V28VX37

Here's my misfire diagnosis thread for some inspiration: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326043-resolved-misfire-in-r34-gtt-rb25det-neo/ Also in the early days I had a significant breakdown beyond 4000rpm, which turned out to be a broken CAS

Look for the TCS button next to the steering column - that'll give you contraction control lol

^^^ What they said, just do a guided track day or few and get an instructor in the car for a couple of laps. I've done Murcott's and another defensive driving instruction day - they're 'ok' for the basics but a lot of it is sitting through lectures with a bunch of L and P platers. I mean theory is good but there's so much online it's not funny - start here http://www.drivingfast.net/ then https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464443-circuit-racing-learning-online-resources/ To learn about understeer and oversteer you gotta understeer and oversteer. Do a track day.

Could try spark plugs first, also replacing the harness can help. But yes probably time for new coil packs.

Yep check your fault codes: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266512-reading-nissan-fault-codes-ecu-fault-codes-how-read-them/ My car throws TCS + SLIP ever since the manual conversion, no more traction control but oh well. I also get engine light on after disconnecting the CAS, have you done that recently? Resetting the ECU using Nissan DataScan (or a paperclip) clears this error. You could try unplugging and reconnecting the TPS too just to see if that makes any difference.

Did exactly the opposite, ordered cheapie off ebay, butchered original sensor wire to get the connector, only to find out that the probe itself won't fit through the Defi bung in the first place lol I was googling industrial pyrometers and a few companies came up, if you've used one in Melb before which one was it?

For rear HICAS yeah? A full HICAS delete kit will replace the whole lot if that helps, this is what I'm running: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Total-Hicas-Eliminator-Kit-For-Nissan-S13-S14-S15-R32-R33-R34-Z32-Skyline-200sx-/182172578985

Saw a white one in flesh recently, looks amazing. Very drool-worthy

Tony those mods look great! I wouldn't mind upgrading my two-part front camber arms to single-part items at some stage. Yep I just saw the 80% rule too, sucks bad. Looks like there's a Maserati Club Come and Try on Dec 10, not a great date and not sure if you can run full pace there either: http://www.maserati.org.au/event-2372776

^^^ what he said, kms per tank is useless. I'm getting around 16l/100km and 11 on the freeway at 275 rwkw. Check your O2 sensor they're known to cause high fuel consumption if buggered. Kudos sell new ones.

This comprehensive R34 sedan to GT-R conversion will give you an idea of the effort required, it's pretty insane: http://www.carscoops.com/2016/09/nissan-skyline-r34-gt-r-gets-4-door.html The pillar is just one problem. AFAIK: Front window rake and glass is different Rear window rake and glass is different Floor pan is different Door cards are different (obviously) Rear interior, seats and parcel shelf are different The boot, in fact the whole rear end (including tail lights) is different (see photos on above page) Exhaust system is different etc. etc. It's totally not worth it. However, what IS worth it is a sedan with GT-R running gear. A much cheaper proposition too - do it!

Great thread, thanks for posting Dan! I've been entertaining the idea of offloading the 34 though it's way too far gone in terms of time and cost over the past five years. It's the only car and keeping the balance between family friendly (=safe) and track friendly (=quick/reliable) is tough - I've just about tipped it over the edge with the 1.5-way. Sounds like DJBarnstar is familiar with that story Anyway if you replaced it with a 2-car combo you could optimistically do a ~10k family diesel wagon (how exciting) and a ~10k track toy, but you don't get much for that money. MX5's are very appealing but a sorted turbo example wouldn't fit the budget. Though heaps lighter it'd be hard to go NA for the lack of power (at least on paper) but that said ditching the turbo would also mean reliability & heaps less ongoing cost. Speaking of, sounds like I'm currently spending close to Radical money per track day and not very happy with that frankly, especially since I don't seem to reach a level of reliability where I could actually improve my driving and times. One very expensive game.

