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My R888R's (successor to the R888, which is the same compound as the NT01 but different tread pattern) are pretty sketchy in the rain on the street. I certainly wouldn't recommend them as an all around street tyre despite being 'street legal'. Light drizzle is ok but proper rain and/or pooling water is a no-no. I think it's different on the track where you can get some heat into them but cold R comps in heavy rain on the street are dangerous IMHO. This is based on my experience with this single tyre only, perhaps others fare better.

Does it actually leak, or is it just cosmetic damage? I've spent hours straightening the fins with a screwdriver on my IC but never had any issues with leaks at the cooler.

Cheers mate, looks good. I'll have a play with the one I already bought but in case that doesn't work I might be in touch Ok you've lost me here, I'm not sure how the PCV system works on the RB25DET Neo...? All I was going to do is replace the rubber joiner between the LH cam cover and Scotty's intake pipe with a length of hose out to the (sealed) catch can and back, like so: ^^^ Is this a reasonable setup? Also speaking of hose, all that SuperBarn had in 16mm was heater hose so that's what I got, anyone else running the same? I know it's not ideal for oil but still better than the kinked clear eBay hose I'm hoping.

The level setting is a % of maximum, not the actual boost. Start a low setting and work up from there. You can find my settings here, I'm running 1.4bar on an SS2: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23649-help-required-on-using-my-blitz-dual-sbc/?do=findComment&comment=7801321 Are you replacing an existing boost controller or starting from scratch? If latter, make sure your tune is providing enough fuel for the boost level you want to run. EDIT: Mine's the older model, your settings may vary but I'm guessing the logic might be the same

Cheers mate. Some people have modded this type of catch can by placing stainless steel scrubber pad inside the baffle/coalescing chamber of the unit: ^^^ I'm not convinced that that's the right place though, most sources seem to suggest that the steel wool/scrubber should be at the bottom of the can, with a cross-drilled pipe running from the dirty side to the bottom, like this:

Nah I think white should be fine for street use, especially if you get them professionally prepped and powder coated. Also if you go for a mountain run or something you can wash the rims before and after if you're concerned. I did mine in the backyard so the paint finish is not quite the same

Haha, yes. Re blowby, I'm following Tao's recommendation here, he suggested the oil is likely coming from the breather. We'll see.

Yeah totally. The first test will be to determine whether 1) there's something in the catch can and 2) whether that clear up the drop of oil at the comp housing. If both are true good, if 1 = true but 2 = false, I'll look at adding some baffling Here's some decent looking guides for adding baffling and filter media: http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=38308 & http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-how-tos-installations/485682-how-another-diy-catch-can-mod-dual-baffles-extended-inlet-tube.html I'm surprised that eBay selection is so crappy, even the more expensive ones advertised as 'baffled' almost never show the internals to see if they actually are.

I've got standard R34 GTT rims in both colours, white for the street and satin black for the track. Yes white do get dirty fast but I like the contrast against the body colour. One thing to watch out for with white is your brake pads, I had Remsas before and they're some dusty mofos. The current Intima SR's are heaps better. Also if you ever track your car white is not great, the brake dust can 'bake in' to the paint at those higher temperatures. Black is always a good choice too, looks tough. Also optically white always looks larger than black (contrast again) but at 19" that won't really matter Please post some photos once you decide.

Nice, I like the front bar! This is in the US yes, whereabouts?

Fair points. Yes I had most of the intake piping off the other week to replace intercooler-to-crossover rubber joiner. I couldn't see much residue in the plumbing or the crossover pipe. This said I didn't pull off Scotty's intake pipe or the silicone expander going into the turbo intake - I'd imagine having some oil on these parts if it's from the breather. Re catch can as a diagnostic too, that's exactly what I want it for. Rather than pulling the breather-to-intake hose and venting into atmo, it'd be good to have something there to confirm if that's where the oil is coming from. I hope it's not an issue with the comp cover, I'd really hate to pull off the turbo since it was just off for the HG replacement... This is the type of catch can I ordered (second on the list above), it still seems to do 'something' without any additional baffling or filtering (and can be improved if need be):

Thanks Greg, good info. Though no way am I paying $400 for a catch can lol - my approach is to go the cheap option first, try to patch it up, and only then pay the full price for the thing I should have bought in the first place I saw the photo of your crossover pipe, that was a lot of oil. I'm not sure how that much oil could make it though the intercooler without leaving a trace at the comp cover though? Maybe your front housing is structured differently to the SS2?

Good to hear. Have you got photos of the scalloping and other damage to the tyre?

