NewKleer

replied to pm regarding turbo/fuel pump

few more pics now i worked out how to focus the camera better! edit: added two more pics, of final board + cable. couple resistors missing from the board near led's, but apart from that its complete

went to dyno last night, ended up going from 105 to 112.5 kw (pretty much expected), but it was on coarse mode which was overkill - if i upgrade the turbo, cooler, fuel pump etc then ill probably disconnect and recalibrate it on fine mode before giving it another shot. dyno sheets here: 1 2 if i had more time id have leaned out the section at 3600-4000 a bit and focused more on lower end of scale, but was a good first attempt (first time ive been on a dyno) and will mean if i upgrade and so on ill be able to tune it better/quicker.

would have been easier to ask about that in my thread, but yes, it will

is the ca18 solenoid compatible with this?

i put one together the other night. found out that in my last minute rush to add the yellow led to the pcb when designing it, that i got it to hook up to ground instead of power (but being my first shot at custom pcb, surprised i didnt make any other mistakes). theres a workaround to fix this (cut a track and then solder two pins together with a bit of wire), but in my opinion its probably not important enough to worry about this LED - more important are the power one and the send from ecu (to pc) led. either way ill include needed parts and update the guide to explain how to fix this if for some reason yellow led is important. apart from that, im quite pleased about how its progressed so far. ill contact people individually about those who will be the guinea cops, but at a minimum ill need them to read the construction guide in advance and let me know if they think its clear enough to work off and so on. last thing im worried about is the voltage regulator and transistor being quite a tricky soldering job - the distance between the legs is quite small and would be easy to solder two legs together, so not sure what i can do to help with that. i spose if ur not confident in getting that done properly, i could probably solder them to the boards before sending off (just makes it hard to solder the shorter components though, ie they fall out of the holes easier if they arent flat against whatever youre soldering on). will be busy until next week so i dont imagine doing anything till then (and missing parts wont be here till around then), but ill contact those who've expressed interested about whether they want to be one of the first few to give it a shot and give me some feedback on construction at this stage i wont be looking to make pre-made ones (whole point of this was cause i didnt have time to make them all myself), but there may be others out there down the track that might put them together for a fee

heres my construction guide minus any photos. if anyone wants to have a read of it and let me know if, assuming they were making the board (and have the diagram pic as above - note "hood" on pic = C9 capacitor) whether they cant understand anything or would need some parts better written. i made one last night as a test (pic2 above), havent had time to actually try it yet though. missing two resistors near the leds on the right, but apart from that its finished construction.txt

found the same thing on my silvia ages ago - seems stupid! my r31 has the LED's to the back of the car, and even has holes in carpeting where u can read them thru and turn the screw on the ecu also. looks like theyve gone backwards since then

i should have all parts and pcb's sometime this week! edit: they came today! unfortunately wont have much time over next few days, but before end of week hope to make one and test it and see it all works well, but so far so good edit2: they mixed up the serial connectors so need to wait for proper ones to come

only thing is ive never actually heard an engine pre-ignite...should it be something that will sound very obvious, or will it take someone who knows what theyre listening for to hear it? and should it be decreased a bit less below when pre-ignition stops to account for other factors (eg hot days, bad fuel etc) or for the typical application is the timing advance going to be the major cause (and thus need an extremely hot day to get the heat alone to cause it to detonation?). i guess what im asking is what would be the minimal adjustment on the DFA to bring it back once detonation occurs...1 or 2, 10, etc? cheers

doesnt it tell you that in the documentation that comes with it? i just got my DFA installed today (rb20 nics redtop). i also put a switch in to bypass the DFA in case of problems, as mine at one stage when i was calibrating it just didnt work, then suddenly worked again later (and has since). one thing i noticed was the exhaust note was different with the DFA on (but no adjustments). it was like there were tiny variations in it, as if theyre were mini-misfires (but at the same time didnt sound that "bad"). im thinking i should use fine mode with DFA, as although my afr are probably around 10 or so, the range of the rb20 nics afm is 2.5-4V roughly (1.6v with IGN, 2.5 idle, max around 4 or so) so fine is probably, well, fine? how do u check for pre-ignition on a dyno (or in general?). do dynos have knock sensors/mics they hook up, or rely on the rich/retard drop in power? how far should u ease back once u get some pinging?

