NewKleer

ive bought 2 from mark, one from JRD. i bought the one from JRD due to the time and lack of communication in receiving the second (and just to see what JRD's service and product was like). no idea why i would be worried about ebay when we buy from mark outside of ebay. i wish mark was able to give us some definite idea when he has the time to process orders and when he doesnt - that way we dont need to even consider the JRD ones - but when we might be waiting 2 weeks for a delivery, it doesnt give buyers a lot of confidence. awesome justification - because the service was good for you, it MUST be the same for EVERYONE. the first i bought i had no issues with at all. the second i bought i did have issues with timing and communication. ive had first hand experience of both. sure, you can say you havent had any problems with him, but that doesnt mean no one else has it is also obvious you havent read this thread at all, because even mark acknowledged his problem with delays in sending things out, so how you can say there hasnt been any issues when he himself acknowledged it is beyond me (not to mention the 15-20 or so people who've posted in this thread enquiring about postage times and delays)

it seems like the email notifications are inserting far too many new lines between the content? in the post quoted below, on the forums there is 2 line spaces between his paragraphs - in the email there is 5. so at least an extra line per line in the emails, if not more

www.ebay.com.au search for boost controller then sort by price if you cant see them

you tune it the same time you do your computer - you need to do them together (if you are going to do them both eventually then you should do them at the same time) you could leave the boost mapping, and depending how much you change ur fuel etc maps, there might not be a noticible difference, but you are right in that potentially you will need to remap it as ur points will now change main thing im getting at is that the boost wont be as sensitive to changes you make to boost mapping - eg if u remapped ecu then leave boost as is, you might find it boosts slightly later, is slightly higher, tails off a tiny bit or whatever, but it wont be to the point that its not drivable and it might not even be noticable (depending how much ur ecu is changed in the remap)

you should remap it potentially yes - but for the most part (if you're not concerned about ramp up and so on) then all u need to do is look at ur boost gauge and make sure its hitting intended top boost, and holding it - if it is, then u can leave a remap for later on

this is exactly why i see no issue with buying them of jrdsport on ebay - sure mark came up with a good idea, but a definite lack of solid customer service is not a good way to go about business. it should be really simple for him - when he doesnt have time to attend to things, dont advertise them on ebay. when we see he's got 6 ads on ebay, one would assume that means he has sufficient time to tend to those sales, if he had none then we could assume he doesnt have the time right now. but to still attempt to sell things at times when he may be afk for a week at a time isnt the best way to keep customers happy.

or a truckload of people who couldnt be bothered to read the thread when it was smaller and hence asked the same questions on every page.

the boost source should be the bottom, opposite bolt. the middle one goes to wastegate the boost source should be as close to turbo compressor outlet as possible. u might get spiking if its on the manifold side of a bit fmic

just an update to let people know that uni/work for me will be really busy till july 1, so probably wont get much done by then. however the enclosures are still the thing thats holding things up - so it might be the case that i dont have to actually do anything till then myself anyway.

if u wind it out too far you will get stock boost or boost leak/running rich/shit depending in the screw you wind out no longer seals the air if ur getting it to 9/10 then its probably working right. do you have a fmic, and what boost source are you using? when it spikes to 10, does it then come back to 9? does it do it more in low gears than higher gears?

guess you didnt read that they have a minimum of about 2psi higher than stock boost. if ur wastegate is 7psi, you wont be able to get much less than about 9psi.

if one from a pulsar doesnt work then its unlikely any other one will, unless the one ur tried was really dodgy circuit. which was it? what circuit did you follow i mean. i could probably help u get it to work on ur skyline have u checked the obvious thing that ur ecu is actually hooked up to your consult cabling?

i dont think the slowness is due to known issue, its just that ppc u have. like on the now second news post on the site, the 548 is pretty much the crappest PDA speed wise u can get that it will 'work' on. the fact it works at all is pretty good - its a pocket pc 2000 (original ppc) which is now like 6-7 years old. my testing was roughly 1-3 updates a second maybe, which isnt that fast obviously, but since the jornada 548's can be got off ebay for like $30-40, cant be expecting too much.

did u replace that plug then? (the one that was in 5 and now 1)

maybe you need to teach the dyno operators how to set the graphs up to. to have AFR scale from 10->44 is absolutely stupid. as others have said, AFR looks too good (but cant tell for sure due to scale), so there could be soemthing going on there.

did you end up tuning it sk? if you did what were the results? allow you to fix up the AFR a lot more?

im sure theirs a contrast potentiometer in there somewhere. a blue rectangular thing with a little turning knob in the corner? like one of these (maybe bottom left?): http://www.vatronics.com/trimmerpotentiometers.jpg

contrast of lcd or u didnt connect the controller up before turning it on etc.

have sent off device to manufacturers to make enclosure also put some info (most of it already here) on my site, http://www.ecutalk.com

youll run probably 2pis over stock as a minimum, and yes, the more wound out it is the less itll run. cant have it wound out too much or the ball wont be held in place by spring and it could get messed up. if u want to run stock boost, dont worry with it - the difference between 7psi normally, and 7psi if you could get it with this is not huge. not the best investment if you are wanting to run stock boost

well he sends express post so normally next day after he sends. problem is he often can take a while to actually send it out

0-5v

Couple more pics, this time of a built display minus enclosure of course. You can see the switch on the top pic sticking out, this switches between consult lcd and consult interface. 3 buttons will be on final device to left of these, sticking out similarly. pics taken without flash to show backlight

google image search was invented for brainless noobs http://www.tuneupchile.cl/performance/wast...0controller.jpg there u have the ideal setup - boost source from the compressor housing (closest to turbo possible), and u can see the wastegate on the right (the gold thing). more precisely when wastegate has been mentioned, we're talking about the wastegate actuator, not the wastegate itself. coming out of the centre of the gold thing (wastegate actuator) ull see a rod going towards the exhaust side of turbo in order to open/close the gate.

u didnt get the instructions that came with it? do u know where ur wastegate is? trace the vacuum line from it. where does it go? it will either go directly to a boost source (any bit of piping between turbo compressor outlet and the throttle body), or indirectly via a boost solenoid regardless of where it goes, u remove that line on the end opposite wastegate (leave it attached to wastegate side as is) and put that line on the side of the boost controller. then put a line from the bottom of the boost controller, to wherever the "boost source" that u traced to just above.