NewKleer

get the TPS to around 0.45v. so obviously dont need to if its close to this already. check your AAC value when car warmed up and idling, and also check the Closed Throttle switch in ECUTalk software to make sure its triggered (on) when throttle closed and off when its opened.

yes normally 0.45v or there abouts (check service manual), definitely not 0v one quick way to adjust idle screw is after car up to full operating temp, watching AAC value come down as you adjust idle screw, and once AAC stops coming down (should be under 30) can stop. but good idea to check timing with timing light and also do proper base idle adjustment via consult (free conzult has the test in it) after this.

sold for $100

ignition leads not rubbing up against anything? i wore out one of mine against IC pipe and would misfire with enough load (engine twist against pipe)

yes a standalone knocklite or similar is best way to go. consult doesnt report it. unsure but i think nistune knock reading requires the daughterboard and custom nistune 'code' on that board to report it - i think so, cant remember 100%. so dont think just getting the software will help.

ahh right - if you want to buy it, conzult sx can be purchased from blazt.biz (full conzult is only for 300zx), though at $141USD, im not sure how 'happily' people would pay for it but my suggestion is to hold off paying for any software for a couple of weeks, until the excitement etc wears off a bit and you work out how often you use it, what you use it for, whether there is stuff you cant do with the supplied software, etc.

http://www.ecutalk.com/interface.aspx - 3/4 down you got links to obd scantech, free conzult, and calumsult, as well as ecutalk itself. combination of ecutalk and obd scantech is suitable for most people. and, in future, dont ask here for people to help you pirate software...

your MFD is probably guessing what '0%' means. e.g. if it has decided 0.44v is 0%, then if its reading 0.46v then it will show as 1-2%. maybe there is a setting in the MFD to calibrate the 0/100% throttle voltages?

can u get to those screens with older versions without purchasing? anyway latest ecutalk software has switches in it if u cant get datascan going (bit harder to understand that datascan but the data is there)

Have 4 x 225/40/R18 Lexani tyres with what I guess is 50% tread (more/less in some places, think the suspension had slight camber). No idea how to measure tread but I've taken a couple of photos. They were on the car for around 7000kms (but i believe this included some drag strip use a few times). Taking up room, need them gone. Located at Blacktown. Contact via PM. Price: $150 ono?

another cheating way of adjusting idle is to have car warmed up, then watch AAC on consult and turn idle screw until its around 20-25. so depending if the AAC starts at ~20 (then u turn it until AAC starts to go up, then stop) or if it starts high (e.g. 40+) then you're turning it so AAC goes down until it stops going down. but this is when the car is running normally and just having minor issues, if there is something else causing high idle then this might not work. e.g. i used to have warm start stalls due to AAC being too high (40-50) as idle was set too low and not having enough room to catch falling idle.

does it work with the proper consult II? (I have one) does anyone have the EC section of the service manual for your specific ECU/engine?

is m35 significantly different to v35? (no longer sharing engine etc like r34/c34?) cause the v35 is on the blazt.II compatibility list

have u checked out the blazt/datascan II package for consult II cars? i dont think you have - maybe consult 1, but not consult II.

if you are happy with the car idling at 1500rpm then you can probably do without it...

higher than 110, maybe 115 or so. or maybe 125 or so if it actually has 'coolant' like it should and not 100% water. people think 100 is dangerous cause they know normal water under atmospheric pressure boils at this. but things change a lot with pressure and when you use coolant. the fan in my pulsar doesnt come on till 95C, thats how 'normal' those kind of temps are. i wouldnt be worried if you're hitting 100C, id only be worried if you're hitting temps you never have before, as that could indicate something has changed/is malfunctioning etc.

this is web programming, its always messy. suddenly your buffer goes from one variable to issues with storing it in the session and all that mumbo jumbo. and you're forgetting all the code that will ensure this only happens in the for sale forum, any logic for whether its only allowed in the original post or other posts, the code to actually get the original message and put it in said 'buffer', and then retrieve it and append before submitting new post, etc. so your 1 or 2 lines is probably closer to 100-200

lol, 1 or 2 lines, someones started early on the booze

0.3v is normal voltage when car is not warmed up. so the one reading that sounds right. 12v would be heater power. wideband can output narrowband signal (depends which you get) but i wouldnt be worrying about that till you work out the problem here.

most commonly they die at 0v or 0.3v (0.3v is also the volt it starts at often when u start car, before its heated up to temp...so make sure car was warm before assuming you have dead o2).

yep good here also, thanks

Is this a known issue? couldnt find any posts in this forum about it

you're lucky u dont have a silvia, on some of those you need to remove the whole plastic surrounds of the kickpanel to find it, since its floating, not attached to fuse box.

what month/year model is ur r32? not before sep 89 is it? if so connector might have been wired in at the ecu who put the nistune in? previous owner? ask them where the port is, if not in normal location?

could be any number of sensors. check throttle in engine bay is closing properly (throttle cable not too tight). but without hooking consult up, might take a while to work out.