V28VX37

...to get more grip perhaps? It's probably not as extreme as with semis but I'm pretty sure that the same street tyre will grip better at 32psi than 42psi...?

Slip-on spacers come in <15mm but definitely not recommended. Hub centrics are the way to go but the minimum thickness is either 15mm or 20mm. OP have you considered the obvious solution - just add negative camber? It'll keep the look and reduce rubbing, at the cost of tyre wear and handling. #stancedyo

Btw if I had the space the 370Z Sport brake package looks awesome: 355mm fronts, 350mm rears. Not sure if anyone makes adapters for these... http://www.370z.com/MagazineArticles/tabid/57/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/11/Nissan-370Z-Brakes.aspx

Yeah I'm actually happy with the current brake setup in general, it's just that my pistons are starting to seize and I'm pretty sure rebuild won't be cheap. Hence looking at options to potentially upsize. Keen on ducting too Have you got some for yours?

AP Racing at least, possibly others

Yeah 330 is probably the target unless 343 can be squeezed on. Not keen on 324/326 as it's a tiny increase over the stock 310mm..

I've never seen anything as dusty as the Remsa, they start dusting if you as much as glance at them.. I'm fully expecting to find a little ants nest of dust next to the rims each morning.

Yep A1RMs probably perform a touch better but have been reported to chew rotors.Remsas are 650C temp rating, A1RM are 780C.

Some more recent updates: Front Brake Disc Discolouration On The Inside Post Track Day Q's: Rotor Wear, Gearbox Oil, Ps Pump, Manifold Nuts Largest Brakes Under R34 Gtt Stock 17" Wheels? About 15,000 km and three track days later I'm still running the original setup as per this thread, with minor updates: Just had all rotors machined and fresh Remsa pads put on. Half shims removed to address uneven pad wear (2), this seems to have improved pedal feel also Heat shields removed on the inside (1), interesting to see if that cools down the rotors better on the track I'm keen to add some ducting at some stage if I can find some decent backing plates that don't cost a fortune...

Rob and I did a trial fit of the GTT stock wheel tonight (with lug nuts acting as ~20mm spacers) and can confirm that it will NOT clear over the AOR 350mm kit. It's not far off but enough to make a 343mm setup very much touch-and-go too - I think it will come down to the shape of the caliper really. Thanks heaps Rob for your help on this! Ps. With the wheel nut torque 100-110Nm should be a good range based on my research (e.g. http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/26-wheels-suspension-tyres-brakes/21254-wheel-nut-torque.html )

Shotgun on manual gear shifter surround...?

I may be going blind but where can I subscribe to the newsletter?

My cheapo SCA crapped itself too so I went to Big Red Jacks in Tullamarine to have a look at their stock. I ended up buying a Torin T815005L 1.5 ton Aluminum Racing Jack, I think it was $150 from memory. Details: http://www.bigredjackste.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_205&product_id=272 Before you buy read the reviews, they're a bit mixed: http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T815005L-Aluminum-Racing-Jack/dp/B0027VFZE6 My jack has gone really well so far. It's pretty light to move around and lifts quickly even though it's a single pump only. Min height is listed as 90mm. My car is moderately low, I can (just) lift it under the wheel arch with the wheel at full lock. It's a bit fiddly though so I normally just drive the car on some ramps and lift it from the front. I've found that the real issue with low cars and jacks is not actually the min height, it's the length of the jack body. A medium size jack like this is just not long enough to allow the handle to move up and down when the arm is under the front cross member. Let us know how you go.

Thanks I'll look into that.

You wouldn't have R34 manual gear shifter surround by any chance?

Haha that would have been way too easy, the curse continues. I had all my gear set up for the job until I realised that the new Speedflow fittings require a 1" imperial spanner, doh. You need crows feet because of the location, which are impossible to get any over the weekend. I then decided to try adding some metal padding to a 27mm crowfoot to make it into a 1" one, that worked pretty well. Anyway I then drop the oil, disconnect the first hose fitting, only to find that the guys have used stacks of sealing paste, also on the flange No way I can get it cleaned well enough for a proper seal. Back to the workshop it goes... ... My previous most hated car job was removing metal sleeved bushings but it's now facing some very stiff competition from the oil cooler.

Resurrecting old thread because I have a related issue. I just disconnected the CAS to crank and fill out the oil lines without starting, and needed to clear Code 11 & engine light afterwards. In addition to Code 11 I also got the following two codes on Nissan DataScan: Code 17: ABS-TCS control unit circuit apparently – TCS has never worked since manual conversion, not sure if there's a fix? Luckily ABS does Code 34: Knock Sensor circuit Resetting the ECU cleared 11 and 17 but code 34 reappears each start. I take it that my knock sensor is dead, or is there possible cause for this? Car is an R34 GTT and moderately modified.

From the reading I did when doing my manual conversion you'll need to swap over the bellhousing to change from pull to push. There may be some pointers in this thread: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139916-diy-r34-manual-conversion-using-r33-parts/ It might be tidier to sell the clutch and buy a pull type. That way you could onsell the old 33 box too.

Cool thanks, I might take you up on the trial for offer, will pm tonight

Thanks man, is that with the 350mm front discs? Brilliant thanks mate! I'd say the 350mm setup is out then, though it would be great to test it with the 20mm spacer on... I'll keep an eye out if anyone has 343's or 330's for a quick trial fit

Got new pre-assembled Speedflow hoses going in this weekend, great service from MSCN Moorabbin. Hopefully those will finally fix the leak. Also found this good writeup on diagnosing AN fitting leaks in case anyone else is looking: http://www.vsetrack.com/track_reports/2010/an_fittings/an_seals.htm

GTTR34 is correct, it's fork type on the GTT.

I might drop in for a bit too to say hi

Ok I know that I just need to go and trial fit the wheel over some actual brake setups but ... in the meantime did some back-of-the-envelope calculations for different rotor sizes: Rotor|Surface+|Volume+ 310 | - | - 324 | 17% | 15% 330 | 25% | 22% 343 | 42% | 37% 350 | 52% | 45% These are all somewhat optimistic figures, assuming that the disc surface start radius is the same for all sizes, 30mm rotor thickness, and 25% hollow rotor volume. Anyway what I was trying to work out is whether the 33/34 GT-R 324mm Brembos would be a worthwhile upgrade – I don't think so. I think the main options keeping the original rims are the 343mm and 330mm rotors (or thereabouts) – which size is most common in terms of disc & caliper (read: the most affordable to acquire and replace)? Cheers

I got the car back from the workshop today: All rotors machined New pads all around All front half shims and clips removed Gear oil changed (went with Shockproof Light again) They also worked out that the leak at the front top left of the engine was the cam seals. We then decided to do the whole timing belt + belts + pulleys + water pump service kit whilst at it, so it got expensive really quickly... Lucky it was done though, couple of the pulleys were in a pretty bad shape. Anyway Duncan was right, the front brake pistons are starting to seize. So next up it's either rebuild time, find replacement OEM calipers, or go aftermarket. I'll run it as is for a while whilst deciding... Thanks for all your help and input everyone!