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V28VX37

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Everything posted by V28VX37

  1. V28VX37
    That could work, do you know the spring rates? If they are not too far away from your current ones it should be fine for improved looks, not sure about handling.
  2. V28VX37
    Totally, there's always the next thing What camber are you running in the rear? Would a harder compound help even out the temps (expensive I know...)? And last but not least *gasp* lift the rear a bit?
  3. V28VX37
    FWIW most of the 'real' race cars I've seen photos of appear to run fully floating discs, plus pretty much all the modern European exotics and other supercars. From what I've read they're meant to be better for your hubs due to reduced heat, for one thing. Depends on how serious a race car it is I suppose, and what the price difference is all other things being equal? I mate of mine runs a front pair in his relatively stock Evo 10, reckons it is an improvement.
  4. V28VX37
    I wouldn't bother unless you swap for shorter shocks too, lowered Kings wore out my R34 stock shocks in not time to a leaky heap. The standard shocks are not designed to operate in a slammed range, not to mention your valving will be completely mismatched with your springs. Handles like crap. Then again Kings + shorter shocks is pretty close to basic coilover territory in terms of price. Keep saving or look for low km BC's from all the peeps upgrading to MCA's in droves.
  5. V28VX37
    ^^^ Awesome times mate and good to hear that the car is running solid after the turbo rebuild! Nothing beats seat time. I was soooo close to booking in for Rexmas this Sunday but now my power steering started playing up again. Must be #sedanlife (I think Greg invented it...)
  6. V28VX37
    The PS cooler (ex auto trans cooler) is mounted in the RH guard with the hoses up to avoid air pockets: It doesn't seem to lose fluid, and I left the reservoir open when turning the wheel from lock to lock, I didn't need to top it up at all. I'll have a chat with the shop who got it rebuilt tomorrow. There's a sticker on the rack saying warranty until Jan '17 so I might get lucky (that'd be a first).
  7. V28VX37
    RS3 in that size will give you very good bang for your buck
  8. V28VX37
    Has anyone else used Transteering TE-926-14 (101mm, made in Taiwan) tie rod ends? If so, any issues? I just want to rule these out before investigating the other steering components further. These were sold as Protex and I'm pretty sure they're very similar if not same as the Roadsafe ones, too: Also from my other thread: ^^^ Is it possible that are worn steering knuckle bearing (not sure if that's the right part name) could cause the judder I'm experiencing?
  9. V28VX37
    Just bled it, which made it worse for some reason, roughly back to how it was just before. Really quite shuddery when turning left when stationary or slow speeds. I couldn't hear bubbles but there were some visible in the reservoir, plus the inner sides were dripping so there must have been some bigger bubbles too. Not too sure what's next, I think I'll need to check warranty on the rack rebuild...
  10. V28VX37
    Good point, not as yet, I will give that a go. Something I have noticed previously is that I sometimes hear 'bubbling' in the system when turning steering to full lock with the wheels off the ground. I'm now guessing this might indicate that there's air trapped in there somewhere?
  11. V28VX37
    Just tried the following: - Loosen and re-tighten both steering rack bolts - Loosen and re-tighten RH tie rod end nut, pushing the rod forward slightly to allow for a better angle for the ball joint - Re-greased both tie rod ends - Check fluid level, all good - Check tyre pressures, all good There's still a faint shudder/pulsation through the steering wheel when stationary and turning the wheel left but it's noticeably better. Very curious, I wonder if it's more to do with the recently installed tie rod ends than the rack/PS system?
  12. V28VX37
    Hmm I'm pretty sure it's PS related. I feel the judder through the steering wheel even when stationary (car running), turning the wheel left.
  13. V28VX37
    Steering judder when turning left (R34) Had a bit of a search but didn't come up with much. I've recently noticed an issue with my steering where it 'judders' slightly when turning left. It seems worse at slow speeds i.e. full power steering assistance. Turning right is ok. Couple of things to note: The steering rack has been rebuilt earlier this year. I had really bad judder (both ways) when it went. I've checked PS fluid level and it seems ok. I'm using the original auto trans cooler as a PS cooler so the circuit is longer and has more fluid compared to the standard OEM cooling loop setup. I've just changed the tie rod ends and both ball joints have been lubricated appropriately. I always lift the front of the car up using a 30cm plank to distribute the weight across the crossmember behind the sump. The crossmember has gotten a little dented over time, and when I was doing this recently I heard a noise and noticed that it's slightly more bent than before, which is not great. See pic below. I always thought it was safe to lift at the x-member? Anyway my working theory is the rack may have moved slightly in relation to the crossmember, causing the RH piston to bind slightly and resulting in judder. Is this plausible? If so, how do I fix it? Could I just loosen the rack and re-tighten it? I hope I haven't busted the crossmember enough to need a replacement, as that'd be a major job... ^^^ The crossmember looks a bit better in this photo than in reality
  14. V28VX37
    Brilliant work! Thanks for sharing
  15. V28VX37
    Why not a stylish and unobtrusive #carbra ? Jokes One thing to watch out for with masking tape is that it may not be ideal for parts with DIY paint jobs. I used to put masking tape over my self-painted boot lip spoiler, until one time I pulled off a bit of paint taking it off. Shouldn't be an issue with professionally painted and baked/cured parts though.