Yeah pretty keen on that. I need to do a proper test drive/mountain run before signing up though to build up confidence in the car

Darn would love to but it's better half's birthday weekend, not negotiable... What's the other event?

Did some general maintenance over the weekend: Replaced & greased steering outer tie rod ends. The front right was completely shot and could perhaps have caused the vibration under heavy braking? To be tested. The steering feel is much improved now, a lot tighter. Measured and reset front toe, much have got it right since the car doesn't veer to either side Removed OEM GPS unit from dash to make some space for a wideband gauge (So Many Gauges) Run wideband sensor cable from engine bay to cabin Changed air filter Changed oil and filter. I've always used Ryco ones, somehow this time the old one was completely and utterly stuck. I bent a cheapo SCA oil filter wrench, gave up and did the old screwdriver-through-the-side trick (twice) and only just got it off, WTH?! After the oil change it feels like it might have a slight weep at the filter too, need to keep an eye on that.. Couple of questions: Since installing the oil cooler I can only ever seem to get 4L out of the system (even after cranking with CAS disconnected) – is there a way to flush more oil out without undoing the cooler top hose? With the wheels off and steering rack disconnected I noticed more 'resistance' in the LH steering knuckle i.e. you can just leave it in the middle (straight) position and it'll stay, whereas the RH knuckle moves very easily and would only rest at full left or right. My guess is that the RH steering knuckle bearing (?) might be worn, does that sound possible? Can it be replaced? I also realised (doh) that the tie rod ends sit very close to the rotors, which basically glow red at the track and cop a lot of heat especially now that I've ditched the brake backing plates. The original RH rod end boot seems to have a pinhole in it and has lost some grease, leading to high wear and play – I wonder if it's taken a beating at Sandown (counterclockwise)? Anyway, is there a way to 'heat shield' the tie rod ends (only), or do you guys just replace them at regular intervals? Cheers

Holy moly that's some quick delivery from Japan, Jesse rocks! My car is finally back together but I'm sure you'll learn what this diff is like on the street soon enough

Hey mate the MCM R34 shift light install video might help: However why not just buy a second hand cluster and replace it all in one hit?

Thanks mate, I got it all sorted and documented in this other thread: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462362-oil-cooler-too-eager-faulty-thermostat-or-incorrect-temp-sensor-location/

Jack up the rear and try the spin test first (simplified, I hope I get this right) – with gearbox in neutral: Spin left wheel one way and the right wheel rotates the opposite way -> open diff or VLSD Spin left wheel one way and the right wheel rotates the same way -> locked/mechanical LSD Some more info on diff identification: http://www.240sx.org/faq/articles/limited_slip_differential.htm

The Nismo GT Lsd is not adjustable, however the GT Lsd Pro is. Both are available in 1.5 and 2-way. If you have no clunking or skipping around tight bends especially when cold I'd say it's unlikely that you have a mechanical diff

Just pulled out the sensor then, it was pretty stuck with the constant heat expansion/contraction. The probe sticks out a good 25-30mm and I don't think it's ever moved since installation (nor could I move it) so it's not the positioning. Also the gauge doesn't move anymore at all (no error light either) so somehow the sensor just decided to die now. A genuine Defi replacement is like $250 so I reckon I'll try a cheapo eBay replacement next to see how long it lasts.

Cheers Bill. What's your oil level on the dipstick with the 1l overfill?

I use the same oil but this makes me think I should overfill more for the track. Also how do you get the old oil out of the cooler circuit without undoing any fittings? Last time I dropped the oil I only got just over 4 litres out so heaps left I there..

This is what it looks like: http://www.defi-shop.com/installation/sensor/ Mine was all assembled when I bought it, and just screwed into the bung added on top of the dump. Perhaps it's adjustable and has moved, I'll need to have a look.

^^^ That sucks man Wasting a perfectly good track day only adds insult to injury – why can't these thing break at the end of the day instead?! Good to hear that you're getting it sorted so quickly though, and that there's a valid reason on why it may have happened, at least you don't need to chase ghosts...