V28VX37

KU36 going on the car today. It's no Rs3 but I couldn't turn down free replacement tyres. Also if you're ever considering Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2, don't. I have had two sets and both developed cracks in inner sidewalls in under 2 years and 20,000 kms.

Likewise, second dibs, posted to Melbourne?

Whoa given the conversation above I think I'll just stick with my Shockproof Light. It seems to work and I don't like mixing oils & not keen to have to clean the box. Also with the 'clinginess' I think there'd be a big difference between Light and Heavy. I also just learned that there's superlight too: http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=8 They also seem to warn about synchros with the Heavy variant only. I remember reading somewhere that that's the one to use with a crunchy/worn gearbox.

You mean for the signal? I don't think so, all the signals go into the control unit and I believe the Defi Link daisy chain is a pretty basic serial bus that drives the stepper motors in the gauges. The gauges do have an alarm output for an external light for when the set alarm level is reached.

What's the lowest you guys are reading for oil pressure? Mine's around 2 bar in normal driving but I have seen it drop down to around 1.2 bar when going from proper throttle to decel (clutch in). I'm guessing this is normal?

Fair enough. Will it run ok and with safe AFR with no tune?

Yeah ok, I've still got the original dump and HKS Super Drager rear muffler but everything between has been changed ... basically the R33 coupe system was originally hacked to fit my 34 sedan but I was never super happy with the way it saw, was way too low and scrapey. I got the system redone with a new mid muffler and new piping, all tucked in property. It sits really well now and flows excellent with a Venom cat, but is really droney at ~2000rpm. Since the car is a weekender I don't really care but given that I originally paid $250 for the 33 catback and have since spent probably 1k+ to modify and remodify it, it's not something I would recommend. Just get a reputable exhaust shop to make you a custom system, or get an entry level system like X-Force, much easier. But perhaps if you're going 33 coupe -> 34 coupe it's easier.

Great thanks for confirming!Yeah I'd buy the debris theory if it wasn't both sides exactly the same.. But yeah Brakes Direct reckon it'll be fine and even out over time so I think I'll just keep an eye on it.

Take it to a different workshop, too much hassle swapping around headlights etc. I had no issues getting a roady on my 34 GTT back five years ago.

^^^ What Johnny said. There is no 'quick fix' way to magic up power reliably, start with some planning so you can do it once, do it right.

Here are the two shims piled up, so listing from the top: Locking clip – top left corner Anti-squeal shim (?) – the one the is only 2/3 of the width of the pad, and narrows slightly towards the bottom Cooling shim (?) – the one in the photo above, with the 8 cutouts/slits Brake pad You can see that the pistons clamp (partially) against the anti-squeal shim, and since that's only 2/3 of the pad width there would be more pressure on the outside of the disc, right? This is how the shims came on all four front pads so I assume it's the correct setup?

Ok cool I'll look into the VMX80. As mentioned I haven't had any issues with Redline (except that it likes spilling out without a breather hose ) and I chose to put it in originally since the R34 box I put in as part of my manual conversion was an unknown quantity. The box shifts well but it's definitely not pristine so hard to say how it would go with a more 'standard' oil. I agree that shifting probably kills boxes more than the oil ... except if it's an auto, and the oil's never been changed, which is probably most of them With the brakes, BrakesDirect reckon that wear is fine and to be expected since I didn't machine the rotors. I'll keep an eye on it for the next little while until the pads wear in a bit more. I hear what you're saying about cleaning under the rotors - I did all of that when I put the new DBA rotors in in late 2014 and they haven't been off the car since. Also since the disc wear looks the same on both sides I don't think it's an anomaly. Good suggestions regarding the brake assembly lube too, and the turbo nuts! I'll get some better fasteners. Yep got them, they were intact and bent against the nuts, and the nuts still came loose... Yep I think you're right, it's probably the spacer. Also given that the turbo is a HyperGear ATR43SS2, which is much bigger than heavier than the standard turbo, and sitting at the end of the spacer to make it fit, there's a lot more force on the studs and nuts than with the stock setup. Given this and the significant temperature changes the nuts can work themselves loose, one of the SAU guys at Calder said that this is really common. Yes exhaust is hooked into the cross member near the cat, but it doesn't have a flex joint. I think locking nuts + checking at the track is the go. Thanks guys!

Good service from BrakesDirect: I let them know that the rotors were not machined and got the following: So all good on the brake front.

Cheers mate. What do you use?

A bit more on the brake shims, there are two shims in there, this type: And then also a metallic 'half width' one, which I'm guessing is the anti-squeal shim? It's roughly like in this sketch: Could that shim be causing wear like that? It's on the outer edge so it would make sense that there's more clamping on that side?

Cheers mate. Do you know what goes in that little power steering hose? It's got a clamp at the end but feels loose so I've added another cable tie too, will keep an eye on it.

Yep definitely the right pads, they go all the way to the inner edge of the rotor surface too, just uneven looking clamping. I have the stock shims in there that could theoretically cause something like this but I had them with the previous pads too with no issues. I might email BrakesDirect and ask for their opinion.. I've been happy with Redline so far, no issues.

Suggest spending a bit more and getting a new Venom. This way you don't have to do it twice like I did because of restrictions (stock -> Xforce -> Venom).

Couple of random happy snaps: https://www.flickr.com/photos/v28vx37/albums/72157663002974714 IMG_1596 by v28vx37, on Flickr

For reference, here's the peak readings from Sunday's track day (ambient temp around 24C): Exhaust 900 C (at dump) Water 108 C Oil 117 C Oil pressure 6.0 bar Boost 1.45 bar (should probably dial that back a little...) This is after the oil cooler installation with virtually no cool down laps (short sessions though), the cooler made a big difference.

Hi all, I did a track day at Calder Park on Sunday (it was awesome), couple of general maintenance questions from that: 1. I just replaced my front pads before the track day and bedded them in + ran on the street about 150kms to get them ready. They were replaced like for like: Remsa -> Roadhouse, which is the same 650C pad, and I put all the shims etc. back the same way they were before. After the track day I'm seeing what looks like uneven rotor wear on both sides. It looks like the pads are not clamping the centre of the disc as much as the outer. Is this something to worry about? 2. I checked the gearbox oil before the track day and the box was full, which is good. However the oil itself looks a bit bubbly/cloudy, see pic below. It's Redline Lightweight Shockproof and about 16,000 street kms and 3 track days old - is it good to run further or time to replace? 3. I had the PS rack and pump reconditioned recently and it looks like it's sprung a leak near the PS pump, at the top front left corner of the engine/head. I'm not 100% sure but one of the thin rubber lines running right behind the timing cover looks pretty wet, does anyone know what this is? It runs off the PS pump among several other things. The left hand side of the engine is a bit wet but I'm not sure if it's PS fluid, coolant or what. Any suggestions on how to remedy? 4. The turbo-to-manifold nuts came loose at the track with a nice big whistle at high revs/boost. Thanks to the SAU team I managed to tighten the top two and the bottom rear one, however the bottom front one seems like mission impossible. Is there a way to get to it without removing the whole intake system and/or turbo? Some special clever tool perhaps? It's a 17mm nut. Thanks guys!

Ok ppl with your fancy screwdrivers, do you just lever off the disc to push the pistons in? Or chuck something in between?

Here's what the front rotors look like after about 13,000 street kms and 3 track days - I reckon they've been pretty hot: I'm yet to cut off the rear shields.

Hehe yeah it's pretty basic ... however if it saves me an hour next time it'll be worth the $25

^^^ Holy crap!! Now THAT is a car meet!!!