Jump to content
SAU Community

V28VX37

Members
  • Posts

    2,058
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by V28VX37

  1. I've searched for these with no luck so here goes: Does anyone know where to get a BM50 brake master cylinder rebuild kit for the R34 GTT OEM BMC? Is the BM57 a plug-and-play upgrade over the BM50? Would I retain existing brake bias and ABS with it? The idea is to go bigger (front) brakes in the future so if upgrading BM57 is similar cost to rebuilding the BM50 that might be the go. Does anyone know if the R34 GT brake booster is the same as R34 GTT? The part numbers seem different but I'm not sure if the P/N is for the booster+master combo, and the GT master is definitely the smaller BM44. Thanks guys.
  2. Nice! A mate of mine has a 6 and another a 10. The 10 sees a lot of track and all he ever does is fill up the tank, which makes (not so) secretly wish I had bought an Evo instead of a GTT. But I'm sure the grass is always greener...
  3. Saw the story on SH, amazing cars, well done!!
  4. Also check fuel filter. Busted CAS can be hairy too.
  5. Found a couple of threads describing various Nismo/LSD noises: http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/general-tech/38460-clicking-lsd.html http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/66361-does-anyone-have-a-nismo-lsd-w-no-noise.html http://www.gtiroc.com/oldsite/forums/general-r-discussion/64428-nismo-lsd-fitted-normal.html ^^^From the first link Mine was occasionally clicking a little bit together with the rotating scuff/thump sound but only when coasting to a stop. It quieted down as soon as I accelerated. I'm going to assume the install is fine and just put it down as break-in noise, fingers crossed.
  6. Do it! Have you got space for two sedans?
  7. Got the car back tonight, first impressions: The diff is less noisy and skippy around tight corners than expected The diff is more noisy in neutral than expected (see below) You feel like a total tool doing figure eights in a deserted shopping mall car park I'm a complete noob with mechanical diffs - are they meant to be totally quiet in neutral/with clutch in? With all windows down I can barely hear anything when driving slowly in first gear or braking from slow speed, however I can hear a pulsating 'rotating scuff' sound when just slowly rolling downhill. Is this normal? If so I'm guessing it's because the diff in in neither accel or decel mode so the clutch packs are disengaged...?
  8. I got mine from Jesse Streeter, great service as always. I've sent you some more details by PM.
  9. Magic timing mate – my 1.5-way Nismo GT was installed today. I'm getting the car back tomorrow so very keen to see some confirmed break-in instructions for it! I didn't go the Pro as it was beyond my budget and I reckon I would rarely change the setting anyway. Greg (Kinkstaah) here was kind enough to let me take his car for a spin, he's running the GT also and it felt great, a bit noisy when cold but fine once warmed up even around tight bends. > 30min of 1st gear slow figure 8 after install This is what I've read also, primarily from Kaaz via http://www.drifting.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6800 and http://www.kaazusa.com/techhelp2.html Their diagram still doesn't make much sense to me, are you meant to do the cornering with clutch in?? The Nismo installation manual doesn't talk about the break-in procedure: http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/manual/ If anyone knows what the Nismo procedure is, please share!
  10. The Nismo diff is going in tomorrow, yay. Here's the type and part number: Nismo Mechanical LSD GT 1.5way for R34 GTT (38420-RS015-BA). Hopefully it goes in without much drama. What's the correct procedure for running one of these in?
  11. Ok so it's probably a little worse than it looks above. Best to take it in for assessment, hard to say based on a single photo. The kink at the C pillar makes it look like there's been a fair bit of force in the impact.
  12. That is a unicorn. Pick one. Other than that, I like the sound of an R32 with a 1JZ. Do it.
  13. I boiled mine couple of weeks ago at the track, turned out to be a leaking water temp gauge sensor mount that spat out just enough coolant for the system to start running dry. Here were some of the theories thrown around originally: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463353-post-track-day-qs-rotor-wear-gearbox-oil-ps-pump-manifold-nuts/?do=findComment&comment=7762451 If you're not in a rush you could try bleeding the system thoroughly yourself and carefully checking for leaks before taking it in?
  14. Do the doors open ok? How does the B pillar look with the doors open? How does the passenger side chassis rail look? Is there visible damage anywhere else?
  15. I'd hazard a 'yes' since it says Come and Try available. Should be good fun for all.
  16. The 780C came from this QFM page: http://qfm.com.au/page/6/Performance_Range Thanks, good to know! I need something that can take the Sandown 200->90km/h punishment down the front straight repeatedly, and I'm tossing between Intima SR or Forza FP3 as a step up from Remsa.
  17. Nice work!! That's some serious power, is that on 98 or E85?
  18. Nice one, thanks for sharing, great result! I had a similar deal with my water temps at Sandown couple of weeks back, would have cooked it a lot worse if it wasn't for the nagging Defi alarm. Also I often hear 'but you won't have time to look at gauges on the track', which is true – except for a quick glance on long straights. It's still much better than not knowing, and the alarms and max readings (checked after each session) are the real deal.
  19. Does anyone know who might be able to supply cooling duct brackets to suit the R34 front hubs, to channel air into the inside centre of the disc to feed the veins? The OEM heat shields have been cut off. I'm imagining something similar to this UAS Evo 6 kit - even a generic one might do:
  20. Very keen. Always excited to break the car in novel and unexpected ways.
×
×
  • Create New...