V28VX37

Duncan sorry to bombard you but since you're the expert on this setup, have you run this ok with ABS? Also with the dog bones/adapters, any chance they would suit R34 GTT or would you need to re-drill or re-tap them or the uprights? From memory R32/33 might be 12mm bolts whereas 34 is 14mm (or vice versa)?

You prefer more even camber? Why yes

Been following your build, very nice car. GLWS

Rotors sold, thanks Chris!

Well since we are way off topic anyway, why not a 2JZ Cressida then: http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/11/certified-classic-a-2jz-powered-cressida-for-the-street/

Yep a new insert (shock body) is the go, I've replaced each of my rears now. Can you see any leaks? If so it's well gone. Also when mine went (and I didn't realise it for a while, doh) there was 0 resistance on the piston, you could easily move it back and forth by hand.

Hey man, probably easier to pick up, let's organise by PM

Half moon obstruction ring spanner - Take that you pesky inaccessible fourth turbo nut you! It's not quite perfect, still jams against the turbo front outlet, but better than nothing...

Closing this thread, please see new thread here: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468550-fs-r34-gtt-gt-brake-boosters-bm50-bm44-bmc-dba-t3-310mm-rotors-an10-hoses-r34r33-transmission-parts-mel/

FS: R34 GTT & GT brake boosters, BM50 & BM44 BMC, DBA T3 310mm rotors, AN10 Hoses, R34/R33 transmission parts [MEL] Replacing my previous for sale thread with this updated one, here goes. For sale: 1. R34 GTT brake booster with BM50 master cylinder – $100 2. R34 GT brake booster with BM44 master cylinder – $100 3. DBA T3 4000 310mm rotors x2 for R34 GTT front, worn – $80 for the pair 3. Leaky Driftworks braided oil cooler hoses with crimped AN10 fittings, for spares – $30 4. R34/R33 transmission parts – $80 See below for details. All parts in Melbourne near Essendon, pick up only. PM if interested. --- 1. R34 GTT brake booster with BM50 master cylinder – $100 I was going to replace mine with this but my issue was elsewhere. Was sent to me as a working unit but I haven't tested it, you're welcome to inspect in detail The plastic fork collar is cracked on one side (see photos) but this shouldn't affect operation The master cylinder doesn't have BM50 stamped on it, however the outer diameter is the same as the BM50 on my GTT so I trust it's the same unit --- 2. R34 GT brake booster with BM44 master cylinder – $100 This was sent to me by mistake when I was after the GTT booster+master. Was sent to me as a working unit but I haven't tested it, you're welcome to inspect in detail This is in slightly cleaner condition than the GTT BM50 The BM44 BMC outer diameter is slightly smaller than the BM50 --- 3. DBA T3 310mm rotors – $80 Rotor are about 2 years and 20,000 old, with several track days on them I believe one of the rotors is slightly warped, it's fine for street use but does vibrate in hard braking (runouts are 0.10mm and 0.04mm) No visible cracks or significant heat stress marks on the surface Rotor thickness 29.1mm (new 30mm, minimum 28mm) --- 4. Leaky Driftworks braided oil cooler hoses with crimped AN10 fittings, for spares – $30 Hose lengths are 115cm and 135cm This is heavy duty braided hose about ~25mm outer diameter The AN10 hose fittings for each hose are 90 degree elbow at one end and a straight one at the other. The fittings need a good clean. Caveat emptor: These hoses leak at the straight end, so you'll need to replace those two crimped hose end fittings. Standard Speedflow etc. AN10 fittings won't do because this hose OD is larger than the Speedflow AN10 hose. --- 5. R34/R33 transmission parts – $80 RB25DET manual transmission parts: $50 - R33 Series 2 fuse box to gearbox wiring loom $40 - R33 GTS-t manual coupe tail shaft rear part $20 - R34 turbo gearbox clutch fork (pull type) RB25DET automatic transmission parts: $25 - R34 GTT auto brake pedal $40 - R34 GTT auto sedan tail shaft front part Or $80 for the lot of trans parts. --- Notes: All prices ono and all parts in Melbourne near Essendon, pick up only. Only items specifically listed above are available, there are some in the photos that are gone

Issue 1 is now resolved, it was a boost leak at the intercooler to intake elbow joiner. More info: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468422-silicone-joinerreducer-pn-for-top-intake-pipe-to-elbow-rb25det-neo/ Re issue 2, if anyone knows how to flatten the boost curve using this EBC I'm all ears. Here's how it looks like at the moment: (Output 275rwkw @ ~20psi, BP 98 Octane (red line) / Without airbox lid, snorkel and filter: 285rwkw (top blue line))

I reckon it's awesome but would be pretty tough to engineer for rego I'm guessing

Fair enough Very good points Bill. Those N/A times are insane, must be a great driver and a very well sorted car. It must be so much easier on all parts carrying that much less weight around, which should help with reliability. So I think my ideal track car then is a fully sorted 200rwkw turbo MX5 NA pre-1992 in club plates so you can drive to/from events. For $10k please

Also Andy is the runout that much on both rotors? Did you measure it with all 5 wheel nuts torqued to the same level?

