V28VX37

I just finished fabricating some front brake air guides over the weekend, made out of 0.9mm galvanised steel. The design is largely inspired by the UAS ones (thanks dan.1337 for the photo and link!) but also looking at the OEM GT-R V-Spec ones. The most time consuming part was testing a number of prototypes at varying levels of lock and suspension compression to ensure that everything clears at all times. What do you guys reckon, should I make some for the rears too? I cooked my 650C pads in all corners last track day (granted not enough cool down laps). I have since had the rear heat shields removed too, which hopefully cools rotors more evenly but will probably heat up drive shafts/boots/suspension components more now... Also the R33 front brake ducts won't clear at my ride height so I'm thinking of adding just some rubber 'fins' on the undertray to channel more air towards the air guides. Might be an overkill. ... Here's some photos of the front brake air guides (car jacked up, suspension fully expanded), yet to be painted: Front left with steering straight Front left with full lock in Front left with full lock out ... Rear right with no heat shield The prospective air guide would follow the curve of the lower control arm edge I imagine and feed into the small gap between inner edge of the rotor and the handbrake assembly?

Thanks mate! I didn't find that on the UAS site previously either so thanks for the link too. I've just mocked up a copy using some thin sheet, the same overall shape but with some minor tweaks for my application

^^^ Ok so I've got this issue in reverse now – front rotors wearing ok all the way except the outer edge (also outside of the disc only). Interestingly it's a similar story in the back too, perhaps even a bit more pronounced. I just pulled the front pads and compared it to the set I chewed at Calder Park earlier this year with the stuck pistons. The Sandown set it crumbling at the edges and you can see some 'bubbles'/runs of the material on the sides – compared to these the Calder Park set looks pristine (except for the wear). Anyway it's new pad time again, I'll give the Intima SR a go this time. Note to self: Must Do Cooldown Laps in a Heavy Car.

Great progress! Any photos of the ducting, how did you mount the rotor ends? Very keen to do something similar on my R34.

Finally got around to fabricating the heat shield, quite fiddly because of the tight space but came out ok. I used 1.6mm galvanised steel from Bunnings, which is sturdy but not that much fun to work with using home tools. The front left brake line should be better shielded now, as well as the ABS unit. The actuator arm is pretty close but since it's pushing out (towards the rear of the car) it should be ok. Hopefully the engine doesn't jump around too much when running, I guess I'll find out soon enough!

I rang Race Brakes, they don't have the rebuild kit but suggested testing the master cylinder first. I've just done the following: Car off Pump brake several times, stiff pedal Put tape measure next to the pedal Apply consistent brake pressure Measure pedal drop I did this for 30 sec (max attention span) and there was zero pedal drop, so it seems like the master seals ok? EDIT: I also just watched some vids on vacuum assisted brake boosters. I've always had this thing where in traffic lights, applying the same pressure, the pedal drop slightly after a while. Understanding now a bit more how a brake booster works, this could be the engine idle revs increasing ever so slightly > more vacuum > more brake boost > increased drop for same pedal pressure. Does this make sense?

Looking good! I was just checking out the HFM adaptors the other day - let us know how they go on the track, might be a decent budget upgrade for me as well. EDIT: What's the manufacture quality of the adaptors like, do they feel solid enough?

Fair enough. I know that a motorcycle helmet is the easiest option but where do people go for entry level Hans enabled ones in Melbourne?

Thanks! So no date requirement on the helmet?

Are these the ones in the last pic? How do they mount, just out of curiosity?

So true. I've got limited skill, a heavy car with a fair bit of power, and somehow manage to break something most outings. I'd go and learn a light car with less power in a heartbeat if I had my time again. Brilliant work, looks great! What's the theory behind the two risers above, for increased downforce or some form of cooling?

Thanks guys! Good to know, I'll give HFM a miss then and keep looking.

Love this strategy, engine mods last. Most people want all the powa first and end up driving a pretty dangerous car. Diffuser looks great, what material did you use?

Has anyone heard of HFM or used their parts? Their BM57 alternative is a decent price, pic below: https://hfm.parts/shop/brakes/nissan-bm57-brake-master-cylinder-abs/ Looks like it's a Chinese re-manufacture of the original Nissan BM57: https://www.facebook.com/gktech/photos/a.479905785391677.98225.133362883379304/729676497081270/

Still looking for potential upgrade options that would fit under the stock 17" GTT wheels. The Just Jap Attkd range has the following front kit options that might suit: 4 piston 330x32mm 6 piston 330x32mm BIG 6 piston 330x32mm I can't find much specs in terms of calipers and piston sizing or pads, I wonder how hard it is to find consumables for these? I believe these are basically the same as the K-Sport / D2 / G4 brand ones.

