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Also driving a couple of k's from cold start you can feel the oil cooler feed hose getting warm whilst return stays cool. Does this mean the thermostat is not working?

Hi guys I've just finished installing a Driftworks oil cooler kit with Mocal core and thermostatic sandwich plate in my R34. It looks like I might have an issue, I just did a long drive on the freeway and can't get the oil temp up, it's sitting between 55 and 60. Water is sitting at 80, Defi gauges. I can think of a couple of causes: 1. Maybe the thermo pellet in the sandwich plate is not working and the cooler circuit is stuck open? Trying the core by hand it's hot but not unbearable. 2. I previously had the Defi temp sensor in a separate sandwich plate with oil flowing through it. For this install the workshop removed the factory pressure sensor and teed off that point - is it possible that the temp reading is inaccurate when it's measured at a 'dead end'? Any ideas welcome, thanks guys!

Ok I just got the car back last night, the workship did a neat job with the sandwich plate and hoses. It looks like I have an issue though, I just did a long drive on the freeway and can't get the oil temp up, it's sitting between 55 and 60. Water is sitting at 80. I can think of a couple of causes: 1. Maybe the thermo pellet in the sandwich plate is not working and the cooler circuit is stuck open? Trying the core by hand it's hot but not unbearable. 2. I previously had the temp sensor in a separate sandwich plate with oil flowing through it. For this install they removed the factory pressure sensor and teed off that point - is it possible that the temp reading is inaccurate when it's measured at a 'dead end'? Any ideas welcome, thanks guys!

Yeah no idea why they are $95 at GSL and $85 at BrakesDirect, it's the same company?! Anyway, go cheapest

Nice build, subscribed. Origin also make a boot lip, here's how mine turned out together with the Origin roof wing: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438115-how-to-install-boot-lip-and-roof-wing/

Here's the writeup of my install just in case it's helpful: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462142-r34-gtt-oil-cooler-installation/

Oh awesome I have two, one for each hand! Ooo that'll be a fun project...

^^^ That last pic ... droooool

Ok cool, do you just cut around the hub or do the shields come off somehow? Yeah I'm pretty sure they'd be cooked, my December track day at Sandown was in 37 degrees That said I did do heaps of cool down laps and never noticed any degradation of braking performance. I'll check the temp markers when I get the car back, it's at the shop getting the steering rack recoed. Note to self: Never move to Radelaide. That Regency thing sounds like a major PITA.

Cheers. See how half of the inside 'edge' part of the disc is gray instead of rusty red like the rest of the disc edge? That's what I was referring to. But yeah I'm wondering if I should DIY some brake ducts, might save the heat shields for that

Thanks Adam. Yep I know about the temp indicators, it's just the rotor colour that got me puzzled. There's no effect on braking performance that I've noticed.

Hi all, I was working on the car recently and noticed a curious discolouration of my front rotors. It's only on the inside edge of the disc on both sides of the car. Otherwise the discs look fine, even wear and no signs of cracks. I have DBA T3 4000 Series slotted rotors all around with the standard R34 GTT Sumitomo calipers, Remsa 650C pads, HEL braided lines and Dixcel high temp fluid. The rotors have about 15,000 km and two Sandown track days on them. Has anyone else seen this, is it anything to worry about? Could the inside of the disc be running hotter because of the backing plates and less airflow? Cheers

Good stuff, keep us posted. Happy for you to test fit the SRIs if you decide to go that way As mentioned the crush tube/bolt diameter was what I had issues with, I'm guessing it might be slightly different with different models.

If you wanted a boot lip and roof wing you can get genuine Origin parts from Japan via Jesse Streeter. Not cheap but good quality. Here's how mine look:

Those are castor rods (or radius rods) rather than camber arms. I can see a couple of potential issues with these: In your original castor rod the crush tube is centred, however in the Cusco item one side is longer than the other. I doubt you can just cut it shorter and get it perfect. The control arm studs look completely different, looks like with the Cuscos you might run out of thread for your bolts? Another thing to check is the crush tube inner diameter, sometimes they vary Rather than hacking into the Cuscos I would sell em and buy the correct part for your car, especially since I have some SRI ones for sale http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444714-fs-r34-gtt-automatic-gearbox-and-parts-mbc-fuel-pump-tension-rods-manual-parts-mel/ I've just measured them and the crush tube length is 70mm, inner diameter 14mm, bolt distance 35mm. Asking $50.

