NewKleer

yep with the ecutalk cable/software u can do that, start car, connect cable, start program, choose COM port, select sensors, check the log button, and display the gauges. it then logs all data to a txt file the same place the ecutalk exe is. if ur laptop runs out of battery then it would still have however much of the logs were saved before it shutdown

the display itself doesnt yet (that should hopefully be there in the future...first bit of adjustments, fuel/ignition timing, will be in next firmware). of course u can use the display as a consult cable with the supplied usb cable, so u can still do it with free conzult or other software that does base idle mode (obd scantech?). will hopefully have your display ready by monday basho (hopefully today), will email you to confirm when its done

obd scantech is definite worth giving a shot before you do spend $ on any program (it used to cost money, but a year or so ago they made it free).i normally tell anyone to wait a month after they get a cable before spending $ on software (gives time for the novelty to wear off, and then theyll know whether they will use it often, or just for the occasional checkup).

plms deveopments (google) host the protocol documents on their website in consult interface->diy section somewhere

that u can change the maps etc without burning/replacing chips, opening the ecu, etc. not so much of an advantage if you only get it tuned once, but for retuning later and whatever, definitely easier. it retains the consult port like other daughterboard/remap setups do (as opposed to replacement ecu like powerfc/microtech/etc which lose consult port), so any consult devices/displays should still work as normal.

http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=291737 there are also a couple more on aus300zx. also one on ebay

that page seems to indicate (as shown by the cross thru the consult terminal icon) that if you dont have consult you can enter base idle just by disconnecting TPS. i thought there were more steps but maybe not. or u could just get a consult cable and do it via software base idle mode.

ive never done it the manual way (something like disconnect tps and rev past 2k three times? dont know), easier to do it via consult cable/software (eg free version of conzult has it).

odb scantech is pretty good, lots of features and recently became free (used to be $$)

if your not in base idle/timing mode then the ecu just adjusts the AAC to compensate?. e.g. u turn the idle down it opens the AAC more. turn it up it opens it less. though i would have thought at some point there should be a difference, but ive never personally tried doing it all the way one way or another.

that was mearcat. i think thread for it is still in group buy forum, probably closed by now. nope, consult doesnt give u knock reading, neither does it have oil temp or oil pressure or boost.

as for real vs actual, powerfc is a replacement ecu, not a 'signal bender' like a SAFC or emange or whatever, so the voltage it shows is real

yeah thats it, quite a while ago now i think

yep if it sits on any single value (but often close to 0v or 0.3v) when car is cruising then its dead. most people dont change them often enough (theyre supposed to be changed like every 40-80'000km i think, but most people are lucky to change them once in the cars lifetime).

the o2 sensor is a narrowband sensor, which basically means its either reporting 'richer than 14.7:1' or 'leaner than 14.7:1', it doesnt really ever sit on 0.5v but is continually going back and forth as ecu continually fine tunes the fuel around the 14.7:1 point. so when cruising along, the correct behaviour would not be constant at 0.5v, but rather back and forth from close to 0v and to 1v (even if its reading 0.1v, this may not a whole lot leaner than 14.7:1, and likewise even 0.9v isnt too much richer than 14.7:1)

not sure whats up with ur screenshot, all the sensors there show 0 anyway, 0.3v o2 sensor generally means its dead (assuming its warm). when u rev the engine a bit at idle u should see it move around when engine is warm, if it doesnt react then its dead best way to tell is log a run and then graph the sensor afterwards (or just look at the readings), it should be moving quite a bit from 0.1v up to 0.9v and back and forth when cruising/light load, and generally moving about to 0.9v on power etc.

dont forget u have a remap...maybe that has messed up ur economy. was ur o2 sensor dead before? does it work now? otherwise u may have just replaced a good one with a good one?

the only question i have is "are you sure". i know what you've described is how you get the fault codes, but ive never heard it resets the learned parameters in the ECU? where did you read that? (i guess i should look in the service manual myself).

knowing how much fuel ur using and when is probably one of the best ways to save fuel

yep, assuming the consult code is still intact (in theory its possible to modify a rom to stop consult working, e.g. to protect someone from downloading your rom). fortunately i havent heard of any daughterboards/remaps etc losing consult capabilities (if anything only rom reading support, but even then most commerical tunes i dont remember hearing they disabled rom read). so should be all good

is impul a daughterboard (still using stock ecu)?

if u buy a serial ecutalk cable on ebay, before u pay send a message, say u want a usb/serial and one can be sent for extra $5 added to invoice. its the 'a111 usb serial' as mentioned in item description, 3foot long roughly. the only issue with usb/serial converters is some of them dont work reliably (and FTDI based ones, which is the chip used in the usb cable, are expensive).

well if u want to go in the GB i can do a full refund (paypal refunds fees also), might take 3-5 days to go back on CC, and u can get it later in group buy (probably start next month i imagine), or i can continue with it as normal and send it out by monday

theres a GB on aus300zx at the moment

yeah, thats why it was made, so u dont need to lug a laptop around to monitor the car. firmware updates require the display be connected to the car to get power, so youd either need to get the PC within a couple metres of the car, or borrow a laptop. of course u dont need to upgrade the firmware if it has nothing new that you want to use. also in future if there is logging ability to sd card, you would need power to download the logs also. if you're that way inclined, u can just buy a 12v dc adaptor and a female consult port from wreckers (or i have a spare one for $10 i can send with display) and rig that up for 12v power