Very hard to argue a manufacturing flaw with tyres. I had inner sidewall cracking on two fully paid sets of Goodyear Eagle F1 A2's and even so it was like drawing blood from a stone to get the second set replaced with another brand, took months and months. Not really worth it. What I would do though is thoroughly inspect all tyres for unusual wear or marks, and also check the rear suspension for signs of scrubbing or scuffing. Last thing you want is to replace the tyre(s) and have another issue. Do you have good alignment and all the wheels fully balanced? Do you check pressures regularly? Do you rotate your tyres? These will all help get more life out of your tyres.

So the passenger door lock is playing up again, annoying. I just pulled it apart but can't see anything wrong; it's a convoluted mechanism but all the arms seem to be connected correctly. I'm not sure if my replacement actuator is a dud (or just old), or whether there's something else wrong with the mechanism. It seems like the actuator doesn't 'trigger' consistently when the central locking is engaged or disengaged. I wonder if it could be a power/wiring fault...? Anyone else had this issue in their R34, any suggestions?

Thread revival time. I'm getting a drop of oil under my comp cover and I reckon it's due to blow by, so a catch can is probably the go. eBay is mental with options so I thought I'd tap into the hive mind – any recommendations? I think what I need is the following: Decent capacity 300-500ml Cylinder shape, max 9cm diameter x 20cm height (installing next to the battery in the R34 bay) Some way of checking how much oil is in there Perhaps internal filter Some baffling but not too much Preferably openable Big enough fittings to suit factory diameter hose (16mm hose ID) No atmo venting Decent quality, no leaks Aus stock Here's a bit of a shortlist of what I've found: $35.99 - cheapest 'D1 spec' style but no baffles, plus a bad review $76.80 – seems like nice design but small volume, prob 200-300ml? $79.00 – good design with internal filter, however 19mm fittings a bit too big, and no tank to speak of? Thanks guys. Also here's a pic of the oil collecting:

Thanks Tao, I was wondering about that, makes sense. Yes it's got the standard breather setup plumbed into (Scotty's) induction pipe. Looks like the engine might be breathing a bit more oil then after the recent head gasket change. Should I be looking at a catch can? Also if the turbo oil seal was damaged, I'm guessing it would be leaking at the core right (not at the comp cover)?

I've had this small issue recently with my ATR43-SS2 (2013) where I occasionally find a drop of oil underneath the front housing. I have checked the water and oil lines and they are all fine and tight. I've also been conscious to wipe the housing clean each time in an effort to pinpoint where it's coming from. I took the photo below just then, you can see a bit of oil collecting at the edge of the housing and right under one of the housing bolts. It also looks a little wet right around the bolt so I'm wondering if that's the cause? I chucked a 13mm socket in there and tightened it a touch (it turned easy enough) but didn't want to overdo it as I don't know the torque specs. @hypergear Tao have you seen these turbos spring a leak there before? What's the torque specs on the housing bolts? Cheers

See page one of this thread for the seal kit

It you really want to run a single set only get AD08R or similar. Not as hardcore as the NT01 but also unlike them actually good for both street and track. Otherwise a dedicated second set of rims and tyres or the track would be a good call.

^^^ What he said. Genuine = expensive but works 100%, that's what I got when my old O2 sensor died.

This article lists it as street legal in Australia: http://www.ozzytyres.com.au/blog/the-nitto-nt-performance-and-invo-tyre-range/ Also Toyo refers to the R888 as street legal on their site, it's the same compound as NT01 (though different tread pattern): http://toyotires.com.au/tyres/motorsport-tyres/item/20-proxes-r888 Neither is really a street tyre though, my R888R's are super noisy at freeway speeds and wear a lot faster than my KU36's. Also they pick up a lot of debris from the street because of the soft compound, so I certainly wouldn't run them as the primary tyre on a street or mixed use car.

Not a Skyline but that's one pretty hasty 6cyl Mustang... From here: http://www.stangtv.com/news/upr-resets-the-ecoboost-mustang-quarter-mile-record-again/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=upr-resets-the-ecoboost-mustang-quarter-mile-record-again

Smart plan! I'm hoping to do the same I have signed up for Sandown on the 26th, fingers crossed all of last year's issues are fully sorted. If you end up dropping by look for the silver 34 sedan with black wheels

Thanks for this list! I'm not sure if this thread is for SAU days only but Tampered are running an Australia Day session at Sandown in case anyone else is keen on going, I've signed up Also is anyone organising Calder this year, can't see it one the list? It was a fun track (bar the speed barriers) and close to the city.