NewKleer

edit: fixed num injectors used per rev in 4 stroke engine - thanks enilyks33r if anyone has time to check my maths for calc L/100KM, go ahead... input: injector size: s ml.min-1 (user input) inj pulse width: p ms (consult) - this is fuel injected per rev of engine per cylinder?? hence we need: number of injectors: n (user input) - this will be divided by 2 for 4 stroke engine down below where its used car RPM: r rpm (consult) current speed: u km.h-1 (consult) determine: 1 rev period: t = 1/(r/60) s inj ml per period (all injectors): m = (n/2)*(s/60)/t ml speed in m/s: v = (u * 1000)/(60*60) ms-1 now we have ml of fuel used in the single RPM assuming constant speed over that revolution of the engine, distance travelled, in m: d = v * t to get L/100KM: ECO = (m/1000) / (100*(d / 1000)) = m / (100 * d) L/100KM

0-60kmh, 0-100kmh, 0-160kmh, and 400m time trials are done (all have speed/distance), all except for the clearing of best times. distance is calculated from average acceleration between each jump in speed (2, 4, 6, 8 etc km/h, every 2 kph is lowest consult speed resolution), on the assumption acceleration is linear within that interval as the rate of change of acceleration (that is, the rate of change of the rate of change of speed ) is relatively negligible over such a small interval, the distance measuring is reasonably accurate (i hope!). ill compare it to my odometer reading next time i put my display back together to test and go for a drive. this means that a L/100KM economy reading is a possibility (will require injector CC size setup) - i still have to decide if ill try to do this or not.

so i go to base forum index, type "ding" (whatever) in the search box, hit enter, then search results come up. at same time (when i did the search for first time), i got a popup like u do when u have a new pm when visiting forums for first time (since u got the pm). the popup says "u have no new pms" (which is correct), but there is "1 new message" up the top right where it otherwise says "0 new messages". when i click there to go to my pms, there is no new message. i can do this repeatedly with same effect (pm popup only on the first time) hows that for a bug!

good thinking! will see where that takes me, though im not sure whether theyd give advice for what theyd consider "commercial" or non-student enterprises edit: yep just confirmed that they dont provide free help in this area, worth a try though

this or following weekend may be possible for me - depends when i get it "finished" by - later is better than sooner as i never meet deadlines send me a pm with the 8 bits of info at end of first post also a msg to everyone - final cost may rise slightly to 210-220 depending on costs of legal advice. at this stage it looks likely that ull need to sign/send a disclaimer/waiver that basically says if ur an idiot, its not my fault. just to cover me in case, by any chance ur a rich kid with a lawyer as a father and disfigure urself while doing a 0-160km/h time trial down parramatta road in peak hour rush...

read the first/second post in thread if u can pickup/help with testing (would be useful for the GTR to test ive done it right, i dont actually know till then), u get to jump the queue - otherwise ull be put at end of the list, and will be contacted if/when one's available if pickup/testing, just bring money whenever we meet up, and if ur happy with it then (ie, no bugs i need to fix, which is possible and the whole point in testing) then u can buy it then.

done. it automatically checks if BOTH RH O2 and AFM available (both should be on 300zx and GTR) and will adjust screen accordingly (no need to set any options). if for some reason only one is available (o2 or AFM), then it wont show either (too complicated, and i dont know of any cars that only support one of these two RH sensors, either none or both) second line for normal display: //GTR/300ZX - tps down to 0.0 (from 0.00) if setup as V (% stays same, 000%) AAC:00 O2:xx/xx 000oC A:0.0/0.0 TPS:0.0V second line for peak values - note peak can show AFM to 2 dec places. // if TPS setup to use volts (uses 9 chars), then INJ only 2 digits, and shows 99 max INJ:00% 00oB 000oC A:0.00/0.00 TPS:0.00V // if TPS setup to use % (uses 8 chars), then INJ has normal 3 digits and can potentially show 100% INJ:000% 00oB 000oC A:0.00/0.00 TPS:000%

well, the easiest way would be "2 AFMs and 2 O2's or ban!" im working on it now, probably finish it tonight, though id need a GTR to properly test it

all consult plugs are the same, but good luck tracking down a 300zx, r32/r33/r34, s13/s14/s15 at a place that doesnt cost an arm and a leg. most mainstream wreckers will have n14 pulsars, failing that i think some maximas might have them? im sure ull be able to find one - just bring along something to get it out though, theyre an absolute bastard to remove for the ones that at fixed to the side of the fuse box case.

