V28VX37

Will do, although I'm not sure about the simple part as all calipers are slightly different shapes and sizes..? Ideally I'm keen to hear that someone runs XYZ calipers with 3xx mm discs and stock wheels with no issues.

Hi guys, I did a quick search but can't find a clear answer: What's the largest verified brake kit you can fit behind R34 GTT stock 17" wheels? I'm running 20mm spacers too so have more clearance behind the spokes. I'd love to run the 350mm disc + Evo 9 caliper conversion but I'm not convinced it'll fit. I really want to avoid changing rims as I have two sets of these, with good new street and track rubber.. Thanks heaps

Sorry is this in reference to the R34 GTT stock wheel? By the barrel do you mean the inner diameter or the wheel? I'm running 20mm spacers all around not sure if that will help with clearance?

Do you need to pay extra for sutututu?

Do you need to pay extra for sutututu?

Bummer. All pistons did move back fully when compressed during pad change but I'm not sure if that proves anything. Is there any way to check for seized pistons? What's the remedy, a caliper rebuild? Probably little point in rebuilding stock calipers unless it's very cheap (unlikely).

Yeah they're fine but eventually you'll want more, as always. I've got a $1,000 budget set up in it's been fine for Sandown and Calder in my full weight R34 sedan, though I'm not a brave braker (yet). DBA discs, Remsa 650C cheapie pads, braided lines, high temp fluid, BMC stopper. Details here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448613-r34-gtt-brake-improvement-without-breaking-the-bank/ I ran last two track days with fresh R888R real semis with a skinny 225/45R17 square setup, no issues with braking performance (except uneven pad wear but that's a different story: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463353-post-track-day-qs-rotor-wear-gearbox-oil-ps-pump-manifold-nuts/ ).

^^^ This. If you want to lower your car properly – read: without camber wear – you'll need a full set of aftermarket adjustable arms: Front camber arms Front castor rods (optional) Rear camber arms Rear tension rods Don't even bother with the eccentric bushing kits they're a waste of time not to mention super hard to install. Buy a full kit from say GKtech, install it all in one hit, set desired ride height, get a full alignment, done. No point in doing this in dribs and drabs.

An interesting dilemma. It can be done but you'll have to compromise somewhere. On the plus side you'll be saving money not having the outgoings for two cars, especially if you're into modding both as that's double the expense... I've had the 34 sedan for five years, it's the daily (well, weekly) and saw track twice last year and once this year so far. Yes there's something to fix every time afterwards (latest score: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463353-post-track-day-qs-rotor-wear-gearbox-oil-ps-pump-manifold-nuts/ ) but I think that's with anything that sees the track, it's mechanically tough on the car. I'd hesitate to track the car on the weekend if I had to drive to work on the Monday though... If I had my time again I'd probably go an Evo, they're regularly the quickest around the track and have the four door usability plus great aftermarket support. Whatever you do buy someone else's (well built) project, you'll save 10's of thousands on the mods easy. Yes it'll be 'bought not built' but so what, and you can blow the savings on track days Let us know how you go

Just measured my old pads, here's the difference in pad material thickness: Side 1 inner pad 0.33 mm Side 1 outer pad 1.05 mm Side 2 inner pad 0.46 mm Side 2 outer pad 1.1 mm So the good news is that I don't think it's my installation, however the bad news is that the car is chewing the outer pads pretty badly. I'm pretty sure it's the half shims, the anti-squeal ones: I think I could either ditch all half shims, or just the outer ones – what do you guys think? I think I'm up for another new set of pads too + possibly machining the rotors

Ok so I just pulled the pads out to check them, not looking good (these are the RH pads, outer on the left): I measured each pad and found the following difference between the inner (centre of disc) and outer (rim of disc) thickness: LH inner pad: 0.26mm LH outer pad: 0.67mm RH inner pad: 0.12mm RH outer pad: 1.01mm !! The RH outer pad is the worst by far but the LH outer one doesn't look that flash either I'm keen to check against my previous set just to see if there's any similarities in the wear. What could be the cause? Have a damaged the pistons during installation or something? Also do you guys normally machine your rotors when changing pads? Could that be the cause?

