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V28VX37

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Everything posted by V28VX37

  1. V28VX37
    Thanks guys. Second quote is in the 2.5-3k range. The headwork including reco is sub 1k, plus parts. A lot of the cost is still labour so would be substantially cheaper if I pulled it out myself but I do want it done right. Here's the current plan: Pressure test oil/water exchanger to rule that out. Leakdown test to confirm it's the HG. Pull out head, inspect & measure. Skim and reco only if necessary. Inspect & measure bottom end. If major issues skip head work and replace engine. Install head with new HG (I'll see what type they recommend) and new studs. Earliest I can book it in is in about a week. Maybe a cheap my-loss-your-gain well built 25/30 stroker pops up in the classifieds in the meantime lol (as if)
  2. V28VX37
    Looks good except for the part on having to grind the calipers, especially so close to the mount. Did the original non-WTAC kit require that or was it a completely different design?
  3. V28VX37
    Nope just the head with all parts and labour, drive in drive out.
  4. V28VX37
    Thanks Bill That was just a ballpark quite from one workshop, I am still waiting on two more. I will most likely take it to my normal place for a more detailed assessment, want to be 100% certain it's the gasket before ripping off the head. Going to a smaller workshop might be an idea, would need to find a reputable one though and one that is not ridiculously busy. I'm in the inner North near Essendon so north and west tend to work better than south-east. I am happy to do some of the work myself but will need a full diagnosis first by someone who actually knows what they're doing. I was looking up DIY engine swap instructions last night, now that'd be a fun project for a month
  5. V28VX37
    Is that with labour to pull head off and put it back on, including all parts & new head gasket and studs? I got a similar price from another shop for a full reco but that's just the reco only, excluding the above.
  6. V28VX37
    One ballpark quote came back at 5.5k so 'on the cheap' might not happen... that's with a full reco. Probably cheaper to replace the whole engine but not keen on having to go to VicRoads to update numbers.
  7. V28VX37
    Thanks! Is the SS2 upgradeable or is the new version completely different?
  8. V28VX37
    Unlikely I'm guessing but would a late 2013 SS2 IWG be upgradeable to the latest model? Stao do you still recommend external gate for the SS2's?
  9. V28VX37
    Thanks guys. I'm waiting for a quote from my workshop's engine builder, have also enquired from a couple of other places to see what people recommend. Option A: Do to minimum to get it running properly then sell / Option B: Do it thoroughly and keep & hope nothing else breaks soon (unlikely). Kinda over spending 20x more time building than driving the thing at the moment... Edit: Scanning eBay, there's a 'Nissan Skyline RB25DET Neo Engine R34 - Long Motor fresh top end rebuild' listed for $1,750 ... tempting.
  10. V28VX37
    Thanks - I assume that would show up when the head is measured? Also if the head has gone banana would the same be true for the block? Can that be measured with the block in the car? Bit of a headache (see what I did there)
  11. V28VX37
    Thanks guys I will talk to the workshop and start with the leakdown. In terms of rad this has been recommended but it's not exactly cheap: http://www.prospeedracing.com.au/products/mishimoto-nissan-skyline-r34-performance-aluminum-radiator.html
  12. V28VX37
    Totally - at a minimum they'll need to measure head and then skim if necessary. I can just see this spiralling out quickly to the point that it's cheaper to just chuck in another Neo, however anything second hand is a gamble...
  13. V28VX37
    Nope, just a comp test and the tee kay. Should I get a leakdown done, what's the benefit? Also I just checked yesterday on cold start that the car is not blowing any smoke just at least that's good..
  14. V28VX37
    The GT3 brake air guides look slightly more upmarket: via http://www.speedhunters.com/2016/10/subtle-aggression-991-gt3-cup-conversion/#_presentation-296496
  15. V28VX37
    Thanks man, at least that's a given then. I'll get onto the replacement.
  16. V28VX37
    Looks great! Have you got a photo with the wheel off? The front seems to have a lot more rotor area than the stock R34 GTT 310mm discs, more than the 10mm diameter difference would suggest.
  17. V28VX37
    Only when hot though, they're completely fine when cool under normal braking. These rotors have been through a quite bit though so it is possible.
  18. V28VX37
    Here's what the overflow looks like after a drive, it does smell like exhaust and there's dark gray matter near the bubbles. It pushed about an inch from the radiator into the overflow during the drive.
