NewKleer

$150 sounds about normal for safc type tune (piggyback). try ring unigroup

anyone u pay to tune it should be able to (ie, they would otherwise be able to tune other things like SAFC etc). its pretty simple u could do it urself also (just pay for 1hr dyno hire) if you have somewhat of an idea what you're doing (reading this thread would be a good start). ive tuned mine twice now (second time we blew a tailshaft). hardest thing is getting the load points matched up with RPMS so u know which points to move up/down. just make sure you have someone listening for pinging (often dyno operator/assistant will) best way to align rpm/load points is tell dyno operator to go thru a run slowly calling out every 500rpm, and u write the load point from handcontroller at that point. then when u look at graph, and see u need to lean, rpm from say 5000->5900, then u look at ur load points and u should be able to tell roughly where that is

ive done peak values. just time trials and determine if heat is going to be an issue, and its good to go will be organising for some testing with sydney people perhaps next weekend (26/27th). i may or may not have time trials stuff finished by then. it would be up to the individual if they wanted to then buy it right then (assuming they bring the bacon with them), but get an update down the track with the final version, or wait till ive finished it (and potentially fixed any problems found in testing) before getting it (either way, those able to help with testing will have first dibs) send me a pm if ur interested and dont live too far away from blacktown (if u dont know where it is, you probably live too far away )

ive done options and clear fault codes. doing peak values now. by the way, im open to suggestions on how time trials should work. this is my current thinking: [X]Exit [ ]Start [ ]Clear Best:xxx.xxxs Speed:000kph Distance:xxxm Time:xxx.xxxs obviously assuming i can get distance going with some semblance of accuracy start will start monitoring speed, etc (and will change to "[x]Stop"), and each time speed = 0, will start timing when speed > 0 till it reaches x (60, 100, whatever). unless u stop it, it will keep timing and if u beat the best, will overwrite that. clear will clear best time. this is assuming i can measure distance (with some vague amount of accuracy). if not, then something else can do in that space. maybe a progress bar? (0||||||---60) ive no idea

just checked out supercheap, $4 per 15cm (x2cm i think) piece. which is a bit of a rip-off. will check out spotlight (that shop i used to dread visiting as a kid, so bloody boring )

theyre 188mm wide and about 40mm high inc buttons. u could probably mount it to front of the free space easier than inside it, that way u can still press buttons etc. i dont have ur car so i dont really know. the viewing angles may make it hard to read if its too low though in my opinion on the steering column is best place to put it, it normally wont interfere with ur gauges unless ur steering column is high. other alternatives are the base of windscreen (so ur not too distracted from road) or maybe sun visor? ill see if i can get a chunk of sticky tape velcro (is that exists) that i can ship some with to aid in mounting i have a shit pic (dont have decent camera), was taken a while ago...nothing exciting

definitely. i dont anticipate changing anything to the point it would make older versions not able to do the same thing (with required upgrades) that later ones can. even the 12 pcb's i got made initially for prototyping will be able to do the same stuff the final version can (although at this point they arent gonna do anything except sit in the cupboard). for external voltages, all it requires is wiring it up to the board (which already has places for it). you of course have to know or be able to interpret whatever voltage its reading, itll just display it. eg: V1: 1.34v V2: 2.34v V3: 0.14v V4: 4.34v V5: 0.00v V6: 4.10v V7: 2.23v V8: 3.07v for other external things that need other chips(eg k-type thermocouple), these could either be placed on the board (room for 2 k-type thermocouple reader ICs if u use a different capacitor), or more easily, placed on a small prototype board external to the device, thats wired up to the device (eg power, ground, and 2 data lines), which would be a more tidy solution. either way, its do-able. the reason impakts peaks are only the ones ur watching is u can only stream so many sensors on consult, its not possible to stream all at once. mine would operate similarly, however theres no setup required as all standard ones that 95% of ecu's support are shown, and the more important of those (not O2, batt, AAC, whose max values are of no interest really due to their transitory nature) which the peak values mean something, are on the peak screen: display 000kph 0000rpm 00.0v EC:xxx INJ:00% 00oB AAC:00 O2:.00v 000oC AFM:0.00V TPS:0.00V peak [x]Exit [ ]Reset 000kph 0000rpm EC:xxx INJ:00% 00oB 000oC AFM:0.00V TPS:0.00V