perhaps ask on r31skylineclub.com forum if u havent

could u put the original question back in ur post? not much point in there being a search function if answers found dont have corresponding questions, the forums arent all about helping people all individually (etc)

pcb's are in process of being manufactured, and ive ordered nearly all needed parts attached is a rough placement of components on a pcb, will closely resemble how the arrangement will be on final one (most are half a position off in x and/or y, but pretty close)

yep mines set to immediate. seems to be working now, except it sends a new email for every reply, regardless of when ive logged in last

yeh not getting any emails from any of this type of forum sounds like either a problem with ur computer/spam settings/email provider or isp

theres enough software out at the moment which means making any more isnt really worth the effort. for free software, calumsult and scantech nissan are a pretty good combo, add datascan if you dont mind paying for it at the start of this year i had a go at making a combined comms/consult access (for both pocketpc and desktop), and got ecu serial number, and reading sensors out of the way, but didnt have enough time to do the rom reading. main problem however is pocketpc graphical stuff is pretty limited and i had problems with it ill be looking to continue with that perhaps after this semester of uni, or i might have a go at an lcd display, havent worked out which yet. the lcd display would be more promising as it would be more of a permanent thing, whereas laptop software isnt something u use permanently, so its usefulness is limited aside from specific information gathering/diagnosis. my thesis is coming up at uni next year, so i was looking into possibilities to do something with consult for that. dont want to get too far ahead now, for the time being i want to get this kit happening before anything else

decided to rearrange it a bit and add in the send/receive leds out the other end of the connector. pics are a bit bigger this time. also put a lot more info on the pcb itself so it alone would be enough (if readable ) to put together as far as im concerned this will be final layout, excepting mistakes (and a check to make sure components will fit ok). sending this off to get checked by pcb manufacture place, id estimate a few weeks and itll be ready (if no mistakes or any problems arise)

heres some more pics. this is the final draft. board fits into box with connectors on end like in pic i posted above. also managed to to fit a power led on board, with a 3mm led and with a bit of bending (i imagine), it should be able to poke thru the little screw hole in serial connector, so that u can see the power is on before u connect the adaptor to the serial port of ur laptop, thus no drilling required close to definite that cost will be $50 + postage for final kit if all goes well

seems like im getting one per reply now, rather than only getting one until after i visit forums next

reset via consult is only the self-learn data afaik, do the unplug battery leave overnight/press brake thingy to reset ecu fully.

recieved 25 of the adaptor boxes (black) this week (ended up costing a bit more than a thought as i forgot to factor in exchange rate and shipping). at this point im estimating around 45$ for final thing, ill probably aim to make it an even $50 including postage (which i can buy in lots of 10 or something) external dimensions are roughly 70x42x20 (maybe 80 long when u factor in serial connectors on the ends), so roughly same as previous one but slimmer. hopefully this weekend i can have a shot at a final pcb layout for it

will notepad email you when theres a new reply? never knew it could do that

anyone else getting topic subscription emails a couple days late? just this morning i got one on time, then now i got a few from the weekend. see below: Received: from au3.sanitytechnology.com by imta04ps.mx.bigpond.com Mon, 12 Sep 2005 04:00:51 +0000 Received: from au3.sanitytechnology.com (localhost.localdomain [127.0.0.1]) by au3.sanitytechnology.com (8.13.1/8.13.1) Mon, 12 Sep 2005 14:00:51 +1000 Received: (from qmailusers@localhost) by au3.sanitytechnology.com (8.13.1/8.13.1/Submit) Sat, 10 Sep 2005 10:26:22 +1000

if ur in SA then wouldnt one from plms be easier (www.plmsdevelopments.com)? unless u prefer one without the box in middle of cable