yeh, you should be able to wire one in. first youll need to work out if ur ECU supports it - not all R32's do (the ones from 6/89 to around 10/89 dont). if you know the date of the source car for ur R32 engine? or failing that, grab the ECU model number off the ECU (23710 XXXXX) and i should be able to find out. then if it supports consult, go to a wrecker and get a female consult plug (ie the vehicle one) from a n14/n15 pulsar. then locate a ecu pinout diagram u have 3 wires to ECU, and +12v IGN and ground. TX, RX, CLK are the 3 wires u wire up to ECU, and 12v IGN/GND can come from ECU source also, which is normally the very right hand pins on ecu (pin number 59/60 or there abouts - confirm pin/location on the pinout). obviously 12v IGN should only supply power when IGN is on. i had to wire up my rb25 silva manually

to keep people who've already been contacted about their displays updated, ive got an orderstatus webpage up here: http://www.ecutalk.com/consultlcd/orderstatus.php if any fields are empty that shouldnt be (eg cable length, cable exit, post/pay method, etc), it probably means you havent told me yet.

if i was an admin id see how much trouble i could get u in with ur pimp by randomly changing the url it points to elsewhere dont expect the admins to approve of it surely theres better ways to get money, eg a real job. ud probably earn as much in an hour working as u would in 6 months with a dirty sig

its normally in the area around the fuses under the dash (ie, drivers side kick panel)

the 20x4 display (what u have?) has a character heigh of 4.75mm, whereas the 40x2 im using is 5.55mm. that together with being slim enough to mount on steering column (and hence closer to the positions available for the bulkier 20x4) makes reading it pretty easy. ill have a think about whether i can do something for the GTR/300ZX users. currently it shows "O2:.00v", which is 7 chars, but if i cut down TPS:x.xxv (9 chars) to TPS:x.xv (8 chars), then ive got 8 chars for O2 sensor, which could then be O2:xx/xx (ie, lose the V and the . point, but be able to show both). as for AFM, how important is that? its currently AFM:x.xxV (9 chars). could make it A:x.x/x.x for Left/right? (no V and lose 1 dec place) no promises, but does that look like a good solution?

database was saying it had too many connections randomly between 7-8:30pm sometime, i take it was to do with whatever was causing that

i meant it more as a blanket statement to anyone not to expect that ill do anything at all on them after i sell this lot (and hence dont buy one based on the assumption i will). im aiming to improve them as i go along, but wont commit to anything. if people buy it for what it is now, and i can provide upgrade options in the future, thatd be great, but i simply dont know what ill do. good ideas like temp monitoring never go astray however (closest idea i ever had to that was just monitoring the temperature of the device itself, but that was boring).

most of the site wasnt working when u posted the current units will be able to be used without hardware modification (aside from necessary wiring etc to some external board) to add sensors later. ie, if i released a model that supported thermocouples, it would be no different from the current one in hardware setup. software/firmware that runs it would obviously change (cause ud have to be able to see these temperatures somewhere), but thats relatively simple to reprogram later on. so yes, if 20 people that buy the devices all want this kind of addon, thered be no problem doing it a seperate external circuit board would be needed to hold the thermocouple reader chips, and this most likely would be kept in the engine bay as u dont want long leads on thermocouples (you cant just "extend" them easily with normal wire). as a "k-type" thermocouple is a standard, any thermocouple of that standard should work in the same manner. if i was to do it though, id try to track down and organise them, though how u actually mount them would be up to you. the chip needed to read these thermocouples is around $10-15, and youre looking at about the same again (or more) for a thermocouple. times that by 4, and add a bit for the board and other needed hardware, and it will cost ~150 perhaps all up. the only thing is im not quite sure yet if its possible to only read 1, or unlimited units at a time - something ill have to look at. if you wouldnt get a display if i said "i will never do this", then dont - cause there is that chance that ill never get time to. i think its likely i will eventually have time to, but who knows when (its very possible i may not get enough spare time again till the 2nd half of next year...)

no need to yet, ill pm people as i get up to them (otherwise im bound to lose everyones details)

R32 after around october 89 started to come with consult

what month? does it have a consult port (easier way to confirm), if so should work. O2/AFM readings will only be for left side (hopefully sometime down the track when i do second lot of improvements, ill be able to add support for some option to read the right side o2/afm - but if ur car is going fine, the values will be close to the same).

cool, if u have 3 cars i could probably come over there to test it out (if u want to give it a go on all 3) if that sounds ok.

ive put u on hold, just let me know when ur back

ive half-way done time trials ive opened a group buy thread over here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=130985 most people who've express interested in this thread have been added to the "interested" list. see that thread for more info.