Yeah it's registered, with a second set of wheels and semis for the track. These settings are a reasonable compromise between street and track, and tyre wear seems pretty even. For track only I'd probably run around -3 front and -1 rear camber but that would be tough on the street tyres.

Cheers Ben! I've just posted a write up of the installation here in case anyone's looking for some tips: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462142-R34-Gtt-Oil-Cooler-Installation

Hi all, here's a writeup on the recent oil cooler kit installation on my R34 GTT. References I would recommend the following threads and pages as a reference before an installation: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79130-r33-oil-cooler-installation/page-6 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462034-oil-cooler-orientation-trans-engine-steering-etc/ http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461812-oil-cooler-recommendations-for-r34-gtt/?p=7658099 http://www.trak-life.com/diy-r33-skyline-oil-cooler-with-thermostat/ http://er34.blogspot.com.au/2007/03/trustgreddy-oil-cooler-kit-installed.html http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/56507-aftermarket-oil-cooler-location-poll.html These might also help: Taking Off Gtt R34 Front Bumper With Pictures: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/248385-taking-off-gtt-r34-front-bumper/ Installing Return Flow Fmic on R34 GTT: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/288799-installing-return-flow-fmic/ R34 Gtt Front Mount Intercooler Installation: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348655-r34-gtt-front-mount-intercooler-installation/ Choosing the oil cooler kit Here's what I wanted from the kit: Full kit with a decent size core Good quality lines and fittings (JIC or similar) With thermostat as the car is both street and track Sandwich plate with spots for oil temp and pressure sensor too Prefer oil filter in original location if possible Prefer not having to bleed cooler separately when changing oil I ended up buying a Driftworks oil cooler kit off another member: http://www.driftworks.com/thermostatic-oil-cooler-kit-for-all-engines.html The kit comes with: Mocal 19 row oil cooler Mocal 92 degree thermostatic sandwich plate Braided oil cooler hoses Thermostatic sandwich plate fittings Oil filter adapter/fitting The Mocal sandwich plate doesn't have sensor fittings so I will need to use separate fittings for those. I am also planning on removing the original sensor sandwich plate I ran for my Defis, although some people do run two plates stacked: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402155-using-two-oil-sandwich-plates/ Installing the core and hoses The installation is relatively straightforward, just fiddly because there's not a whole lot of space to play with as the photos below illustrate. Have a good look around the front of the car to find and measure potential installation locations before pulling out the front bar. Generally the options are: Between radiator and intercooler seems the most common (if you don't have a FMIC you probably shouldn't worry about an oil cooler just yet...) Driver side guard Passenger side guard Some have even installed the cooler under the car, which may not be ideal for ground clearance, or airflow unless you add a shroud. Also consider any other coolers you may want to put in later; I installed a power steering cooler at the same time (in the driver side guard). Here are the general steps for installing between rad and IC: Remove engine undertray Remove guard liners Remove front bar Remove front bar support bar above the reo bar Remove reo bar Remove intercooler. I have a Trust turnflow and I ended up just loosening the clamps and moving it out a little sitting on a box because I was too slack to remove the airbox and piping.. Mock up oil cooler position! Use duct tape or whatever you need and double check the following: Sufficient clearance in every direction, also once the IC is back in place Can you connect up the oil cooler hoses? Braided hose doesn't like to do tight bends, luckily mine came with 90 degree fittings. Can you run the cooler hoses neatly into the engine bay? These commonly run under the chassis rail and above the subframe near the tow point. Do the cooler hoses reach their destination? Depending on your sandwich plate you may need some additional 45 or 90 degree Where do the horns go? I had to move one to the other side of the bonnet latch. Does the bonnet close fully? Again mine didn't at first so needed to move the horn again.. Depending on the size of the core, you can modify an auto trans cooler bracket or fabricate a new one. I cut the top part off the existing bracket and made small L brackets to securely connect the bottom part to the oil cooler core. Make a C bracket for the top of the oil cooler core and secure it to the radiator support part of the chassis. You may want to add a second vertical bracket too, depending on how well the bottom of the core is mounted. Before finalising the hose runs and tightening the hoses, put the following items back in place: Intercooler, remember to re-tighen the clamps Reo bar Front bar support bar Test fit the front bar. Does it crimp the hoses? Does anything scuff? I had to trim back the front bar vent/box near the fog light for more clearance between the front bar and the chassis rail for the oil cooler hose. Remove front bar again Make a support clip for the oil cooler hoses. I used two basic 25mm hose clips from Bunnings, padded P clips would be better. Test fit the guard liner. I had a to trim back a fair bit of plastic around the cooler hoses to get it back into place. Tighen and secure the oil cooler hoses. Think of the braided hose as sandpaper, and check for any areas where the hose may scuff the chassis or other parts. I cut off a length of clear hose and split it down the side, then secured it onto the cooler hose near the headlight and chassis rail to prevent scuffing. Once you're happy with the oil cooler placement, hose runs and clearances put the front end back together and tighten everything back up: Reo bar Front bar support bar Front bar Guard liners You may want to leave the undertray off until you've hooked up the cooler and tested everything For adjusting cooler hose lengths, turning over the engine to fill the cooler and other great tips, check out the excellent Trak-Life oil cooler writeup here: http://www.trak-life.com/diy-r33-skyline-oil-cooler-with-thermostat/ I've left hooking up the oily end with my workshop, I'll add here once I have the car back. Photos Mocal sandwich plate and core: R34 GTT auto trans cooler bracket: R34 GTT auto trans cooler bracket cut to suit the Mocal core: Oil cooler core mounted between radiator and intercooler: Oil cooler hoses test run: Oil cooler hose bracket: Scuff guards made out of transparent plastic hose: Oil cooler mounted: Guard liner trimmed: Oil cooler hoses in engine bay, these need to be secured properly once the sandwich plate is in place:

