NewKleer

got mine a while ago, took my sr20det from stock 7 to 10psi out of the box, exactly what i was after

time to buy a new tip. try get the brass wool type cleaner (like steel wool, but brass, or brass coloured) rather than wet sponge. if u take the tip out and take it to jaycar see if they can match anything up.

good to hear. heres a few pics on the layout of the pcb for the usb/serial one. the 4 blocks in the middle (and one down bottom left) are the jumpers to switch between usb/serial. top right chip is usb which ill hopefully be able to solder to pcb. waiting on parts (1-2 weeks) before i can test circuit, then go ahead with board manufacture if all is good.

will need to test circuit (mainly usb side) before boards are manufactured, and then do the construction guide etc, so realistically not till feb some time (and of course assuming theres nothing major goes wrong with any of it)

ive gone ahead and designed a combined usb/serial version that potentially can be used as either serial, usb, or both (with jumpers changing whether its serial or usb), which improves on all the points i listed above (except not worrying about point 4). only thing is if u want to have both usb and serial, to switch between them ud have to open the box (unless u drill a hole and maybe get those easy to change jumpers that have the extra plastic on it to make it longer so its easy to grab to remove, if anyone knows what i mean) the usb chip is a smd one (surface mount) so i might have to solder it to the board for usb versions as i cant imagine it being too easy for most people to do with normal soldering iron.

do r32 have variable voltage fuel pumps? if so might want to just check and make sure that ur voltage isnt dropping off when ur fuel pressure drops to 2.5. glad u found that out though! btw, id buy the fuel pump first, and see if that fixes it - FPR dont die as often as fuel pumps i dont think

ive found 2 more kits all ready to go that i didnt think i had (might have 1 or 2 more after this also, but need to check parts).

what did u use to crimp them? i dont have any crimping tools on hand (and i doubt most people would) but might be useful to get one if theres a cheap one that can do it

[email protected] say u want one, he'll give u bank details, deposit and give him ur address, and thats pretty much it.

its pretty difficult to put the nuts onto the connectors (ive not idea how ud do it without glueing them on, unless u just somehow use the existing holes where leds go thru as the nut). its pretty dam tight fit for the connectors to go together, so i dont think they fall off easily? and the idea is that u disconnect the consult cable from the box when not using it (to cut power etc)

have u done a fuel pressure check?

may do another batch later on, but realistically that wouldnt be before feb (the boards themselves may take up to a month to get done) would also want a bit more feedback on what would be good to improve if i was to. currently i have: 1. fix yellow led 2. make those 2 tight spaced components more room 3. more room so crystal can lay flat (look into low profile crystal) 4. look into 4024 14 pin counter (replace 4060 16 pin) 5. IC sockets rather than soldering into pcb (given pcb sits lower than i originally designed means theyll fit) 6. change pcb a bit where leds go to make it square (originally that cutout bit wasnt supposed to be cutout by pcb manufacturers) 7. dont use that stupid packaging tape as it leaves the boxes sticky! 8. finally, see how difficult it would be to put USB on same board

all functionality mentioned in the diy thread would apply here, as they do the same thing (convert the raw serial data and make it available on a com port, either actual (rs232) or virtual (usb) for software to access).

added digital value to gauges and made it full-screen-able (though not sure many people have car computers, but thought itd be good anyway to use up all screen real-estate) have a list of todo things on my website, whats there should take long enough to do, but if theres any notable omissions of features i should look at let me know

remember when testing, dont just jump straight on WOT to test it - at least give it 1/2 or 3/4 throttle just so when u go "shit, thats double my normal boost" you can stop quick enough before it does any damage. make sure u test in a highish gear so it doesnt all happen too quickly! (although id think this would all be common sense)

last one's yours! pm sent

colours that make up the gauges would be easy to change (something id add later on), but the structure of the gauge itself would be harder to change. a background image would also be hard given the gauge sizes change depending on how many gauges you have (to maximise the amount of screen used for the gauges)

just 1 remaining!

have made a bit more progress on software, see attachment need to add a digital reading to the bottom of the gauges, after i do that will try to make it able to go into "full screen", then move on to active tests. gauges were made so that the same gauge can be used in pocketpc app (hence why it looks a bit basic)

you can buy nissan datascan from caz also (i assume), best software overall. for free software, check software links section of this thread. theres a couple more threads going on about software (search forum for consult)

have u sold the boost gauge?

just received money for last assembled interface, this group buy is now over (a few more diy kits left though), thanks to everyone who took part.

sorry, left out the word "kit" - im not getting the assembled one. btw i asked earlier about anyone knowing about price for venturi pipe/exhaust clamp - http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/descrip...p?partno=IM3728 has them for $132 (best ive found so far)

just ordered a 2E0 + 7057, $370 all up

makes sense that higher duty cycle less impact the blast off time would have. what do you think the result would be with leaving blast off time for the 370, while using 440 injectors? (assuming you fix the K via consult). would it idle well enough? what percentage of typical idle injector pulse width is likely to be blast off time?