Order Status Current order status for those who've been contacted by me can be seen here: http://www.ecutalk.com/consultlcd/orderstatus.php Interest List If you're interested but not on the list, reply to this thread. If you're no longer interested, just send me a pm and ill take you off. If you thought you already indicated you're interested in the old thread, pm me the link to your post and ill stick you in the appropriate position on the list (dont edit it the post, as ill take last edit date for position on list). Also let me know if you dont want your username to be public. When devices are available, ill PM people in order of the list and ask if theyre still interested/payment details etc. Sold kjb_r33 PranK Haysey msnismo TurboX bilbo117 MANWHOR3 MsG_ChRiS Interloper insu enilyks33r Rudager Space Ninja muck AnFz RAZOR32 frother phunky_monkey CeJay D_I_F linkems battery Later toy86 WogsRus CATKICKER Acolyte 46n2 KamikazeR33 mr moo hazerb30 govich

ECUTalk Consult LCD Displays Edit: 28/1 - Donated $50 to SAU Edit: See video (~7.5mb) of it in action, and a writeup of whats happening in the video at different points. As anyone who is keeping up with the consult lcd display thread ive had going here on sau and on pga for the last 8 months, will know im getting very close to finialising the device. Ive decided to start this thread now to better organise everything. As it uses the consult port, you will need a car that: a) supports consult (ie, you have the plug near ur fuse box), and b) still retains the stock ECU (piggybacks and remaps generally fine), and c) doesnt have messed up wiring to consult port (shouldnt, unless you have an engine transplant or some other reason the wiring may be been fubared - eg it was on my old rb25 silvia). For skylines, this is the R32's (10/89 + i think), R33, R34 (all variants except CA18 engined skylines, if anyone actually wasted money importing one!) This follows on from previous successful group buys ive done for DIY Consult Interfaces and the same thing but assembled. Display Hardware: Edit: On the cable there is a "black blob". Inside this, there is a flattish voltage regulator (drops 12-14v to 9V), and a 0.5A fuse (the more rounded bit). A spare fuse is included with the device (this isnt a loose component). The device is 188mm wide, 37mm high (39mm with buttons) and 28mm deep, and weighs around 300g (depending on cable length). It is quite compact is takes up only slightly more than the LCD display itself does (which is 182w x 33.5h x 14d without connector). It has a right side and a rear holes for possible cable exits. It has two cables from the device - one for the integrated consult interface (serial connector, plug into serial port on laptop) and one to the consult port (genuine consult connector). The device itself has 3 buttons (red, white and grey/black) on the top of the device, going left to right from the left of the device. The buttons are used to navigate through menus and the different features of the device. The red, or leftmost button, is the enter/select button, which either initiates the menu (from the main display screen) or selects the currently selected item from any other menus/screens. The white (left) and grey/black (right) buttons control the position of the cursor mainly in any of the menus. It should be pretty easy to work it out when you use it. About 10mm to the right of the buttons is a switch (only slightly above the surface, and might not be very visible in the picture). This switch selects between lcd display (LEFT) and consult interface (RIGHT). The screen is a standard 40x2 backlit screen, wide temperate (-20 to +70 operating, -30 to +80 storage), and has the best viewing angles ive yet to see in a 40x2 screen (50 above, 60 below, and 40 left or right), let alone a wide temp version which is needed for keeping in hot cars (pun intended). Display Features: The display has sensor display, fault codes, time trials (0-60, 0-100, 0-160, 400m), options setup, peak values, integrated serial consult interface, and a device info screen. Rather than try to describe them, its probably easier to show what the screen will show (more or less). When the display turns on (when ign is on), it first goes to the sensor values screen. from there, hitting enter (red) will bring up the main menu, from which everytihng is accessible. On all menus: 'X' denotes current cursor position. left/right to move, and enter (red) to select the current item. most of the info below is zeroed out or whatever, when its running youll see actual values of course. by default ive just stuck the X in the first option. main menu: /------------------------------------------\ | [X]Display [ ]Error Codes [ ]Time Trials | | [ ]Options [ ]Peak Values [ ]Device Info | \------------------------------------------/ display: will look different with different options (eg tps %, etc) /------------------------------------------\ | 000kph 0000rpm 00.0v EC:xxx INJ:00% 00oB | | AAC:00 O2:.00v 000oC AFM:0.00V TPS:0.00V | \------------------------------------------/ error codes: an error code has: xx - the error code, "description" name of error (or close enough to it) and (xx) = number of times the car has started since the error has occured /------------------------------------------\ | [X]Exit [ ]Clear xx description (xx) | | 13 Coolant Sens( 1) 15 Oxygen Sensr(12) | \------------------------------------------/ time trials: havent completed the 400m one - may remove that (very difficult to do, but will attempt