no 2) no 3) 1 and 2 4) unlikely due to 1 and 2

none of them contain the number 6

1,2,3,4,5,7,8,9,10,15,18,21,22,27,28,29,30,37,38,41,42,43,44,45,47,48,50,53,55 1 theyre at the top of this page http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...php?act=Members give us a hint

make a stand! before joining a group buy, check out the organisers trader ratings and see if theyve given more/same as theyve received (maybe that should be worded a bit differently...). at least that way you'll have an idea some people simply dont know about it/dont remember, so it doesnt hurt to ask/give them a link to ur trader rating page

ill contact remaining people by this weekend once uni project is over (due friday)

u want to fix that. check continuity of wires, check that the voltage at plug changes as u open throttle, etc. if u dont know what to do, then take it to an auto elec

ive got about 10 of the 50 remaining, which will be taken by the remaining people on the list (on here and pga). do u want me to add u to the list? (u might get in if people are too slow/dont want one). otherwise next batch will be around january

R32 FSM, EN-396 says knock sensor fault code is only indicating disconnectiong/short circuit (or relating circuit issue). it makes no mention of the engine registering a knock resulting in a fault code. maybe your sensor and/or wiring whenever you tested it was a bit iffy? EN-297 says the same thing for the R33 FSM (that the fault code indicates "disconnection or short circuit in the knock sensor") likewise for EC-51 in S14 FSM, and S15 FSM says similar things as S14 one

rb20de or rb20det box?

i think the only fault code the ecu logs is if the knock sensor circuit isnt correct, not that its detecting knock over a certain level (code 34). some consult software like nissan datascan incorrectly reports it as simply "knock sensor" and most people interpret this as being that the ecu recorded a knock

if u can post a datalog of driving around (with a bit of full throttle/load) that might show a bit. basically youd be looking as to whether ignition timing is retarded more than it should be (i think this is the standard anti-knock protection?) i also have code 34 on my sr20det, which seems to be common. u can trick the ECU into thinking its ok with some resistor mod i think