Nice kit! Something to add to the shopping list perhaps is rear traction arms, they'll help counter bump steer in a lowered setup. Here's some more info from when I was looking into that: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448509-wheel-alignment-question-car-feeling-more-skittish/?do=findComment&comment=7570413 Re Sandown, I'm pretty keen on the Tempered session on Australia Day, might see you there

Sounds like R34 adapters to me? I thought all K-sport kits were meant to be plug and play, I wouldn't go drilling just yet. Also that's massive runout, I had heaps of vibration at just 0.10mm in a 310mm disc, you'll need to get that sorted. Here's my mission from last week with some tips: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448613-r34-gtt-brake-improvement-without-breaking-the-bank/?do=findComment&comment=7803377

You can't tell the centre from the housing unfortunately. Maybe get some decent diff oil and just change it to to see if that does anything. If it's still clunky/chirpy around tight corners it's probably a mechanical centre.

Won't fit without a miracle, I wouldn't waste their time. Look up the King Springs catalogue and it'll list different part numbers for each make and model. The Monaro is a much heavier car with a non-coilover rear setup.

Have you got your gearbox breather hose installed? Maybe hook up a small bottle onto it - if it spits stuff out it was overfilled (doh), if not perhaps you need to add some more. Here's what mine looks like: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249950-gear-box-breather/?do=findComment&comment=7367320 Re diff, yours sounds like a mechanical unit, do you know which one it is? I use Motul Gear Competition 75W140 Gear & Differential Oil in my Nismo 1.5-way.

I got bored the other day so did some quick power-to-weight calculations: Given that the 4door is about 1430kg dry with a manual box (according to 'sources' aka the internets) my current power-to-weight is roughly 192rwkw per tonne. To get to the same in an MX5 you'd need: NA series – 180rwkw NB – 204rwkw NC – 213rwkw So naturally aspirated is pretty much out the window. Given the size of the donk you'll probably need forgies too = $$. For comparison, in an S13 you'd need 235rwkw, which should be reasonably easy with a sorted SR20DET? So perhaps OP already has the perfect track car? Obviously power-to-weight is just part of the equation, but still...

Ok the RDAs are in. The first impressions are that (unsurprisingly) they feel exactly the same as the DBAs, minus the vibration under heavy braking. My Intima SRs are still squealy, perhaps a touch quieter but now it's noisy on both sides, not just on the right. Also these pads like a bit of heat to start working properly. Pro tip: Get a dial indicator before swapping rotors! Here's the cheapo one I got, it comes with the base and holder, works a treat: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/0-10mm-Dial-Indicator-Gauge-Magnetic-Base-Holder-0-01mm-Resolution-/262248550292 I didn't do this when slapping on the DBAs, and whilst I've had a myriad of other issues along the way (factory backing plates roasting rotors on the inside, stuck caliper pistons, overheating LH brake line due to lack of turbo heat shield, lack of brake cooling etc.) I'm pretty sure not checking runout and oscillation originally has contributed to the reduced useful life of the rotors. I spent fair while cleaning the hubs and spacers, here's the final measurements: Left: runout 0.03mm, oscillation 0.075mm Right: runout 0.025mm, oscillation 0.07mm Note that the minute gap between the hub centre and the rotor contributes to oscillation and can be adjusted under some circumstances. For instance on my car the LH oscillation was 0.12mm if I just sat the rotor on the hub and tightened it where it naturally sat. Pulling the rotor upwards whilst tightening reduced oscillation by two thirds, down to 0.075mm, meaning that the rotor is centred on the hub better. I was worried about my wheel bearing(s) being buggered because of track work and using spacers but luckily they seem ok, it was good to have the measurements to confirm. Two good brake instalation threads for reference: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362526-diy-skyline-front-big-brake-install/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414681-diy-replacing-pads-and-rotors-on-d2g4attkd-etc-8-piston-brakes/ Here's a great summary form the first one on what you should be checking and why by Checkbuzz: Also here's the key torque specs and runout numbers from the R34 workshop manual for future reference: Wheel nut torque: 103 - 122 Nm Front caliper mounting bolt: 152 - 154 Nm The runout limit is 0.07mm. Oscillation limit is not specified. R34 workshop manual page SD-27: R34 workshop manual page SD-28:

An interesting thread, thanks for sharing. Reminds me of the Speedhunters story on UAE: http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/01/through-my-lens-car-culture-in-the-uae/ Out of curiosity, is this just a side project for you or do you work on cars for a living?

^^^ Good shopping list. That said, what's that all up, 3-4k + labour + tune? So with all new parts + workshop labour & workshop tune you're looking at not far off the going price for an older automatic R34 GTT. Not sure how that'll work if you're broke, ain't a cheap game...

Unless you measured how much came out, how do you know how much to put in if filling from the top? Also I'll second the above, breaker will work. Also the drain plug is NOT 1/2" but metric, even though everyone uses 1/2" drive on it. You can get a right size key off ebay, mine came from the UK.

That is correct, I had 200rwkw wit my R34 auto and it was fine. At 257rwkw it wasn't and started slipping bad plus the bigger turbo was off the boil for most of the time so very laggy and s--t drivability. I converted the car to manual and it's night and day with the same turbo, currently at 275rwkw. My recommendation is to install Nistune, a boost controller and supporting mods and tune the car for the max boost the stock turbo can make. This makes a drivable 200rwkw that is responsive and still fun in the auto. Beyond that you need to build the box plus probably high stall or go manual conversion. Gets expensive quickly. 200rwkw can be a more fun that 275rwkw if it's more accessible.