-
Posts
1,264 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
100%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Everything posted by NewKleer
-
Ecutalk - Standard & Pocket Pc Consult Software
NewKleer replied to NewKleer's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
well youll have your lcd display soon if u still want one, better than a fiddly palm -
Ecutalk - Standard & Pocket Pc Consult Software
NewKleer replied to NewKleer's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
nah, you'll need a pocket pc. palms are the poor mans pocket pc i think theres some software written for a palm out there somewhere called "palmz" this guy wrote it: http://ecu2.forumwise.com/profile.php?mode...ofile&u=440 -
Ecutalk - Standard & Pocket Pc Consult Software
NewKleer replied to NewKleer's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
ECUTalk v1.2 - http://www.ecutalk.com/ Combined Standard and Pocket PC versions into the single unified executable (single .exe also), based off the last Pocket PC release. Added auto connect back in - it will connect on the given com port, select the sensors, and view gauges fullscreen on startup (after its set up). Added in injector duty cycle % sensors, and added MPH and degrees F sensors (for speed/temp). Left: Running on PC/Laptop Right: Running on Pocket PC More screenshots: http://www.ecutalk.com/screenshots.aspx -
sure am! and make sure u check your pm if u want a display, its been almost 2 weeks since i contacted you first of all, the final release of the device is completed - so nothing will change in next few months or however long i spend catching up making the devices for people who want one. secondly, its too late for changes to the enclosure to accomodate LED's. something visual isnt the best anyway, given you aren't watching it when you have eyes on the road. now, in the future once everyone who wants one has one, the next step is working out what to add. we've already got some possibilities: 1) reading k-type thermocouples 2) logging to SD/MMC card 3) alerts the alerts i envisaged as using some kind of buzzer, and the rest as you described (eg if rev >= x, temp >= y, etc). not sure how ud account for the different types of alerts, perhaps you would have a single buzzer then the screen would show the value of the sensor which is triggaring the alert? *** CAS: 8125 RPM *** *** Alert Level: 8000 RPM *** anyway, yes its a good idea and possible to add down the track, but it wont be in the "final" version which have already started being made. i cant keep improving it indefinitely, at some point i need to stop and actually make them, and that point is now (well, a few weeks ago). its already better and cheaper than anything else out there, but that means nothing if no one can get one down the track a bit ill start a new thread where we can throw around suggestions for additional features
-
a reminder for those people coming up soon on the list - i will ask for both your details (see the 10 points at start of second post), and for you to post a signed waiver out to me. keep and eye on the second post of this thread (for upcoming people), and the orderstatus page (for those already contacted/provided me info). may be worthwhile for anyone on the list to print out and fill in/sign the waiver now whenever u have time and have it ready: http://www.ecutalk.com/consultlcd/waiver.doc if u want to send it out now, then send me a pm and ill give u post details (that way ill only need payment when your next on list before i can post it out) Peter
-
ok ive finished version 0.6 of the firmware, which if theres nothing wrong with the things changed here, will be the final version. ive changed TPS%age so that u set it up manually (have closed throttle on display, then go into options and set current voltage = 0%. go back to display, step on accelerator all teh way, then go back to options and set current voltage = 100%. then you're set). anyone who's in sydney can jump the list if they wish to help out testing this week or next weekend, although with any luck this version will be the final one
-
thanks for that, 99% accuracy is better than i would have hoped! HICAS is a different subsystem to ECU (as is the AT) - the ECU doesnt know about any HICAS faults, so it cant tell the display about any HICAS faults.
-
ahh thats why i thought i already replied, u posted in both threads
-
finally fixed issue with distance counting, i found out that whenever distance went over 9999.9m (ie 10km) i was setting it to 99999.9m - this was supposed to be whenever it went to 100km it would keep it displaying 99999.9km so as not to go off edge of screen. only issue remaining is that of TPS percentages (and how sometimes it will show >0% for closed thorrtle, and <100% for WOT). ive asked the testers if they can check the tps volts when car is/isnt running and see if min/max voltages (which are used to work out the %) change (eg maybe it shows higher/lower voltages when running/not running, which will then screw up %) im half way thru making about 10 displays, so ill have some ready when testing is "finished". ill be asking people high on list to start giving me those 10 points of info (at end of first post or start of second)
-
(thought i already posted a reply, but its gone? D:) yes you can wire one in. find a ecu pinout for ur ECU (its a stock ecu right?). get a female consult port connector ( http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/images_if/...t_connector.jpg ) from a n14 pulsar (most common) from wreckers (assuming you dont have one) then as you can see in that picture, u have: top row: RX TX, x x, x CHK, IGN btm row: GND CLK, x x, x x, x x = dont care pins. you dont need to wire up the CHK one if u dont want (its only needed for the manual error codes on the check engine light or whatever). you will find the appropriate wires on ecu pinout (IGN = 12V switch ign power, rest should be named similarly) if u already have the port, just confirm its wired up right with a continuity test with multimeter from plug to ECU
-
if u go to a wrecker and cut out a female consult port from a N14 pulsar (most common), u can wire that into ur ECU. get a hold of a ECU pinout for ur ECU and i can tell you what to wire where. Theres IGN(12V switched), GND, CLK, TX and RX - you can probably find it on the ecu pinout yourself. Theres a 6th wire, CHK, which u can wire up for the dash light flashing diagnostic code stuff, but its not specifically needed for this. You need to have a stock ECU of course. This is what each of the wires on the female consult plug is: Looking into connector ________________________ / | | RX TX - - - - IGN | | | | GND CLK - - - - - | \ ________________________|
