NewKleer

sorry couldnt get a consult plug, no more at local wreckers im sure u will be able to find one, just need a place that has n14 pulsars (or micra/maximas), most of them will still have the consult plug there

is that cause AAC is normally open (and therefore ull get a really high idle is disconnected?)

the start count is the number of times engine has started since it last saw the code. 0 means its a current issue. start count isnt the number of times the ecu has seen the code

plmsdevelopments.com, blazt.biz, or ebay

sent u a pm if ur still after this

yeh, most people are getting the standard 1.5m now (easier for me to make them to this length in advance than needing to wait till i get cable lengths from people on order) Haysey and TurboX, since you're still on v0.2, u can upgrade to latest if u want. it fixes any of these issues if they're a problem 1) if ur TPS is showing >10 or <100 at closed/WOT 2) not showing 2nd injector duty cycle on GTR/300ZX 3) changing options doesnt clear peak values 4) distance measuring jumps to 99999.9m once you pass 9999.9m 5) Random spikes/communication errors can make peak values read very high. Eg temperature reading max (of 205C). 6) Sometimes unit doesn't "turn on" due to volts dropping too low on starting car. i imagine though ill add more features early next year, so u could wait till then.

u have a consult interface already? u dont have to buy software (unless ur after specific software) as theres plenty of free ones out there: http://www.ecutalk.com/ http://eccs.hybridka.com/viewtopic.php?t=263 http://web.utk.edu/~cjohns32/calumsult/

ive now contacted (on sau and pga combined) enough people to cover the remaining of the 50 displays. however as some people have taken a week or two to respond, i assuming not everyone is either going to eventually respond at all, or will pull out for whatever reason. regardless, im still going to be contacting more people, so for each additional person i do contact from now on, whoever is slowest of the original people to respond will obviously miss out. i will most likely do a second batch in december or sometime next year, but nothing is certain (maybe i wont have time to organise anymore), except that if i do the price would almost certainly rise (as id have to get them assembled elsewhere, i wont have time to do all assembly myself). so if you do want one and have been contacted, try not to be too slack about it (i dont mind if it takes a week or two for you to get the money, but just keep me informed so i do have an idea whats going on). though having said that, people on SAU have been much better than those on PGA (half of them have pulled out/cant afford it, or never get back to me about it...) Peter

it says 90kph or whatever on the second one - no way ur only going 90 at 3rd gear redline u could be getting a decent figure for many reasons: 1) dyno not calibrated right 2) correction factors (i assume this is what cause the 200+ kw readings) not right (they might not be right for any of your runs) - ie shootout mode or whatever mode that takes into account temperature and other things to adjust your readings, might not be correct 3) leaning out a lot giving you more power but potentially getting close to killing ur engine (no way to know without AFR) 4) might be running higher boost than you think (no way to know without boost reading, although assuming you have a boost gauge you should have a good idea) make sure when u go back, for whatever ur final run is, get at least power vs AFR, and torque vs boost (or whatever combination of those on 2 graphs), and find out if its been calibrated right i havent been to dynos that often, so many someone else can explain a bit more

the second one looks like its done in 2nd gear (yet it says 3rd gear). they didnt give u power vs AFR or boost or anything?

often the small stock IC wont be able to cool down the hot turbo air enough at higher load/rpm, so your FMIC may be helping there. though the figure does sound a tad high for just a fmic and exhaust (and filter, but that probably makes stuff all difference)?

sounds good for stock boost. will be able to tell more from dyno graph

do u have any local wreckers with n14 pulsars for the consult plug? i might pop down to mine and see if i can find any

i thought only vtec can let you go off the tacho? have i been misinformed?

anyone sense a case of multiple personality disorder going on here?

i think u want to use pins 49(ign) and 50(gnd) or pins 59(ign)/60(gnd) i think 45 is for the ecu to know ign is turned on, rather than being an IGN on power source. aside from that sounds good

u only need check wire if u want to use it to check the fault codes by flashes on the check engine light (or something). i wouldnt bother if ur aiming to use proper consult stuff, it wont matter for the consult connector, find a wrecker that has N14 pulsar will be the best bet.

good and bad news regarding the next lot (after this first 50 which is more than half way thru). the current lcd supplier (-20 to +70 deg, 50deg above, 60deg below, 40 left/right, green/yellow, pretty much best specs ive come across) wont have stock again till end of december. however, crystalfontz has added another colour, a white lcd, to their range (due in a month or so). its same wide temp (-20 to +70, but viewing angles i think are 15 above, 80 below, and 30 left/right). in a car application, if anything you would be viewing from above rather than below, so this may mean the display is a bit harder to see if u mount it really low, such as bottom DIN pocket or something. steering column mount would be fine. so worth thinking about whether youd be interested in this lcd (it "should" fit into enclosure etc fine) for those who miss out on the first lot. cost will probably be +$10 or $15. and it might mean i can get some of the next batch done in early december.

the self-learning is mainly for the cruise conditions rather than open loop/power conditions you generally tune the DFA for. so i think, so long as you arent trying to change cruise condition operation (which wants the 14.7 or whatever ecu targets), any self-learning things shouldnt be too much of a interference. might be worth datalogging the self learn alpha/base data from consult, but im not sure what the values represent

this is what the car's connector should be wired up as:

will have a shot at getting the majority of the remaining 20 or so done this/next weekend (edit: the circuit boards are put together, but cabling etc still needs to be done)...just waiting for a few parts to arrive, hopefully next week..then i can probably ask half of the remaining people on list for orders, and first in best dressed if u dont need custom device id, and default cable length is fine, then i can get ur display done much quicker as ill make roughly half of them to this default config

not having pictures that do it justice also helps keep the first batch to those who would want it even if it was sticky taped together...though at some point i should really take some better pictures (or someone who's got one can volunteer as i dont have my own digital camera) for those who need to see it looks sexy before they get it

what about this? http://eccs.hybridka.com/viewtopic.php?t=105

ok nps, ill stick u on end of list and ask u again for the second batch in a few months see if anything has changed then

on that note, i picked up a h2210 on ebay for $40 (though it has nearly all non-essential bits missing and bluetack/tape needed to hold battery in, but it works!) rz1710 ipaqs can be found a bit over 100$, might be a reasonable upgrade