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V28VX37

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Everything posted by V28VX37

  1. V28VX37
    And yes the eliminator kit makes the lock bar redundant
  2. V28VX37
    Yep my Hicas bushes were shagged and I still had Hicas, the eliminator kit gets rid of both in one hit. Easy to install too, except removing the OEM steel sleeved bushing, which is always a pita.
  3. V28VX37
    You may find it easier just to eliminate Hicas completely: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131671639600 Also to answer my own question from earlier, I ended up buying a grease gun off ebay and used some generic EPL2 grease on the front tie rod ends, seems fine.
  4. V28VX37
    Resurrecting a really old thread. I've had a Blitz Dual SBC for quite some time and I was wondering what settings others are using? Here's my setup (with older Hypergear SS2 internally gated): 1. 30 2. 35 3. 45 4. 55 M 0 --- 1.55 warn C 2 P 10 Gain 12 I normally run the car in the high boost setting 4 (ratio 55). I have a couple of minor issues with this setup: 1. I used to get just shy of 1.4bar in setting 4 but seem to get around 1.3bar now. Granted this is in hotter ambient temps but I wonder if the recent head gasket replacement has anything to do with it? Can I just crank up the setting to increase boost safely? The car was originally tuned for 1.4bar. 2. The boost level bleeds down by about 2-3psi from peak to the top of the rev range. Is there a combination of ratio/gain/scramble boost settings that could help keep this more steady? Or is this just a natural limitation of the IWG? Cheers guys
  5. V28VX37
    Sold: 1. Coil packs 2. R34 GTT coupe steering rack with around 80,000kms on it, off a 1998 car. – $90 5. Davies Craig 678 Hydra-Cool Transmission Oil Cooler - Universal, 8 Cylinder – $80 These are still available: 3. For sale used leaky Driftworks braided oil cooler hoses with crimped AN10 fittings, for spares – $50 4. For sale R34/R33 transmission parts – $100
  6. V28VX37
    Indeed. Mine's making that with SS2 internally gated at around 20psi on 98.
  7. V28VX37
    Can be hard to find, good luck. Also from my experience coupe and sedan racks are different, so good to specify which one you're after.
  8. V28VX37
    Yep national holidays today and tomorrow Tuesday mate. This is what an aftermarket front/dump pipe looks like, you can see the standard O2 (narrow band) bung location on the top:
  9. V28VX37
    Is this just to save the trouble of welding in another bung? Probably not worth it. My Innovate wideband does have a pass through for the signal but like 89CAL said who knows how different the calibrations are. Also it shouldn't be that close to the turbo, mine is at the bottom of the dump on the top side. I still run the standard O2 sensor at the top of the dump for the ECU.
  10. V28VX37
    ^^^ Looks very lonely and neglected Someone please call the RSPCT!!
  11. V28VX37
    Nah 28.9mm of thickness left on the old ones, I don't think so. Also they've got Nissan castings so they may in fact be the original rotors from 1998 (!). Options are RDA at about $200/pair or slotted DBA T3's for about $400/pair. I'm not convinced that the DBA's are twice as good, it's really just a glorified heat sink right?
  12. V28VX37
    Hundred percent. He's gone a dry sump setup now, hopefully less dramas in the future.
  13. V28VX37
    Are you talking about the gauge pod on top of the centre console? That's definitely interchangeable, I've got a couple pod in my sedan, which came with the flip screen sat nav from factory. Somehow I thought coupe and sedan had a different windshield rake, which could affect the dash, good to hear that's not the case.
  14. V28VX37
    Nice. Price?
  15. V28VX37
    Sidetrack but the new owner is racing my old Monaro and it's onto its third or fourth LS now so they're not bulletproof either... Granted he's pushing close to 400rwkw naturally aspirated in a high G environment but still.
  16. V28VX37
    Thanks mate. I might even check my old plain rotors, if there's enough meat left might give them a go. Currently aiming for the 20 Jan MX5 day at Sandown, keen to check out them go karts too
  17. V28VX37
    Rotors were taken off to the machine shop today but they wouldn't skim them, combination of runout & not enough meat left. Sounds like this may be the end of tracking these rotors, sucks as they're only halfway worn and they don't look too bad but then again they did last a couple of years. They're fine for the street though. In terms of replacements, can RDA blanks be tracked safely, or am I better off getting the same DBA T3's again? Or is there another budget option?
  18. V28VX37
    Nice. I'd love an LS swap for easy reliable power but never seen one on the street - I'm guessing they're pretty tough to get engineered?
  19. V28VX37
    I've been investigating the MX5 option a bit more just out of curiosity, window shopping is fun. There's heaps for sale on CarSales and mx5cartalk, and a few more track focused ones on my105 and TrackSales. If I had the space for a trailer a well sorted racer (even non-turbo) would be sensible but since I don't it really would need to be registered. This would leave a couple of options: Club rego: Find an existing early NA project with mostly NB S1/S2 parts and other required track upgrades; ideally a turbo conversion too There are a few around but many interstate, and getting them regoed in Vic is probably an engineering job = $$$ Full rego: Find an NB (turbo) or NC that is registered but with a track focused setup. Newer car = theoretically less hassles but more rego cost So essentially it's the good old 'streetable race car' dilemma, with a bit of 'is old but highly modified better than newer but more stock' thrown in. Besides the purchase price a primary factor would be ongoing cost. I'd really prefer something that is reliable and cheap to track (haha oxymoron) over something that is fast but in bits half the time (already have one of those). If there was a measure it would be lowest $ per lap say over a year. Essentially, how to get the cheapest seat time? Darn you Greg for making me think about this
  20. V28VX37
    Ah sorry mate missed the NZ part. If you're happy to wait go with Japex, or grab a printout and go bargain with the local store
  21. V28VX37
    This eBay link shows me AU $498.64 + AU $49.14 shipping = $547.78 all up. Just Jap do the same product at $549: http://justjap.com/splitfire-direct-ignition-coil-packs-sf-dis-008.html I've had good experiences with both companies (Japex for some of the rarer parts) but I'm not sure why you'd order from Japan if the price is virtually identical? Perhaps you were comparing USD prices to AUD? Anyway on coil packs more generally, I had OEMs with slight misfire on idle, Yellow Jackets with slight misfire on idle, and now Splitfires with slight misfire on idle. Everything's been checked a million times and the car runs and boosts totally fine, however I don't believe a 100% misfire-free RB25DET exists if my engine is anything to go by.
  22. V28VX37
    Strangely the PS seems to have righted itself, it currently doesn't judder even when turning the wheel stationery. Bit of a worry, intermittent niggles are the toughest to diagnose..
  23. V28VX37
    I've found that in suburban driving I either clutch in around a tight corner or need to give it a bit of gas to lock. Mine's at its noisiest when it's not fully engaged around a corner. I never had issues putting power down or single pegging with the stock viscous diff so this is definitely a step down around town. Live and learn.
  24. V28VX37
    Getting it looked at next week. Is there any chance running the PS circuit 'too cool' could cause damage? As mentioned I've replaced the original cooling loop with the much larger auto trans cooler, and I'm wondering if it needs to be covered up over winter...?
  25. V28VX37
    That's awesome, great job mate!! Great choice of colour
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