it) /------------------------------------------\ | [X]Exit [ ]0-60 [ ]0-100 [ ]0-160 [ ]400 | | Last Time: 000.000s Best Time: 000.000s | \------------------------------------------/ individual time trial: distance may be removed if i cant get it to work. when u start time trial, the clear/exit options have a [-], meaning they cant be accessed (till you stop the time trial) /------------------------------------------\ | [X]Exit [ ]Start [ ]Clear Best:xxx.xxxs | | Speed:000kph Distance:xxxm Time:xxx.xxxs | \------------------------------------------/ options: pretty self explanatory - press enter when ur on option to toggle between alternatives /------------------------------------------\ | [X]Exit Move to option, enter to switch | | [ ]Speed:KM->Mi [ ]Temp:C->F [ ]TPS:V->% | \------------------------------------------/ peak values: reset, well, resets them! /------------------------------------------\ | [x]Exit [ ]Reset 000kph 0000rpm EC:xxx | | INJ:000% 00oB 000oC AFM:0.00V TPS:0.00V | \------------------------------------------/ device info: bit of random info on the device. press enter (or any button, forget) to go back to menu /------------------------------------------\ | ECUTalk LCD Display Version 1.0 11/08/06 | | Copyright Your Mother, www.ecutalk.com | \------------------------------------------/ The display is upgradable for most minor changes made (if they are made after you purchase one), so dont be concerned about missing out on anything. Group Buy Scheduling: Once testing is finalised, ill be making the devices for everyone else as quick as I can, but i imagine maybe 5-10 per week. Total run will be around 48 displays. Some may be sold on PGA or on a case by case basis to those overseas. So total amount available here depends upon demand. If demand is high ill try set up another run later on. Price and Payment: $200 pickup or +postage. Its likely price will rise after this initial group buy if i make any more (as im just breaking even assuming i sell all displays). Comes with a 18cm strip of velcro for mounting. (the glue on the velcro isnt that good, doesnt like direct sunlight...up to you whether you use it to mount or something else). Payments will only be made when ive confirmed that a device is available - i wont require or accept any up front payments to keep things easier to manage. Selling my RB25 Silvia gave me $10k which i hadnt had any reason to use, so now ive used almost all of that up, i need to get it back $2 per unit sold will be donated to SAU (will be donated at the end of selling this first batch). Wish i could donate more, but any more and ill risk losing money Pickup is from Blacktown, Western Sydney, or possibly near Wynyard in Sydney (I work there a couple days/week). Postage is via: Express Post($7) or Registered Post ($10). Registered may take longer to send out if i have to do it over the counter, and its naturally slower to arrive than express, but it does have insurance for $200 (though ive never had an express post item not turn up). Payment is via bank transfer (St George, arrives day after at earliest), or Paypal (instant, but has an additional fee of $6 unfortunately). Paypal is only an advantage when bank transfer is inconvenient, or you want the device ASAP (eg its 8pm and bank transfer wont be processed till the next day, and arrive in my account the day after that). You dont need a paypal account necessarily to use paypal, just a credit card. OK i want one, what do I do now?: I want to structure the group buy such that those who expressed interest first in the relevant threads here on sau and on pga will get first preference. If you are not on the list, simply post in this thread that you're interested. I will, as i make the devices, ask the people in the list via PM in turn if they still want one, and if so, request payment. If they can provide payment within a reasonable time, they can purchase it then and pickup/get it posted. Otherwise, they'll either be removed from the list or put to the end of it, depending on whether theyre no longer interested, or just cant pay right now. Things ill ask for when I've got displays ready and you're next on list: Required: 1) Your full name 2) Your address and phone number 3) Email address (if u have one...for updates in future) 4) Your payment method (bank transfer, paypal (+$6 fee), or pickup) 5) Post method - either: express($7, preferred) or registered($10, can't be sent out as quickly as express as requires going into post office), or pickup - if you want to pick up, then your availability (so i can tell you when is good for me). 6) Do you want the cable exiting the rear (back right corner) or the right side? (think about where you want to mount it) 7) What car(s) you want to use it on (+confirm uve read second paragraph of first post about what car's itll work on) - let me know if u dont want car info public on orderstatus page Optional (defaults = quicker to make/send): 8) Cable lengths: standard is 150cm for both serial and consult cables. You can specify your own lengths, but i wont add the cables to your display till payment is received (so you wont get it as quickly). Cable lengths dont have to be the same. 9) If you want a non-standard serial number (standard: SN:00xx, eg SN:0025 for 25th display), give me an up to 7 character (eg "1_24 dg") serial number. This is for device info part of display - doesnt change functionality at all 10) Whether you have a laptop without serial port and would like a serial/usb converter (see here), +$20 Peter