NewKleer

i got whilsting when the intercooler pipe clamp had skipped a thread in the clamp (thus not very tight) and air was coming out. arent u able to listen for where the noise is from?

yeah i might just live with 13L/100kms for city driving...might see if the r33 service manual has ways to check other things like EGR, but it seems 13 isnt too bad. hopefully i can get highway driving under 10. im thinking of getting a pfc later on down the track, once ive paid fof remaining $600 on the car, and got some new tyres...but 11-20L highway isnt that good is it?

i didnt solder mine, i just chopped the plug off the ford sensor, stripped the wires the length that the cars plug (to ecu) accepts for the pins for the normal plug, and put the wires in these pin sockets on the plug, then taped it all up. not the most clean fix, but i had a stuffed plug (o2 sensor end) so couldnt attach wires directly to that

im not sure, it seems that most people are of the opinion that if the ford el sensor (3 wire) fits the thread, then u can use it. try unscrew urs, then put it back in (not too hard) then go down to repco, unscrew it (bring wet cloth), and take it to the counter and compare it with the el ford one? btw my fuel consumption is down to 13L/100kms from 15 and 17 last two times i filled, was hoping for less though. i think my ecu might be an auto one so perhaps something to do with that?

good question, and we all know the answer

bit old, but he may still have something: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...29222&hl=cefiro

is ur afm hooked up right? try unplugging it and going for a drive. not sure if that can do any damage, if u think it might, then try: turn car off. remove hardness from afm. turn key to on (dont think u need to start it), measure voltage between pin 3 (middle pin of the 5?) and negative terminal/earth. if 0v then no power getting to it. if thats ok, and u can be bothered getting to the ecu: turn car off, test continuity between pin 4 (when holding harness with connector stub facing upwards, its the 2nd pin from left i think) and ECU pin 26 if thats ok, test continuity between pin 2 and ECU pin 27 finally u can test voltage when car is idling between pin 27 and earth. should be ~1.1v pin 26 and 27 are the 6th and 7th pin in the top row, counting right from the middle screw thing when the ecu is lying flat (not sure which is top/bottom, try both if ur not sure problem may be wiring rather than a stuffed afm

try this: http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d46228460 ull have to find out the year - with any luck its 88/89 so u can import it. if u get it for 400k yen, ud probably get it here for about 11k $aud, which would be pretty sweet. if u have around 14k all up then it should be fine - the main thing is whether it will be a 88/89 model or not (88 = S63 in japan year system, 89 = H1)

turns out my o2 sensor had short circuited or something internally (resistance ~ 8 ohms), and melted the insultation off one of the wires, then melted the wire. so guess ill be needing a new o2 sensor does the EL Ford one fit the same thread? if so does anyone know how it's wired up?

this is readout from consult. are ECU's made as either MT or AT? if so, i think i may have a AT ecu ticket reads: SYSTEM: A/T DATE: 07/11/2004 17:50:37 P/#: 31036 - 52F00 SELF-DIAG RESULTS DTC RESULTS THROTTLE POSI SEN T/C CLUTCH SOL/V LINE PRESSURE S/V OVERRUN CLUTCH S/V

perhaps the dyno tune helped reduce it, but a new o2 sensor may help more? does consult on the ecu (brother who works at nissan thinks they may have consult computer thingy) tell u much, eg would u be able to tell from it if the o2 sensor is dead?

ill check the fuel pressure hopefully sometime next week. as for o2 sensor, ive read different places where you can get cheaper ones (from falcon or something?) that work just as good? also ill reset the ecu tonight - didnt think of that till now, but it may help?

Just filled up the rb25 silvia ive got and found out its doing over 17L per 100kms. This is just gentle driving around the suburbs, no highway, so that could partially explain it, but its still off the scale. Would a dyno tune help diagnose the problem? Possibly oxygen sensor? Is it possible to test the o2 sensor without just buying another and seeing if it works better? Considering the silvia weighs a couple hundred kilos less than a skyline, fuel consumption should be even better one would assume, so im keen to try and work out what the problem with this is. 91 Silvia Q's with Rb25DET (from '96 R33 afaik) RB25 gbox 2.5" exhaust Boxed pod filter Running 10psi vis bleed valve FMIC (600x300x65)

thanks

just wondering if this is normal, when stepping on the accelerator fully from coasting, boost gauge goes a bit past 10psi, then drops back and stays constant...is this a concern at all? (turbosmart bleed valve on stock rb25det engine afaik)

he gets all his tips from paul walker

logic doesnt hold, when rice is involved! (poetry++)

guys i figured out why he gets higher speed with higher boost! he's using tyres that expand when they heat up (some drag cars have this?). with the extra power he's getting, with the added excitement that he's gonna "double clutch" like in the movies, he performs his (incorrectly named) double clutching in each gear, he's spinning the wheels and getting another few cms diamater in the tyres with more heat than he could with the less power, therefore high speed in 2nd gear!! (as for "granny shifting" claims, as if ur granny shifting ur not even really reaching full boost before changing, i dont see how he's getting 0-100 in 6s with that, man imagine the car when it hits full boost!!)

lets see if i have this right, (sound/wankfactor aside)...anything ive missed? Atmos BOV: For: 1) keeps turbo happy 2) less gear change lag than all (with a/m computer) 3) doesnt insert hot (from compression) air back into intake Against: 1) afm counts more air then really there - need aftermarket computer to stop rich gear changes 2) illegal (due to emissions, ie running rich on gear changes?, and/or noise pollution?) Plumback BOV: For: 1) keeps turbo happy 2) less gear change lag than no bov? 3) doesnt mess up afm readings, wont make run any richer on gear changes 4) legal Against: 1) inserts hot air into intake, (= slightly less power due to less air density) No BOV For: 1) more legal than atmos (may be illegal due to emissions on gear change?) Either way: 1) mildly heats air into intake, not as much as plumback (from chopping + recompression of air that went back thru turbo) Against: 1) turbo wont be happy due to chopping 2) gear change lag 3) counts air twice on gear change (= runs rich unless a/m computer?)

guess itd be a pretty big job, especially with limited room in the silvia (thermo fan is missing the pulley by about 5-6mm). not sure exactly what is making the noise? the tappets scaping or something as they move?

oops think i did a search for something and didnt realise how old it was, it was near the top of the search results :X

Hi my rb25det silvia seems to have a slight tapping noise in the engine, that my brother seems to think may be the exhaust cam tappet/hydraulic valve lifter in cyl 6. How do we adjust the clearance on this?

they were gone in 60 seconds the first time, when the trap wasnt set. the second time, they may well have been gone from there in 60 seconds too, just the road blocks were a bit further down the roads its the media, of course they wont let preciseness get in the way of using a good phrase!

thanks for the vid (and avatar )

i think theyre supposed to test at around 3/4 of the redline for engineers certificate for my rb25 silvia, it test was carried out at 5625 (3/4 of 7500) and did 89.5 dBa on (what i think is) a 2.5" full exhaust with canon (exhaust pics here)...this is nsw though, not sure on differences with vic