V28VX37

I probably wouldn't pay 25% more for that little increase in width. The other consideration is wheel size, if you're on skinny rims like me (7.5") apparently you'll start losing some handling sharpness to bulging when going up in tyre width. I run 235/45ZR17 KU36's on the street and 225/45ZR17 R888R's on the track, same 7.5" rims. I can't really say there's a massive difference in handling but they get driven very differently...

Yep I'm happy with it, it feels controlled and predictable on the track and compliant enough on the street. I ran the same coilover+swaybar setup with softer 6kg/5kg springs in street use only originally. It was great but once I took it to the track it was a bit rolly in the corners so decided to go stiffers springs - the BC's normally come with 8/6. Surprisingly there wasn't much difference in ride quality really . One thing to note about the ARC swaybars is that AFAIK they are hollow whereas the OEMs are solid, so the difference in stiffness is not quite as radical as it might look based on the diameter.

Wow I must be a true heretic then, shunned by both sides: BC Racing BR coilovers, 8kg front, 6kg rear springs ARC (Auto Refine Company) front swaybar 28mm diameter (stock bar = 22mm), non-adjustable ARC rear swaybar 25mm (stock bar = 18.5mm), three point adjustable, at the softest setting Semis on the track, more lateral grip = more roll

+1, I'm keen to do some flat undertray DIY aero at some point, this is a great inspiration!

Soooo nice, down to the super clean dash. Can't wait to see some videos.

Thanks for the tip Harry, exactly what I did. I'm really liking the R888R, even in my skinny 225/45ZR17 square setup. Very communicative and plenty of warning before they let go, in a progressive way. I'm new to semis so can only compare to street tyres, but still definitely recommended.

Yeah I had a similar issue with the box after the original installation but that was due to no breather hose at all. I added one and it's never chucked up since. As seen in the earlier photo the box was definitely full of oil in March, but now after recent oil change and track day 5-7mm below the edge or about 0.4L under full. I'll keep an eye on it as I'm concerned about the seal. Re cam seals, that would suck if it still leaks there, heaps of labor to get them changed... I'll see if it keeps leaking if it could be addressed under warranty or something. Good idea about the VCT, it's a stock Neo so that could be it too.

All sorted now. Worth checking those pesky codes every now and then

Cheers Tom Umm wat, I thought HSVs and most late model performance euros and exotics ran bi-modal/valved systems from factory, fully street legal? Or is just that they never get selected for 'random testing'?

Wow a steal at that price, GLWS

Digging up an old thread, I'm looking for a driveline specialist in Melbourne. I've always had some slack/backlash in the driveline since the manual conversion (all correct R34 parts), it 'clunks' when changing from 1st to 2nd especially. I wouldn't mind working out whether it's the clutch/flywheel, box itself, driveshaft balance/centre bearing, or the diff. Also looking at getting the following done: Engine rear main seal Input shaft seal and gasket Output shaft seal Spigot bush – if needed Driveshaft rebalance – if needed Gearbox mount Any recommendations in inner Melbourne or the north?

PM sent.

Ok so Haunted Hills was great fun other than the short configuration is too short half a day only so too few runs, and lots of waiting it's too far from Melbourne. But then again any track time is better than none, and $50 for come-and-try you can't go wrong To revisit the issues from March: 1. I had a full brake overhaul done recently: front calipers rebuilt, all rotors machined, all new pads, new fluid (Motul RBF600 312C). The brakes were sweet especially considering all the downhill braking in a heavy car, good pedal feel and no fade. 2. The gearbox oil was changed recently, with a fresh batch of Redline Lightweight Shockproof. However, when inspecting the car yesterday I noticed some gearbox oil on the underbody near the output shaft (opposite to the catalyser) and little on what looked like around the yoke too. I opened the filler and it was down, added about 0.4L in there. I'm trying to work out if this was a spill + underfill at oil change time, or a leak from the output shaft seal, what do you guys think? 3. The cam seals were done recently together with a full service kit (timing belt + all the other belts), which I hoped would have helped with the leak from the front left of timing cover. I think it has, but not 100% - what else could leak at this location, the head gasket?? 4. I haven't replaced the turbo-to-manifold nuts as yet, just keep on tightening them. They do work themselves loose over time with the severe temp changes at the turbo. I also noticed that plastic tubing around the O2 sensor wires was melted through, so have added some makeshift metal shielding around it. The turbo doesn't have a heat shield on. Cheers

Or easier still, a removable external exhaust silencer: http://www.ebay.com.au/bhp/exhaust-silencer . Good in theory at least but not much $ to test it out.

^^^ What he said. Best tyres you can afford. Standard upgrades for stock brakes: pads, braided lines, high temp fluid, new rotors of current ones are worn. These are heavy cars. Definitely an oil cooler. Oil & water temp gauges at a minimum. In fact if you're serious about track, it probably works out cheaper to buy a purpose built track-only GTT rather than building one yourself, it's a long hard road that. Check my105.com or Carsales to see what they go for, also there was a nice 300rwkw+ track only GTT coupe here on SAU with all the fruit for just over 10k.

I'm not sure how flexible IP.Board is but how about mandatory tagging e.g. FS, WTB, Private, Trader, and a couple of filters? Default to Show All but allow people to narrow down to see just sell/buy/private/trader posts?

Different floor pans. I wouldn't recommend modding it, instead get an R34 one from an importer and sell the R32 one.

15000+7 track days sounds pretty darn good to me, I wouldn't have thought you'd get much more out from any sticky tyres..?

Rs3

Rs3

Rebuild done, $420 for the fronts, drive in drive out. Bring on Haunted Hills on Saturday!

Thanks, that's what I gathered, otherwise everyone would already be running those right?

See my previous post above for how to read ecu codes without consult cable. No dash lights sounds sus, definite check the full list of codes

Old. But the Jay Leno's Garage of the new was excellent. Still, old.