i definitely still want it to be able to monitor k-type thermocouples so that can become an addon for anyone who wants that. and i also have generic voltage input monitoring on the todo list (to read any 0-5v input) for after the initial release sometime (i do have to work on an update to my consult software first, however) as for the time trials, ask people why they buy g-tech's for and u probably have your answer there. it is nothing u cant get at a drag strip, but then not everyone goes to a drag strip. i also want to see how accurate distance measurements can be, as this may tie in with more improved economy monitorying/trip meter type functions. and if i go so far as to implement the 400m time "just to see" how accurate it will be, i may as well leave it in for thermocouples, maybe this would be appropriate?: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=QM1283 ive no idea how ud set it up for oil or exh temp. intake (before and/or after IC) would be useful and easy to set up?

bar graph would be acceptible way to view it (allows u to glance at it to read boost, which is analagous to normal analog gauges) however, wont u want to read sensor values and boost pressure/oil pressure at the same time without having to switch between them on the device? in which case itd make sense to have seperate gauges/devices. anyway this wont be in the initial release, we can talk about it after uve got ur device if u are still convinced u dont want to keep a separate boost gauge.

hopefully all these (as post above linked to) i snuck a "400" into the time trials section, which is for a 400m time trial - this might not make it in if i cant accurately enough measure distance (which is hard without an accelerometer or access to trip meter). i think i can get close which is why i put it there, but ill find out soon enough. although i am a tad concerned if it is in there, that people will find the need to do a 400m run on public roads, but u could do that already with a stopwatch, so hopefully common sense will prevail if i somehow have too much time, ill see if i can setup some config to allow economy to be L/100km, which requires setting up ur injector CC rating. like the 400m thing, i dont know how accurate while the knock sensor value itself cannot be read via consult, i came across somewhere that said bit 7 of address 0055 will tell u if the ecu is using knock maps or not - so ill see if i can add ability to read this

200+post, and a few weeks (both are estimates)

good point about refresh rate - oil pressure or boost pressure arent really useful on digital display as theyre changing too quickly but like ive said previously, i cant do anything without technical specs on whatever sensors u would be using (eg k-type thermocouple is known format for temp reading, but as for pressure, no idea)

just an update on what ive done/havent done: done: main sensor display keeping track of max values button inputs (i dont want to hear the word "debounce" for a long while!) main menu reading error codes device info some options stuff (eg reading saved options on startup) still to go (probably in this order): clear fault codes peak values viewing options setup time trials and most importantly, i havent build any devices yet (hardware wise), but this isnt much of an issue compared to finishing the device firmware

for more info on those screens, see this post on pga: http://forum.pulsar.org.au/showpost.php?p=...p;postcount=136

unfortunately the blue 4x20 displays are negative/transmissive screens. this means they rely solely upon the backlight to provide lighting, and any external lighting will cancel out the backlighting. without the backlight (or with cancelling external light) they will appear black and unreadable. so unless you only drive at night, the screens will be unreadable during the day unless put in something which receives very little natural light. traditional 20x4 lcds are also slightly more than twice the height of the current screen ive got. means that u have practically no useful mounting positions compared to a lower profile screen (which can be mounted on steering column, dash near windscreen, or sun visor (maybe?)). as im sure ur aware, finding a place to mount one of impakts devices that wont mean ur taking ur eyes completely off the road to look at it, isnt too easy. one alternative is the crystalfontz low profile 4x20 screens: http://www.crystalfontz.com/products/2004k/index.html if u find a suitable enclosure, these could be mounted inside a DIN slot. they are wide temperature which is good (as are the ones im supplying) but the viewing angles from above arent so good (so youll need it close to eye level to read them easily - ie not a low DIN slot).

