V28VX37

If you're looking for a stock shaped metal intake pipe, talk to Scotty NM35 here.

Jumping back to brakes for a moment, does anyone know if there's any chance of adapting HVS/AP Racing calipers onto Skyline hubs? They're cheap as chips, a full 4-pot all-round kit with 365mm front and 350mm rear rotors for $2,799?! http://www.vsport.com.au/hsv-ve-vf-commodore-front-4-piston-365mm-rear-4-piston-350mm-brake-kit-2282 I ran a slightly smaller AP Racing kit on my old Monaro and it was fab.

Please check your ECU fault codes and report back. Instructions here, scroll down for a pic of which pins to short: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266512-reading-nissan-fault-codes-ecu-fault-codes-how-read-them/ I'm currently getting Code 17: ABS-TCS C/U Signal. My TCS never worked since the manual conversion but the ABS is fine. TCS and SLIP lights are on in the dash too, along with A/T and HICAS because they no longer exist... Fresh avatar Greg? And yes you're right it's not the most sophisticated system is it...

For anyone else using Harry's LapTimer, Haunted Hills is not listed on the standard track selection but you can still load it via Administration > Add-ons > search for Haunted... There are three configurations available: Eight Configuration Long Configuration Short Configuration Alex would you know which config Saturday will be run in? Ps. Current Moe forecast for Saturday is excellent

Great idea, anything is possible with enough determination. One would think a Nissan-to-Nissan transplant is easier than dropping in an engine from another manufacturer. I've been following this LS1 thread where a member bought a VF GTS wreck and transplanted everything into a VF wagon shell in less than 12 months ... massive job and very well done, massive credit to the owner: http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?169220-VF-GTS-Wagon/ Good luck! Subscribing

Besides being US centric and a little salesy this clip is not too bad for track day prep: Ammo NYC: Track Day Guide

Does dose pipe count? It sounds like sutututu

Ok after a couple of trips (!!) to the shop it should be all sorted now. The new Speedflow lines are good with the 45-degree elbow fittings they now clear the alternator properly. In case anyone reading this thread is considering the Driftworks oil cooler kit, the Mocal sandwich plate, or buying a kit second hand – don't do it. Here's why: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462142-r34-gtt-oil-cooler-installation/?p=7720004

Cross-posting the below update from here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461812-oil-cooler-recommendations-for-r34-gtt/?p=7719999 Well, it's been an epic saga but I think it's all sorted finally. Check this thread: http://www.sau.com.a...ensor-location/ I most certainly would not recommend the Mocal sandwich plate or the Driftworks kit overall: http://www.driftwork...ll-engines.html The Mocal plate doesn't have ports for sensors and it takes heaps of mucking around to work around that. Also the internal thermostat-controlled bypass port is tiny, meaning that the majority of the oil always goes through the cooler, irrespective of temperature, which is not ideal for a street car especially in Vic. The Driftworks kit comes with prefabricated hoses. They're really heavy duty but with scrimped fittings, so you can't change them or shorten the hoses. The main issue is that whilst one end has a 90-degree fitting the other is straight, and is really tough to route past the alternator in the RB25DET. In my install we had to bend the hoses too tight and they started leaking from the fittings -> new hose time. The Mocal core is ok. Also do not buy an oil cooler kit second hand. I can't stress this enough. I saw this advice before buying, chose to ignore it, and have paid the price many times over in headaches and labour. If I had my time again here's what I would get, all new parts: The Greddy/Grex sandwich plate. It's a better design than the Mocal with two sensor ports, a larger thermostat bypass port, and 45-degree angled in+out for the lines. Quality core: Setrab, Mocal or similar Quality lines and fittings: Speedflow, cut to suitable lengths and professionally assembled. I'd also get the Nomex/Kevlar type to save having to pad braided lines to prevent scuffing. I'd also install the cooler core underneath the right headlight if at all possible (mine's between the intercooler and radiator) for two reasons: Less impact on water temps in hot weather when pushed hard Ability add blocking plate over oil cooler without impacting other cores On a more positive note, my setup works well, out at Calder Park in February (mid 20C's) I never had to back off because of oil temps, and only a couple of times because of water. Hope this helps.

