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V28VX37

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Everything posted by V28VX37

  1. V28VX37
    Also make sure you have good clamps to apply consistent pressure across the whole joint. I used Sikaflex for my boot lip spoiler, first go let it sit for 24 hours, it came off after a couple of months. Did some more sanding, re-installed and let cure for 48 hours with clamps, much better. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438115-how-to-install-boot-lip-and-roof-wing/ . It's only starting to let go a little now, two years later.
  2. V28VX37
    I found another item whilst clearing the shed today: 5. Davies Craig 678 Hydra-Cool Transmission Oil Cooler - Universal, 8 Cylinder – $80 This is the core only, in good working condition. I had it on my auto for less than a year until the car was converted to manual. These are also still available: 2. For sale an R34 GTT coupe steering rack with around 80,000kms on it, off a 1998 car. – $90 3. For sale used leaky Driftworks braided oil cooler hoses with crimped AN10 fittings, for spares – $50 4. For sale R34/R33 transmission parts – $100
  3. V28VX37
    I got some R33 GT-R OEM brake ducts off a forum member (thanks!). I went to measure them tonight and they're pretty hefty, the height is 50mm. I'm already height challenged in the front so mounting these beneath the undertray/liner is most likely not an option.. Does anyone run similar brake ducts in their R34 (GTT or GTR)? Is there any chance to squeeze these above the liner somehow? Otherwise I might have to set up vents and soft ducting from the fog light openings. It's a series 1 front bar.
  4. V28VX37
    Whoa that's pretty extreme! You're lucky, doesn't look like any damage to the window or the roof – and no accidents! I'm not too sold on aftermarket bonnets now having seen this...
  5. V28VX37
    Yeah fingers crossed Re break in, I've done mostly normal suburban driving and trying to take it easy for first few hundred km's. I did do about 10 min of figure 8's on the first day but it gets old pretty quickly. I actually had the diff on order before my last event but it never made it on time. Probably better that way, at least it gets a more peaceful run-in period before Sandown on October 1st.
  6. V28VX37
    Cheers. So just to be 110% clear, I'm going to bleed the 'outgoing' side only of the ABS unit i.e. the lines on the top (FL, FR, R)? The incoming lines on the side are the F and R from the master cylinder. I was surprised to find just a single line for the Rear but then I realised the ABS sensor system is in the diff, so I'm guessing both rears operate together. ... I also realised that I have about 3cm clearance between the turbo rear housing and the FL brake line (!). I'm guessing this will help cook the brakes much faster. I'm looking at fabbing a DIY heat shield divider out of thin steel before the next track day to put around the line.
  7. V28VX37
    Thanks mate! It's currently got the Nismo competition oil 2189E 75W140 (by Motul) in it that Nismo supplied it with. I'm actually not fussed about the noise or skipping, just want to be sure that the install is 100% right before taking it to the track in a month.
  8. V28VX37
    One more thing to add to the list of curiosities: I jacked up the rear of the car and when rotating the rear wheels a full circle it seems to jam/bind at one spot (neutral/no handbrake). I can rotate it through by hand but it's fairly tight. It's heavy-ish the rest of the way too but there's definitely a different feel to that one part. Is that normal with mechanical LSDs when unloaded, or is there an issue with the install?
  9. V28VX37
    Needs negative spacers, around -25mm or so
  10. V28VX37
    Slowly getting used to the diff, it's pretty skippy when cold around tight bends, needs a fair bit of clutching in. Great for the grocery runs. I haven't driven it a lot at higher speeds but I can hear it a bit more in 5th at 100km/h than the OEM, a bit of a whirr/hum type noise. I'm guessing this is normal too. Putting in a mechanical diff is great, so many new sounds to understand and decode!
  11. V28VX37
    Thanks man. If I need to get a new one the 2016 Bell Qualifier looks decent, it's ECE 22.05 Standard Certified. The CAMS Schedule D lists under Level A Standard 'E22 (with 03, 04 or 05 amendments)' – can anyone please confirm if this is the same?
  12. V28VX37
    Hey mate I'll grab the brake ducts and brace. Will PM.
  13. V28VX37
    Cheers. I've got an older helmet with the date worn off and scrutineers are sometimes a little iffy about it. I know that there's recent rule changes for fire extinguisher dates, what's the go with helmets?
  14. V28VX37
    Awesome! Entered, when do you reckon the supp regs will be up?
  15. V28VX37
    Thanks mate. I haven't pulled it out yet as I'd prefer at least installing some new seals before putting it back together. I reckon I'll start with bleeding the abs unit as per the above instructions to see if that improves it at all.
  16. V28VX37
    Nissan quoted me $150 for the rebuild kit only, feels pricey. Then again a new master is $500+
  17. V28VX37
    Bump
  18. V28VX37
    Thanks - is that the sequence or should it be pedal down, open/close, pedal up?
  19. V28VX37
    Thread resurrect. What damper settings are people running with their BC BR's with the default 8kg front, 6kg rear springs? Specifically on the track. Last time at Sandown I tried the following: Session 1: Full soft, it was very floaty Session 2: Full hard, very jittery on the crappy surfaces especially just before turn 2. Also the rear felt 'out of sync' with the front, not sure if that's because of the front heavy car? Session 3: Front full hard -8, rear full hard -12. This was better - more cohesive - but didn't get a full sense as I had to cut the session short. Those last settings were in line with the comments above that harder spring needs more damping, makes sense. Next time I'll probably try front full hard, rear full hard -8 or something. The BR's have 30 levels of damping adjustment.
  20. V28VX37
    No turbo on the Z AFAIK
  21. V28VX37
    Ok so the second hand booster+master fell through, the condition wasn't what I expected. Looking for a master rebuild kit now, next step is to call Nissan. I just went to have a good look at the ABS unit and really can't see anything that looks like a bleeder. Am I looking in the wrong spot?
  22. V28VX37
    What was the difference Greg? At my peasant power level the car only picked up another 10rwkw with the airbox lid and filter removed, same as a fluffy dice or a JDM sticker basically. One of the bigger differences in my setup was going from an X-Force cat to Venom 100cpi, that was significant. Also Tao in the photo above is that a boxed pod setup under that stealth lid?
  23. V28VX37
    Good idea, I'll give that a go. Does your ABS work ok on gravel/wet with the bigger master? I'm actually pretty keen on the 330mm rotor size so I could retain my 2 sets of 17" GTT stockies, both with decent tyres...
  24. V28VX37
    Amazing work, well done!! Thanks for sharing. The dyno sheets seem to list power as 'km', do you know the hp/kw figures? Also what's the registration process like in Poland, is it hard to get/keep a car like this registered?
  25. V28VX37
    There's a gazillion questions about this -> recommend a search. Short answer, nope it's won't run without the right ECU and tune. Secondly, and I know this is not necessarily sound helpful, but please don't do it. Once you've installed an intercooler, turbo intake, turbo injectors, turbo exhaust, turbo fuel pump, turbo ECU, turbo brakes, turbo swaybars, turbo everything you might just as well have sold your non-turbo and bought a real turbo. It's just not worth it.
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