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V28VX37

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Everything posted by V28VX37

  1. V28VX37
    Both front and rear air guides went well at Sandown today, with no ill effects. No brake fade but I didn't get any good runs in either as I had to nurse the car, pretty sure the head gasket is gone Here's the rear left mounted:
  2. V28VX37
    SR's are heaps less dusty than the Remsas, they were ridiculous! In normal street driving the SRs are completely fine and I have white wheels..
  3. V28VX37
    I've been running DBA T3 Club Specs for a while, happy with them. You can probably get by without the slots and save some coin, but have a compare of the internal cooling structure of your options, I'd say it's more important than the surface. I too have just put in fresh Intima SR's, they bite nicely on the street. Only issue is pretty good squeal at a particular brake pressure, hopefully beating them a bit at Sandown will fix it soon
  4. V28VX37
    Not to hijack the thread but I bought a Ram Mount based on the recommendation on the Harry's LapTimer site. It has a very sturdy adjustable arm and I use the X-grip end in normal daily use with an iPhone (with a case on). For track I have the moulded iPhone mount that holds the phone very well. I've been happy with the setup and have yet to have the arm fall off once, unlike the cheapie one that I had before. The only issues are the need to have different ends for a phone with/without case, and the fact that you need two hands two put phone in or pull it out of either holder.
  5. V28VX37
    Interesting ... did you get the tee kay test or similar done on it before pulling the head?
  6. V28VX37
    Thanks for the tip! I just picked up one from Supercheap. They list two part numbers for the 300ZX: CB1390(L) for older models and CB16110(L) for newer. The R34 is listed too (2.0L-2.6L so both ER34 and BNR34) and it's the CB1390(L) one so that's what I bought. I got the non-L aka non-lever = standard non-fancy model. I had a look at the specs and 1390 stands for 13 PSI/90 kPa whereas 16110 is 16 PSI/110 kPa. Physically the two look exactly the same so make sure you check the part number suits your car.
  7. V28VX37
    Thanks Greg. Was your water temp still in check when bubbling, or did it shoot up? Edit: Also I'm running 98 not E85 so in theory it should show on the tee kay..
  8. V28VX37
    Brilliant thanks man! Here's to hoping that I won't need to take you up on the offer but very much appreciated
  9. V28VX37
    Thanks Johnny - the tee kay test came back negative so no combustion gases in coolant, head and gasket are fine. I'll keep an eye out for the floaties though! I'll have a look at the rad cap too.
  10. V28VX37
    Nope didn't, the guys at my workshop reckon it should be ok... I'll do that if this happens again.
  11. V28VX37
    Tee kay done, all clear. Comp test all good. Plugs all good except some minor oil residue on #2. Cooling system thoroughly inspected and bled, again. *scratches head* Fingers crossed it runs properly on Saturday!
  12. V28VX37
    Pretty s__t when cold to be honest. Ok when warmed up except in really tight turns i.e. shopping cente car parks. Whatever drivability I previously had left for my better half is now pretty much gone In terms of performance there's no benefit on the street really, maybe on a mountain run. Yet to run it on the track, we'll see. For a mostly-street car VLSD or helical is the better option.
  13. V28VX37
    Tk test? Will look into the rad cap too, thanks Bill.
  14. V28VX37
    Found a boost leak over the weekend, pulled most of the intake pipes and joiners out and cleaned them last night. Good news is, went for a test drive and the boost leak seems resolved yay. Also brake wear and pedal feel is better now after chucking in some new pads. Bad news is, there was some coolant coming out of the overflow and it was bubbling in the overflow tank after stopping I'm pretty sure this means a busted head gasket or warped head since the recent overheating incident at the track. Are there any other checks I should do/get done to confirm or probe further? It's really odd too as the water temp only hit just over 80 degrees so it wasn't showing anything unusual on the gauges (plus it's cold, only about 10 degrees outside).
  15. V28VX37
    Rear ones coming along, the 'channel' part sits along the lower control arm: An even more complex shape than the fronts, pretty fiddly.
  16. V28VX37
    The prototypes: Final product:
  17. V28VX37
    Cool car! So how does it compare?
  18. V28VX37
    Given that many cars (for instance pretty much all current HSV barges) have slotted rotors from factory I doubt it's just cosmetic... From the DBA FAQ: http://www.dba.com.au/faqs/ Also the DBAs have a different internal structure ('kangaroo paw') that is meant to provide improved cooling over the standard vanes. I'm sure a part this is just marketing though so take it with a grain of salt. I totally agree with Bill above that slots are not going to magically lower your temps - ultimately the rotor is just a big heat sink and the main determinant is the amount of metal (go have a look at the rotor size on Cayennes and Touaregs etc). Obviously beyond that other things like lines/pads/fluid/cooling matter as well.
  19. V28VX37
    Could work but probably over-engineered It's just a flat sheet cut up to right dimensions and bent. I might look at doing a template if these work at Sandown next week
  20. V28VX37
    Here's how the front right looks from the inside, you can see the three mounting points:
  21. V28VX37
    Lol Yes three mounting points: 8mm bolt at the hot end, widened 25mm conduit bracket in the middle, wide cable tie in front. I'll try to get a photo from the back later.
  22. V28VX37
    Good call on the splitter material. This splitter install on an 86 is pretty cool with the turnbuckles, I'm keen to try something similar at some point: https://youtu.be/LvEbqTv-my4?t=2m25s Also the one on this RX7 build looks pretty trick, made out of alupanel: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447297-my-rx7-s8-track-car-build/?do=findComment&comment=7772399 Yeah the high temp brake ducting is very pricey... Also you're right the 4" seems huge, I had a good look around last weekend with the front bar off and I would probably struggle even with 2" duct on the driver's side as I have the PS cooler core taking up a lot of space there.
  23. V28VX37
    Just found this thread now, awesome build mate!! Couple of questions out of curiosity: Have you driven the car in anger yet with the MDF splitter, does it take bumps/kerb/abuse ok? Are you using the same material for the undertray? I wonder how it would go with the heat from the engine bay? What did you use for brake ducting? Looks like a pretty large diameter duct in the photos. Also did you find/fab a flange to connect it up to? I've been chasing some that would direct the airflow to the centre of the disc but they're pretty tough to find...
  24. V28VX37
    Thanks man! A lot of the ones you see around tend to cool the disc face, I like the UAS style as it feeds inside the disc to allow the vanes to vent more effectively. Also quick tip for anyone wanting to give this a go: the jigsaw with a metal cutting blade was a revelation after initial struggles with tin snips...
  25. V28VX37
    Thanks again for the photo and link mate! Here's how the DIY ones turned out, no issues at full lock as yet: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448613-r34-gtt-brake-improvement-without-breaking-the-bank/?do=findComment&comment=7777134
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