  19. V28VX37
    Hmm it's been changed early this year as the original one was leaking. However, I think the 'new' one is second hand too so you never know. Because of the pressure differential (oil 2-6bar vs. coolant ~1bar) I'm guessing it'd mix oil into the water rather than the other way around? I'm not seeing any loss of oil at the moment.
  20. V28VX37
    Yeah there's a good chance haha I'm currently thinking: Replace radiator and hoses & see how it goes If still no good remove & skim head (no reco), re-install with OEM gasket and ARP studs The thing that concerns me is the bad smell & sediment in the coolant, that doesn't feel like a radiator-only issue. Unless there's a blockage somewhere and the pressure is pushing the crud collected over the 150k around?
  21. V28VX37
    Yeah will do – silly question but I assume there's no way to check without pulling it off? Yes brand new Tridon cap put in on Friday. It's got the original radiator still, it passes the pressure test fine. What's a good replacement worth? When you say 'top tank', are there multiple parts to the rad?
  22. V28VX37
    One more: I'm also getting vibration through the steering wheel under braking once the brakes get properly hot. I remember this happening last time too at Sandown. You can keep driving through it but it doesn't instil full confidence. Also this seems to go away when everything cools down again - any thoughts? I'm wondering if new rotors would help, although these one were machined earlier this year. The calipers have been rebuilt recently and I had new pads, new fluid, new brake air guides on this track day.
  23. V28VX37
    Another track day another set of questions... I just took the semis off the car and found a ~3x4mm piece of glass embedded in one, a big bloody chunk. Pulled it out with a screwdriver; the tyre holds air fine but is it safe (at 200 km/h)? The soft compound is a magnet for debris, there was another smaller shard in another tyre and some tiny cuts in a third, perhaps I shouldn't drive them to the track and back... Also: Blown head gasket -> http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467066-blown-neo-head-gasket-next-steps/ Brake air guides -> http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448613-r34-gtt-brake-improvement-without-breaking-the-bank/?do=findComment&comment=7780229
  24. V28VX37
    Thanks mate. Not blowing smoke or burning oil, although there was some oil residue on the #2 plug when the guys checked it earlier this week. The system has been bled multiple times and seems to behave itself on idle, it's just under load when it starts pushing coolant. Is there any chance a blocked radiator or hose somewhere could cause symptoms like these? I'd hate to get the head gasket done and not have the issue fixed...
  25. V28VX37
    Blown Neo head gasket - Next steps? Ok so I am 95% certain I have blown the head gasket in my Neo. Symptoms: The engine is pushing coolant into the overflow bottle when pushed even moderately. I tried it out at Sandown today with an eye on the temps at all times and returned back to the pits whenever it hit over 90C -> overflow is at max or beyond. I added a second overflow bottle for the day too. Coolant in the overflow bottle not clean/clear, it's bubbly/foamy after a run, and also there's occasionally 'floaties' (black sediment) on the surface. Doesn't smell the best either; not quite like combustion gases but not like clean coolant either. I also noticed that the exhaust is popping on more than usual on gear changes, running rich perhaps? Also it doesn't feel like it's hitting/holding boost quite as well as normal (not that I pushed it a 100% but still). Unsure if this is related. What's weird is that I had a tee kay test done earlier this week and it came back all clear. Comp test was 155,155,155,140,146,150 so not top of class but within the 10% tolerance. The back story is that I had a small coolant leak at Sandown last time two months ago -> lost coolant and pressure -> temps shot up to 125. What I'm not 100% sure about is whether that's the root cause. The engine is currently at 153,000 kms and it's been running ~20psi for the past 20,000 kms, with about half a dozen track days on it. Now, to the questions. I know that I'm up for a head gasket and head studs at a minimum, plus probably a head skim. Some would recommend a head reco too. With the studs, I'm guessing ARP over OEM? With the gasket, OEM should do with stock bottom end at up to low-300 kw's, no? From what I understand it's a bit more forgiving to an uneven surface than a metal one. Where in Melbourne should I go for some quotes, who knows this stuff well? What should I expect to pay? Also, some other options: An alternative to all that work is just buying another Neo, which can probably be had for say 2k? Lots of labour to change it over though, plus the condition would be anyone's guess. Or just go crazy and buy someone else's 24/30... What else might I look at doing when the head is off? Built bottom end would be nice but gets pricey very quickly. Also poncams would be cool but I'm not sure how much they add without any other mods. Anyway all I really want is a track ready ~300rwkw @ 98 car that is reliable... Thanks guys! Also big hat tip to Bill and Greg for troubleshooting this with me at Sandown today!
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