Great stuff, thanks for sharing! Is there like a European Recruitment Drive for SAU on or something, lots of awesome overseas builds being posted at the moment?!

Just to close the loop, the Nismo Mechanical LSD GT 1.5way for R34 GTT (38420-RS015-BA) comes with plug and play stub axles for the R200 housing (with VLSD) found in the early ER34's. Mine's a 1998 model, originally auto but later converted to manual. In terms of running in, the story sage continues here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466340-nismo-gt-vs-gt-pro-run-in-time/ . Many fun times have been had.

Scratch that. That was the tail shaft balance weight just touching the mid muffler on decel only WTH. I got new Nismo engine mounts put in together with the diff, must have reduced the miniscule clearance it had just a tiny little bit. Random. Moral: 1. Go for a good drive near walls (congested freeway is great) with all windows down and carefully listen to the car's rear end before swapping your diff. 2. Fix all the s__t before installing the new centre. 3. Profit Remain sane.

Slightly OT but my aftermarket Bride rail (bottom mount) is actually higher than the R34 OEM rail. You can easily see why too, the Bride front legs have a down bit before the mount, whereas the OEMs don't. There's a good 20-25mm difference and the front of my Sparco sits easily higher than the stock passenger seat (bottom of the bucket is lower though). For maximum low you'd need: Lowest possible rails (likely custom) Side mount brackets (which means no slider) Aftermarket seat (most likely fixed back only)

Ah that makes a lot more sense, I missed that part. Yeah bigger is better in that climate! I can't imagine where you could mount a 25-row though besides between the rad and IC, shoehorning one of those under the headlight would win you a prize as a contortionist... Indeed, though a bigger core won't really help with that unless you can get air flowing through it -> needs a fan.

Ok here's an update for those playing at home – I wasn't convinced that the above was right and took the car back to the shop for further opinion. Here's what transpired: Rear brakes binding: Issues with the handbrake mechanism, slightly exacerbated by incorrectly installed brake pad clips (oops my bad) Tail shaft split pin touching slightly, causing a clicking noise What I don't quite understand is why the diff change would have upset the handbrake setup... But then again perhaps it didn't, it might have been me baking the brakes at Sandown a month ago. Anyhooooo I filled up just before and fuel consumption was up heaps, which makes sense if I've been riding the brakes. So yes, your fancy new mechanical LSD is meant to be heavier to turn than the OEM, but it's NOT meant to have stiffer spots or bind around the rotation. The car rides better now (surprise) and is noticeably less jerky around tight corners too. The only remaining issue is a very faint 'rattle' noise from the rear, only when decelerating, not audible on acceleration or coasting. I'll just chalk that up as a feature of the diff I reckon.

Pretty severe driving if you need an oil cooler on the street? I'm yet to see a street where you can sit on WOT for long periods... I've got a 19 row Mocal on RB25DET Neo at 20psi and it seems to be fine on the track.

My oil cooler mission was all kinds of painful: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462362-oil-cooler-too-eager-faulty-thermostat-or-incorrect-temp-sensor-location/ Learnings: - Do NOT buy a second hand kit - Do NOT buy a Mocal sandwich plate for a street car (too much flow when cold) or if you want to run any sensors (who doesn't?) - DO buy best quality hoses you can afford - DO buy kevlar hoses so you don't have to stuff around with garden hose over it to stop rubbing, like I did - DO install core in the guard instead of in inline with rad/AC/IC Tl;Dr - Cheap out upfront and you'll pay manyfold later. Do your homework.

Please try working through this list and report back: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326043-resolved-misfire-in-r34-gtt-rb25det-neo/

Just bled all 5 points at the ABS unit and all 4 calipers afterwards, no difference really. It's passable, but not brilliant. I drove another sedan recently, with a K-Sport front kit and Forza pads. Very sensitive pedal feel, reminded me of the AP Racing setup in my old Monaro, so nice. I'm still wondering if master cylinder replacement/rebuild is the best next step, I've tried pretty much everything else I think. I'm trying to get hold of Race Brakes to get a second opinion on the kit cost, $150 for a couple of rubber seals from Nissan is a bit steep. If that doesn't work then it's only booster and ABS unit left, both of which are an unlikely cause but you never know because of Murphy's law...