Well, it's been an epic saga but I think it's all sorted finally. Check this thread: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462362-oil-cooler-too-eager-faulty-thermostat-or-incorrect-temp-sensor-location/ I most certainly would not recommend the Mocal sandwich plate or the Driftworks kit overall: http://www.driftworks.com/thermostatic-oil-cooler-kit-for-all-engines.html The Mocal plate doesn't have ports for sensors and it takes heaps of mucking around to work around that. Also the internal thermostat-controlled bypass port is tiny, meaning that the majority of the oil always goes through the cooler, irrespective of temperature, which is not ideal for a street car especially in Vic. The Driftworks kit comes with prefabricated hoses. They're really heavy duty but with scrimped fittings, so you can't change them or shorten the hoses. The main issue is that whilst one end has a 90-degree fitting the other is straight, and is really tough to route past the alternator in the RB25DET. In my install we had to bend the hoses too tight and they started leaking from the fittings -> new hose time. The Mocal core is ok. Also do not buy an oil cooler kit second hand. I can't stress this enough. I saw this advice before buying, chose to ignore it, and have paid the price many times over in headaches and labour. If I had my time again here's what I would get, all new parts: The Greddy/Grex sandwich plate. It's a better design than the Mocal with two sensor ports, a larger thermostat bypass port, and 45-degree angled in+out for the lines. Quality core: Setrab, Mocal or similar Quality lines and fittings: Speedflow, cut to suitable lengths and professionally assembled. I'd also get the Nomex/Kevlar type to save having to pad braided lines to prevent scuffing. I'd also install the cooler core underneath the right headlight if at all possible (mine's between the intercooler and radiator) for two reasons: Less impact on water temps in hot weather when pushed hard Ability add blocking plate over oil cooler without impacting other cores On a more positive note, my setup works well, out at Calder Park in February (mid 20C's) I never had to back off because of oil temps, and only a couple of times because of water. Hope this helps.

Wow 700C temp rating, higher than the A1RM. How do the SR go on the track? My Intima SS's died on the hills, need some convincing to go back to Intima after that..

"This Ford Model T Coupe is painted in black with a correct black pleated leather interior. It is fitted with the desirable 'Rocky Mountain' brake system." via http://www.conceptcarz.com/events/eventVehicle.aspx?carID=15796&eventID=224&catID=1767

Thanks guys, booked in for a rebuild at Race Brakes next week.

(Sorry about the multi post, the app is playing up)

(Sorry about the multi post, the app is playing up)

Ok rebuild us going to be in the $500 ballpark, depending... Options:1. Bite the bullet and do it 2. Replace with second hand OEM calipers of unknown history 3. Aftermarket brake kit Rest of the front is fine Inc rotors pads lines so would be nice to get some use out of those... Suggestions?

Ok rebuild us going to be in the $500 ballpark, depending... Options:1. Bite the bullet and do it 2. Replace with second hand OEM calipers of unknown history 3. Aftermarket brake kit Rest of the front is fine Inc rotors pads lines so would be nice to get some use out of those... Suggestions?

Ok rebuild us going to be in the $500 ballpark, depending... Options:1. Bite the bullet and do it 2. Replace with second hand OEM calipers of unknown history 3. Aftermarket brake kit Rest of the front is fine Inc rotors pads lines so would be nice to get some use out of those... Suggestions?

Hi all, I've been having a look around trying to find good online resources for learning circuit racing techniques (entry level). There's no substitute for track time of course but it's scarce so I'm keen to hear about any online content worthwhile reading or watching in the meantime? In terms of explanation of various techniques, DrivingFast.net appears one of the better ones: http://www.drivingfast.net/ This one's made me think differently, the only way to up pace is to first improve consistency: Consistency -- How To Become a Better Track Day Driver -- Hooked On Driving The whole SAFEisFAST series is excellent, though aimed at a more professional level drivers: SAFEisFAST All episodes: https://www.youtube.com/user/SAFEisFAST/videos Here's one of them: Advanced Driving Techniques: Hitting the Apex A fairly technical view into heel & toe and what happens in the driveline: What Is Heel & Toe? (Downshifting) Please feel free to add any good stuff you've come across below

I am interested in the warning lamp and harness depending on price, if you're willing to separate?

I'm onto my third set of Remsas now, also with T3 rotors, HEL braided lines etc. Stock R34 GTT calipers, never had any issues with noise, off or on the track. Strange. I've also just pulled my anti squeal half shims out to try to address unever pad wear, was fearing for the worst re noise, nothing.

The wiring to the front sensor is damaged, looking to replace it next week.

Just be mindful with the rolling to use lots of heat. I had a backyard job done on my rear guards, one ok one cracked, great fun trying to repair the paint. If you want a proper job done talk to Try Track, they have a specialist who does expensive cars. This said I was quoted $300 plus for rears only... But as most things I'm guessing you get what you pay for.

Sounds awesome. Would you be able to post a photo of the dump mod please? Keen to see how much work is required to upgrade from an old SS2... Stao out of curiosity, can the new SS2 be built in a way that is fully plug-and-play with a 2013 SS2? Although I'd still want to go ext gate off stock manifold, because more dose...