V28VX37

Ok so I took some measurements of the R34 GTT stock wheels tonight: Wheel size is 17x7.5" (yes they're skinny) and I'm pretty sure offset is +40 (it says 40 and SK40 on the inside spokes), plus I'm running 20mm spacers all around ~390mm inner diameter at the wheel mounting surface (the line you see in the photo) ~415mm inner diameter at the wider barrel ~78mm wheel face to mounting surface ~120mm wheel face to wider barrel My current caliper clearance is about 18mm, measured from the caliper edge to the narrow part of the barrel. As mentioned I would love to run the Evo 350mm kit but I'm pretty sure it won't clear, would love to test it though! If anyone can confirm inner diameter of their aftermarket 17" wheel (at narrowest point) and which larger-than-stock discs and calipers they're running, that'd be ace

Just read the whole thread, so much win!! Thanks again Richo for helping me track down the high RPM whine at Calder too. Those darn turbo-to-manifold nuts...

Semi related (pun) to this thread – what would you guys recommend running for a hill climb? I've signed up for the Haunted Hills intro next month and have the following options: Street rims: Kumho KU36 (UTQC 180) Track rims: Toyo R888R (UTQC 100) I'm guessing it might be hard to get enough heat into the Toyos to be effective on short runs...?

Mine developed a high pitched whine/whistle at >4000rpm at Calder Park last time, was racking my brains until one of the SAU guys told me it's 99% turbo-to-manifold nuts – and it was. Very easy one to test: bend back your locking clips (mine were perfectly aligned, still had all four nuts loose!) and use a 17mm ring spanner to tighten, preferably with a hot engine. Good luck

Sounds great, entered for the afternoon as per instructions, see you there!

Thanks – Would you happen to know the inner diameter of the Teks at all?

I've just checked the hub play by lifting the car up and grabbing the wheel 12-to-6, can't really feel any. There's a little play in the steering when going sideways 9-to-3, which I suspect is the original tie rod ends. I've got a full set of new Remsa pads, I'll get the rotors machined, ditch the half shims on all front pads and see how I go. Fingers crossed.

^^^ One of the best looking 33's out there, love the colour, and this photo is totally rad!! Top mount FTW

That's a 324mm disc from memory? Similar to 33/34 GT-R factory Brembos?

Would you recommend dropping the inner full shims also, or just the outer halfies?

Thanks mate! I'll get the discs machined and put fresh pads in without the shims, see how we go.

I'm keen to go this way, the weep seems to be getting worse now I had a look at the usual brands (Speedflow, Earls, Proflow) and looks like I'm up for $400 plus for the two hoses (115cm and 135cm), with 45 and 90 degree hose end fittings, does this sound about right? I know I shouldn't skimp on price (look where that got me) but it does feel a bit exxy... Also is there a shop in Melbourne that sells this stuff or am I best off just ordering online?

PM'd, I've amassed a bit of a collection of OEM and aftermarket coil packs...

Get someone to FAST your VIN number here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128496-vins-you-want-fasted/page-233 That'll give you build date, original engine/trans/colour configuration etc. Early-to-mid R32's are probably worth 4-7k depending on the condition and mods, check Carsales and Gumtree for reference. For highly modified examples it's usually better to part them up than try to sell the car as a whole, provided that you have plenty of time on your hands.

Nope didn't machine the rotors or bleed the brakes. Pedal feel is fine, perhaps needs a touch more pressure than before, which I attribute to the skewed pad wear. Bedding in was done correctly, following the QFM instructions: http://qfm.com.au/userfiles/files/BEDDING-IN-PROCEDURE.pdf ... But yeah track days are tough on the car, in addition the what's already listed earlier: The oil cooler hose weep is slowly getting worse, so I will have to get the hoses replaced soon: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462362-oil-cooler-too-eager-faulty-thermostat-or-incorrect-temp-sensor-location/?p=7678751 There's an occasional high RPM misfire, which I hope is the coil packs, so I've chucked in brand new Splitfires last night It's big $/km on the track I tell you...

Oooo LS 4door - any fresh photos or videos anywhere?

My thoughts exactly

Yeah all four pistons on each side go in fine (well, as well as they normally do), otherwise I wouldn't have been able to get the new pads in.

Any suggestions on how to check for seized brake pistons? Also is there anything else to check for wheel bearings except for the classic 12 o'clock + 6 o'clock shake?

Yes it's for R33 but pretty much all the possible oil cooler location options are documented in this thread: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79130-r33-oil-cooler-installation/ I read it top to bottom before installing mine, great info. Ideally you'd want your oil cooler under left or right headlight behind the front bar so it's not in line with intercooler, A/C core and radiator. However depending on the size of your oil cooler core this may not be possible, especially presuming you have IC piping running on both sides since it's a GT-R.

No worries. Here's some things you might want to look at with a misfire: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326043-resolved-misfire-in-r34-gtt-rb25det-neo/ It's for a Neo but many of those things would apply for the 26 too I'm presuming.

What's the reason for change, misfire? Could be any number of things given it's an RB, not just coil packs.. The Ignition Projects units that Dino has on his GT-R look pretty trick: http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/10/a-spark-of-efficiency-project-gtr/ Very pricey though. OEM is another option, although not cheap either.

That wing looks great! Which one is it? Wheels look familiar too, dark stockier? I've got the same as my track wheels

How many lols per wow is that? I mean l/100km?

Did you try the wheel on? Would love to know how close it is.. I had 350mm AP racing kit on my previous car, they're big brakes.