This is how my R34 GTT sedan rear looks, not sure if it's the same as coupe or not:

OEM bushes are a major PITA to get out, aftermarket bushes go in no worries (unless they're steel sleeved). I've done front control arms and rear camber, HICAS and diff bushes 'at home' - with and without access to a workshop press - and can't recommend enough leaving it to a professional. If you want to give it a go start with some of the arms that you can pull out of the car completely and see how you go. Getting the metal sleeve out is the worst part. Make sure you use something that matches the OD of the sleeve exactly to get it out neatly. Many people use sockets, some use a hacksaw, neither are the best for this job. Always measure OD and ID of all bushes before commencing with the swap - my SPF diff bushes with triple-checked part number were about 1mm off (too big OD) with no chance in hell going into the subframe. Oh and diff bushes can be done on the car if you've got special tools. Subframe out is a big job as you need to pull the hubs off. For what you're wanting to do I'd say 1-2 days labour at a workshop so you're looking at a couple off grand for the whole rear. Or you can spend a week DIY'ing it Good luck.

I filled mine by running a hose into the filler hole behind the front right tyre (at full lock). Sounds like filling from the top might be easier - do you just pour it in at the base of the shifter?

Here you go mate: Looks quick. That's a Very Big Wing, I like it.

^^^This. I don't know how why it's so hard but kms/tank is so not a useful measure, even if you know the (dry) tank size, as it's never 100% empty or full. For a useful measure of economy you need to look at l/100km (or MPG), over time. What turbo and how much power? 18l/100kms is not necessarily that bad, depending on context. Here's some of my figures for comparison (275rwkw @ PULP, Hypergear SS2, 850cc injectors, Walbro 255): Freeway 10-12l/100km City 12-15l depending on traffic Track 20+ Stop-start traffic absolutely kills any economy. Still, my previous 5.7L cam+heads 290rwkw+ LS1 was north of 20L BP98 in city traffic, so in comparison the Skyline is an econobox

Yep defo check the battery mate, a new one helped with my starts. Another thing to check is any dodgy leads off the battery, I had a really bad bodge job connector off my plus terminal that kept cutting out randomly and the car stalled in traffic (it was auto back then). It took $100's and lots of gray hair to diagnose it because it was so obvious everyone overlooked it Also my misfire saga writeup is here, might have a couple of other pointers: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326043-resolved-misfire-in-r34-gtt-rb25det-neo/ Edit: How's your idle with the Splitfires, 100% no hiccups? I'm thinking of potentially replacing my current YJ's with them...

Sedan systems are hard to come by, you may want to consider a custom one depending on budget. Good luck

Stacks of stuff, and I can only remember one issue with a non car-related product. eBay is good. For very specific JDM stuff I go to RHDJapan and Streeter

Good update cheers Did you check your times at Sandown at all? I had some oversteer at Sandown early last year, adjusted my rear swaybar and put in stiffer springs all around, went back December and it felt great. There's a gazillion ways to address over/understeer behaviour, sounds like alignment will be a good start (with the whole 'change one thing at a time' logic). Where to next with the turbo? I'm tempted to upgrade to the latest SS2 at some stage on the 34 and go ext gate off the stock manifold, we'll see... ZX's looking good!

I've been happy with Remsa from BrakesDirect for my R34 GTT standard calipers. Dusty as hell though.

Hey Charles you wouldn't have the shifter surround by any chance? If so first dibs Rare as hen's teeth!

Quick update on this, I just received a set of replacement tyres (Kumho KU36's) from the retailer and the second set of Goodyears is being returned to them for inspection. Just in case anyone lands here googling for Goodyear F1 Asymmetric 2 inner sidewall cracking, here's the notes that sent back to the retailer: I never got any refund for the first set and had to fight real hard for the second one despite the identical symptoms ... I can assure you that I won't be buying Goodyears again anytime soon.

KU36 going on the car today. It's no Rs3 but I couldn't turn down free replacement tyres. Also if you're ever considering Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2, don't. I have had two sets and both developed cracks in inner sidewalls in under 2 years and 20,000 kms.