-
oh to add to the tps thing, i rememeber on one of the cars, the tps min/max changed when car was/wasnt running? ie if u switch ur tps to volts, then turn ign on (dont start), see what ur min/max are, then turn on car, and see what min/max are? if someone can do that, if the values are different, then i think thats the cause. if thats the case i can try and change it to only consider the tps values for the %age when the car has started (eg rpm > 500?) haysey, can u get ur ECU number (23710 - ?????) from a consult program and post it here? i might be able to then check if ur ECU is a AT or MT one
-
in v0.3 and up ive added "Check Switch?" to that connect failed message just to remind people about the switch. also i probably need to better explain that the two circuits (lcd and consult interface) dont "know" about each other, so if ur in the middle of viewing sensors and u switch across, it will assume its been disconnected. likewise the serial port can only hook up to ecu, it cant talk to the chip running the lcd at all (and hence no way u can do anything like update the firmware from a PC, it needs special hardware/programmer) as ive told those who've picked up (forgot to mention it to you), the TPS % can only go off the min and max TPS voltages, and use that range for the 0-100% values (eg 0.5 is 0% and 4.4 is 100%). some ecu's do some form of self check where they will exceed the max TPS voltage, and hence the unit thinks that the max voltage is something higher than possible. could u try switching to volts, then back to % in options for TPS (this clears the min/max) then try no throttle/full throttle, and see if that sets up the percentage right. then try turn car off then back to ign on, and try full throttle again. if when u do this, it goes back to a max of 85%, then it must be a thing that happens on ecu startup. i can probably set a timer so that it ignores the tps values for 10 seconds or something? i initially didnt want to do a %age, because every ecu/tps is slightly different, and there is no universal %age for TPS - tps is a voltage as retrieved via consult (you cant retrieve a percentage). so best it can do is guess what the range is by using the min/max tps voltage values and work out a percent from there.
-
or the other way around (its a closed tps switch, so its "on" when ur off gas, and "off" when ur on gas). but yeh, if thats fine then ur timing thing is most likely just the ecu on the border between two different parts in the ign timing map.
-
yeh im printing ur post out now so i can stick it on my fridge kennedy - you mentioned your timing flashign from 10 to 15 - can u check ur closed TPS switch with datascan and see its on when ur foot is off the pedal (and stays that way). a 300zx i tested my consult lcd display on had a loose tps switch which sent idle timing back and forth from 19 to 35 (and sounded like something was up)
-
it depends on how many people currently on the list (65 on here + pga combined) go ahead and get one - unless 15 or more pull out, then you might miss first go. if it looks like theres gonna be a fair few who miss out, then i might try get second lot started asap so it will continue after this one (if not many then i might have a bit of a break)
-
yep, thats ecutalk, and when i get time i might see if the above is possible maybe u add this as a favourite to keep your memory in gear: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2347753
-
the ecu may store its last read knock value somewhere in ram (which is readable via consult). so if it does anything useful with the knock sensor reading (ie convert it to digital form and store it in ram somewhere) its possible to read it (where or if its stored is likely to be specific to given ecu) tricky bt is making up a circuit the ecu will interpret as a knock sensor (ie is knock sensor itself record/output a resistance, or a voltage?) so u can work out which ram address if any is responsible
-
they are just allowing the knock sensor reading to be displayed. (theres 2 knock sensors or something? i think you can find them on the ecu pinout) its quite possible there is still a way to read the knock sensor (or at least "is the ecu using knock maps?" flag), whether or not there is one, and whether itd be found is another thing. i have a few ideas to try out at some point. only thing is theyd be hard to test, given you dont actually want ur engine knocking...
-
keeping list of issues/bugs found in testing on my site here: http://www.ecutalk.com/index.php?option=co...4&Itemid=46 only other one to add is distance calcs are sometimes a bit off in time trials, suspected when decel that accel is being recorded as positive rather than negative and making distance jump considerably.
-
thanks for the pics one other bug i forgot to mention was peak values showed 0.0v at one point - this was because when u exit out of the options, it will clear max tps value (in case u have changed from % or volts, so u dont get it saying max was "100v" for example). i can fix this by checking what it is when u enter options, and clear max if uve changed the setting
-
that first one was for one of the testers in sydney. im happy with results so far, so ill make urs on the weekend. if further testing finds any major bugs, u can send it back at some point and i can upgrade the firmward on it. so testing today found out one main thing, that on a 300ZX, there is only one AFM (i assumed two), and my device assumes that if it has 2 O2 sensors, it must have 2 AFMS (but 300zx doesnt), so it wasnt showing the RH o2 sensor. aside from that, all was good. someone tell prank to check his pm and/or this thread!
-
some pics of the first "final" device completed for testing. the black blob on the cord is a external vreg (basically means device itself stays cooler) which will warm up a bit (heatshrink takes care of it), and also a 0.5A fuse (this "should" be enough, but testing will determine if it needs to be a higher value or not)
-
check ur pm re: testing availability ive finished the firmware so once i finish building the devices for the testers (one completed so far) ill be able to start testing with them. either thru the week, or next weekend.
-
yeh, just depends hoe theyt get the reading, i gyues itd be reading sensor directly. anyway ocnce ive got the first lot going ill start another thread with suggestions for improvements/extensions (got an idea for an extension for logging to some kind of memory card as a possibility)