thanks for fixing this up guys Peter

most likely $200 + post just received the enclosure today - looks good. ive got all parts now, so just need to finish the firmware/software that runs it, and i can start making them. im hoping within 2 weeks ill have some available, but who knows

very interest and relevant ideas. it would be possible to put a thermocouple converter IC on the board to read a k-type thermocouple. (MAX6675). perhaps u want to find out what available oil temp sensors there are, and if any are k-type thermocouples (or find out if any are a given "standard", be it a thermocouple, or if it has a varying resistance or some known way to determine temperature) as for boost reading, it would probably be possible to get something to read boost, but it would have to use an external sensor that returns a digital signal or analog voltage (0-5v), or like the temp, uses a known sensor format that can be interfaced with (i wouldnt be handling reading boost directly from the device itself, but would require an external sensor of some kind) however - either would cost at least $20-40 extra, would take a considerable amount of time to implement, and thus wont be considered for "release 1.0" (which is purely a "plug and play" release). all boards made will have the same capabilities to be upgraded to later (both ideas are "possible" on current hardware setup so no problem there). i want to make sure i get it doing what it does right, rather than trying to get too much functionality jammed in to begin with and potentially messing things up

14 pin grey plug, normally located attached to or dangling near the fuse box. if not u can wire one into the ecu directly (assuming u have a normal ecu) - i had to do this on my old rb25 silvia cause someone messed up the wiring and some wires were either short circuited or disconnected (but if they did it right, this shouldnt be the case) its consult not obd, btw

the enclosures are in the mail, should be here hopefully by next weekend. waiting for one lot of parts also, they should also be here by next weekend. already received the pcb's and other parts, ive built a board and all is good, so on the hardware side of things its 95% done. just need to try and find a good way to keep the heat down in the box. ive written up a bit about the interface and what i want to get done for the final release. note that currently i havent written anything except the display code, so im not sure how long it will take to get done, but i think most of it would definitely be worthwhile to get in let me know what u think of it, and if it seems straight forward etc. at this stage im hoping i can code it so that to switch to consult interface all u do is switch the top switch (hences theres no entry for it since u use the physical switch) buttons/switch: there are 3 buttons. one on the left, then two close to each other the left most is the "menu/action/enter" button the next two are the left/right, or minus/plus, down/up or whatever the switch switches between lcd display (left) and serial consult interface (right) main menu: [X]Display [ ]Error Codes [ ]Time Trials [ ]Options [ ]Peak Values [ ]Device Info by default, device will start in display mode (ie, showing sensors). pressing the select/enter button (the left most) will show this menu. then u press left/right to choose which items to go into display: 000kph 0000rpm 00.0v EC:xxx INJ:00% 00oB AAC:00 O2:.00v 000oC AFM:0.00V TPS:0.00V the TPS, temp, and speed may be configurable in options error codes: display up to 3 error codes, option to clear them (shown below just example). xx is actual error code, (13 TempSens), "x times" is how many times car started since error showed up) [X]Exit [ ]Clear xx CAS (x times) xx AFM (x times) xx TempSens(x times) time trials: starts when u go above 0 [X]Exit [ ]0-60 [ ]0-100 [ ]0-160 [ ]400 Current Time: 00.00s Best Time: 00.00s options: configure TPS v/%, KPH->MPH, oC/oF [x]Exit [ ]Speed: KPH->MPH [ ]Temp: oC -> oF [ ]TPS: 0.00v-> 000% peak values: batt voltage, AAC, O2 arent important peak values, but rest are shown [x]Exit [ ]Reset 000kph 0000rpm EC:xxx INJ:00% 00oB 000oC AFM:0.00V TPS:0.00V device info: ECUTalk LCD Display Version 1.0 xx/xx/06 Copyright Peter Collins, www.ecutalk.com

if you're talking about the piggyback e-manage, then yes, since it still uses the stock ecu. like other piggybacks, youll only be able to read out what the ecu "sees"

u plug the serial plug from the display straight into the serial port on ur laptop (assuming u have a serial port) and yes, aiming to have the peak values function

wow, that sounds exactly like the software ive made/making! *cough* next update to ecutalk should have the auto start option like the ppc version has and yes, R34 is consult 1, not obd

stock ecu, can be remapped so long as consult code isnt messed up (not sure if thats in the eeprom or elsewhere in ecu, so not sure if its possible to mess consult code up or not). piggybacks are fine (like safc) but display will only read what ecu see's obviously, not actual (before piggyback) voltage/value

eco = speed * 10 / duty cycle (is what im using) you could do L/100KM, but you'd have to know the injector size, number of cylinders and distance travelled per interval. for the reason stated before about why 0-400M times arent too easy to do, this wouldnt be either car dash computer (ie cars that have their own L/100KM readout or whatever) have the advantage of being able to read the odometer - and hence can get accurate distance measures, whereas i cant