  16. V28VX37
    Thanks. Both rotors are currently about 29.1mm at the thinnest point, measured at three spots through the wheel using a basic digital caliper. There's a bit more variance between the thinnest and the thickest spot on the LH side. Given that these rotors are 30mm thick new and have minimum thickness of 28mm according to the DBA catalogue, looks like they are at about halfway through their useful life so might try one more skim. Also I've just replaced outer tie rod ends and also checked for wheel bearing play (all good) so I'm pretty sure any braking vibration is likely to be rotors...
  17. V28VX37
    Any suggestions on these?
  18. V28VX37
    I've been having some vibration under braking so I went and measured the runout at the very edge of the rotor (just at the outermost end of the slots): Left: outside face 0.10mm / inside face 0.08mm Right: outside face 0.04mm / inside face 0.04mm That's a lot of runout on the LH rotor, and quite a big difference between LH/RH. Since this is measured at the very edge I don't think it's due to uneven pad material deposits. Can I get away by machining the rotors once more (they've been skimmed once) or is it new rotor time? There's no cracking or any visible heat stress on the rotor surface. Also, what's the recommended runout on Skylines? DBA suggests the following as a general guideline: Type of vehicle Typical Run-out value Small family car 100 microns (0.10 mm) Medium family car 80 microns (0.08 mm) Luxury car 50 microns (0.05 mm)
  19. V28VX37
    Bump
  20. V28VX37
    Some photos for general reference from my other thread: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460412-how-to-replace-r34-gtt-door-lock-actuator-door-not-locking/
  21. V28VX37
    I replaced the actuator (DIY: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465953-replacing-door-lock-actuator-in-r34-gtt/ ) and it worked well ... for a while. It's started to play up again, same symptoms as before, always unlocks but sometimes doesn't lock. I'm wondering if it's something else that might be jamming it? I'm thinking of attacking the mechanism with WD40, any ideas where to focus on?
  22. V28VX37
    Very mature approach Steve, I like it. Here's a shortlist of basic stuff that has made some difference for me over the past decade: Driving stick in a right hand drive car. I got my license on the other side... Learning to brake without clutching in. Weird thing I know but at driving school they taught us to clutch in when emergency braking to avoid stalling, it stuck with me and has been surprisingly hard to unlearn Looking up Looking where you're going, instead of the obstacle Proper seating position close enough to the wheel Adjusting mirrors for maximum vision – and using them! Keeping enough distance from the car in front. Super basic but Melbournians are shocking with this Heel-and-toe downshifting Aiming for consistency not outright pace on the track I think the vision and the seating position were the main things I heard about repeatedly in the driver training, but obviously you need to practice on your own time. Think of it as homework that you actually want to do I'm currently dabbling with left-foot braking, quite hard to modulate and it's a bit of mental gymnastics to remember what you're using the left foot for when. Might be useful for a sequence of similar-speed same gear corners on the track.
  23. V28VX37
    FWIW my R34 GT-T Nismo mounts didn't seem to make any difference to where the engine is sitting. I would have thought there might be a couple of mm difference in just the OEM mounts being squished & worn out over 15+ years...?
  24. V28VX37
    How are you finding the RDA's on the track Bill, any issues with the heat? Have you run DBA's before, for comparison? I'm getting an annoying squeal (yes have added copper grease) and some shudder on the front right and trying to diagnose the cause, someone suggested the classic 'warped rotor' but will need to investigate further. My current DBA T3's have been skimmed once, there's maybe one more skim left in them, but in case I need to replacement I'm wondering if RDA's would do the job for ~60% of the price...?
  25. V28VX37
    Yeah I've tried measuring stacks of coil packs over the years, typically none the wiser. Hunting random misfires is part of the game owning an RB, I never had any issues with my previous LS1 even though it pushed more power naturally aspirated than my RB does with forced induction...
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