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V28VX37

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Everything posted by V28VX37

  1. V28VX37
    Sorry mate manic today and over the weekend but Sunday night could work? Unless you must buy tomorrow It's a screw type so shouldn't have moved. Just went to the shops and the gauge barely moves from 2 (minimum reading) so something is amiss. I'm pretty sure the guys at the shop welded the new O2 bung at the bottom of the front pipe with the EGT sensor still screwed in - could using a MIG/welder upset the (disconnected) probe?
  2. V28VX37
    Something random that I observed on the test drive last night is that my Defi exhaust temp gauge seems to read low. It never gets above 400 and is mostly 'fluttering' (slowly bouncing) around 300 for some reason. From memory it was 500-600 in normal driving before and 800+ on the track when pushed. My initial reaction is that the probe must have taken a hit, however can anyone think of another explanation?
  3. V28VX37
    Good question, I've totally blown my budget this year (what budget) but keen to have one more run this year... Mates are heading up to Winton early Dec but I'm not sure if I trust the car quite enough for the hike just yet
  4. V28VX37
    Arp-202-4301 head studs and OEM gasket
  5. V28VX37
    Of course, it ended up being around 3.5 plus another k for the new Mishimoto rad, all new water and heater hoses, diff oil change, second O2 bung and some other random stuff. Lesson learned though, better take any coolant leaks very seriously.
  6. V28VX37
    Finally got the car back. Based on a quick spin everything seems a-ok, no more bubbles in coolant, in fact the overflow is sitting rock steady at the max mark before and after a run now. Water and oil temps around 80 degrees at freeway speeds on a cool night. I need to do some more testing but so far very good yay!
  7. V28VX37
    OH the other week: 'C63 is the new VL' ... he might be onto something
  8. V28VX37
    Well, from my experience, running a Skyline costs an arm and a leg, especially if you track it. And mine's not even a GT-R...
  9. V28VX37
    Thanks, good to know! I've now got a bit of a mix in the diff (~1L Motul, rest Nismo leftovers from the original bottle), hopefully that's ok? Looking through the specs it looks like Nismo is the same ester-based 100% synthetic base oil as the Motul but with some nitrogen additives. Also the Nismo is to be changed every 3,000 kms. Sounds pretty voodoo. http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/of/competition_oil/lineup/75w140.html http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/of/competition_oil/lineup/basic.html vs https://www.motul.com/ro/en/products/oils-lubricants/gear-competition-75w140 https://www.motul.com/system/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/108/original/Gear Competition 75W140_GB.pdf?1290086772
  10. V28VX37
    I ran my BC BR's with 6/5 for a couple of years until going up to the standard 8/6, with no revalving. It's firmer but acceptable for street and better at the track, in my 34 sedan. The swapping springs part is easy but fiddling with the ride height to get it right takes time. Remember to set the correct preload, too.
  11. V28VX37
    Any thoughts? I'm probably missing something obvious
  12. V28VX37
    If you can't find a second hand one Kudos have new OEM senders
  13. V28VX37
    Thread resurrect. I just got some Transteering TE-926-14 (101mm, made in Taiwan) tie rod ends for my R34 GTT steering rack (front). Looks like these come with grease nipples, whereas the OEM's are sealed I'm pretty sure. What's the correct procedure to grease these and what grease should I use? Thanks guys.
  14. V28VX37
    I ran pretty much exactly the same power through my stock 34 auto and then it started slipping. Also with a bigger turbo but standard stall it was basically never on boost and felt laggy as. Ended up converting to manual but built auto like Greg's is a good option too.
  15. V28VX37
    > Still awaiting word from the engine shop on the head, loving the suspense Got a positive verdict, thanks goodness. The head is being refreshed, they're just waiting on valve stem seals, shouldn't be too long. Might have a car again one of these days yay!
  16. V28VX37
    The bores and pistons do look decent, at least based on my limited understanding of combustion engines. Still awaiting word from the engine shop on the head, loving the suspense Here's the block:
  17. V28VX37
    I've just ordered some Motul Gear Competition 75W140 100% synthetic off eBay. It's half the price of Nismo Competition Differential Gear Oil - 2189E 75W140 100% synthetic (made by Motul), which doesn't really make sense to me but oh well. My hope is that it's pretty much the same oil.
  18. V28VX37
    Put it on eBay with no reserve, someone will pick it up. I sold my 34 auto for $200 last year, had to wait ages for a buyer though.
  19. V28VX37
    Also the current recommendation is OEM head gasket and ARP 2000 head studs. Apparently the price difference between basic ARP's and 2000's is not massive.
  20. V28VX37
    Tempting as it may be at 50k a year I'd suggest a car is not the best investment you could make. Pretty much any car can run you 10k a year in finance/insurance/upkeep/fuel plus mods on top - and a GTR is not 'any car'. Not a cheap game and you'll basically never see any of that money again. Not a a dig but when are you planning on moving out on your own? That's not cheap either..
  21. V28VX37
    Long shot but have you checked your O2 sensor? Faulty O2 can mess up you AFR
  22. V28VX37
    I just checked and my Nismo 1.5-way came new with 'Nismo Competition Oil Differential 2189E 75W140 by Motul 100% synthetic'. I'm not sure whether this is intended just for running it in, or full time use, guessing the latter. So from a viscosity point of view your oil seems fine Greg. An interesting point about the backlash, my workshop guys said that they got lucky with the centre and the shimming/adjustment was spot on first go. Apparently these can be a bit sensitive. 84 laps is totally crazy, wish my car could do that!
  23. V28VX37
    Head is off finally and good news is that pistons and bores look ok plus block is straight. Head is at the engine shop now, should know more on Monday.
  24. V28VX37
    Greg I'll have a look at mine when I get the car back from the shop, same diff (haha). Where does the breather sit? Silly question but what tool do you need to get the top filler plug open without pulling the diff out? I tried at some point and it's so close to subframe a normal socket wrench wouldn't go in there, and extender didn't work either. Also off topic but if anyone knows where to get a 1/2" drive to metric Nissan filler plug adapter I'd love to have one, my gearbox plugs are mangled now from spannering them directly with a 1/2" drive...
  25. V28VX37
    Haha thanks Tony, I think I'll just need to man up and get used to it. At least mine's not an auto like Greg's so I can clutch in around hairpins Unless yours is a track only car definitely do a test drive first to see for yourself, happy to take you for a spin.
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