I'm still not a 100% sure but found this here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79130-r33-oil-cooler-installation/page-1 There's mixed information out there on whether the oil should flow top-to-bottom or bottom-to-top in the core. One argument for the former is easier flow with gravity, and for the latter avoiding air bubbles from forming at the top of the core. I think this diagram is from the Trust/Greddy kit: This is the way I'm planning on hooking it up, flow from bottom to top.

I just installed on my R34 between the rad and IC. Useful threads and pages: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79130-r33-oil-cooler-installation/page-6 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462034-oil-cooler-orientation-trans-engine-steering-etc/ http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461812-oil-cooler-recommendations-for-r34-gtt/?p=7658099 http://www.trak-life.com/diy-r33-skyline-oil-cooler-with-thermostat/ http://er34.blogspot.com.au/2007/03/trustgreddy-oil-cooler-kit-installed.html

Awesome wheels mate, great colour too! Re alignment, I'm currently these settings with stock wheels and 20mm spacers all around: FRONT L R Castor 6.48 6.56 Camber -2.05 -2.10 Toe In 0 0 REAR L R Camber -0.45 -0.45 Toe In +1mm +1mm Car felt great at Sandown last month, I might see you there on the 30th if I get my rack reco sorted on time..

+1 for Brakes Direct/GSL. Ordered new Remsa fronts for $85 w/ free delivery on Tuesday night, received them on Thursday. Awesome. Also as Trex and some others have pointed out they're currently supplying Roadhouse instead of Remsa. It's still the same pad, compound and part numbers.

Found this on gtr.co.uk: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/56507-aftermarket-oil-cooler-location-poll.html Looks like there is a pretty even mix of install locations for oil coolers. On the R34 the washer bottle takes up a fair bit of spare in the RH guard and if you have a return flow cooler the piping will be in the LH guard, so those can limit your options.

Yep just get a 100 cell Venom with 5" body and 3" inlet and outlet and you'll be fine

Haha maybe - I got a bit carried away with the PS cooling after reading this: http://www.trak-life.com/diy-power-steering-oil-cooler/ Re previous auto trans cooler (Davies Craig), it's been disconnected since the manual conversion. I just modified the original auto trans cooler bracket and used the same space for the new oil cooler for a sturdy mount. From a heat perspective you're right, it would have made more sense running the oil cooler in the guard. However the oil cooler is significantly bigger than the original auto trans core so would have been a tight squeeze. The braided hoses are difficult too because you can't do small radius turns, probably would have needed to have inlet and outlet facing down which is not ideal. Anyway here's the Trak-Life inspiration for the oil cooler install: http://www.trak-life.com/diy-r33-skyline-oil-cooler-with-thermostat/ This borrowed pic gives a idea of the core size: