cuppas

...wait. you dont know whether yours is turbo or non turbo? -______-" follow the inlet pipe from the airbox to the turbo. pics!

fuel pump haha are you planning on dropping in the RB ecu with it? also... is there any special reason for the RB25? wouldnt SR20 swap be easier to undertake and engineer? im assuming that if you can find an RB through work, you can find a good SR...

if youre not getting much oil out when you drain it, and the level wasnt reading low... you might have a sludged up engine...

haha i only learned from a guy at work has an 80s turbo charade backyard performance to the max =D

check the plugs tight too though. when youre refilling the coolant, make sure the heater is turned up to full when the car is running.

yeah she'll be right

yeah. different composition, i forget what of they expand much more when hot...

whats your head gasket like?

why bother waiting for oil and water temps to reach optimum? the oils you use are multigrade winter-suitable oils... the coolant is designed to transfer heat away from the head etc... the ecu is programmed to fuel differently at different temperatures... as for oil on the walls... the piston rings are supposed to keep the oil on one side and the combustion on the other... on downstrokes theyre designed to angle slightly to scrape oil off the cylinder walls... if im wrong, someone please correct me on this im thinking the only time you really need to let your car idle for a while is with forgies that get piston slap at cold temps

take it back to them, make a scene return with correct ones.

i always thought HICAS steered opposite the direction of the front wheels at low speeds to give better turning circle... and a few degrees with the fronts at higher speed, apparently to give more stability but either way, remove all the pumps and hoses, get a HICAS lock out bar... and its like it never existed =O

i would say trailer it, outlay on tires getting to and fro might eventually outweigh extra cost of going mechanical lsd

at work we use vmx80 gear oil for gearboxes and lsx90 for diffs. these go in everything from navaras to 350Zs, so im thinking it might be ok for you cant be sure what amount for each... we pump them straight out of the barrel... theres probably gonna be better and cheaper options for you though edit- keep in mind im vague as at work though, i could be wrong

im thinking wheel alignment issues check your tyres for feathering on the outer edges of the tread. run your hand one way across the tyre, then back again if theres more resistance going one way its an alignment issue ...that or you did hit a kid and bent a control arm but dont want to tell anyone

it runs just like a rotary, i swear

run it like backyard performance... remove the mesh entirely =D youve already got an air filter, no?

are you sure you want to skimp on these?

any photos of a larger area of the engine bay?

could it be a fueling issue?

fixed.

pfffft, go some auto 2.6L magna stock up on head gaskets, too but why not make the car handle and stop better first?

check where the plug actually contacts the globe. could be loose or broken or dirty im thinking

read the book too. its by hunter s thompson, gonzo journalism at its finest

theres totally a place free at my work... one of the first years got sacked for taking money from cars a couple weeks back... we started the year with four, now its just nate and me lol

put the car up again, grab a leadlight and have a good look at the area its coming from find the highest spot where theres oil, that should be where the leak originates