V28VX37

Just a quick update on these, they had their second outing at Sandown on a 37 degree day on Sunday. Really happy with the hot bite and lack of fade (though had to do a lot of cool down laps because of oil temps so brakes got a rest too). There's about 4-5mm left on the fronts after maybe 10000kms and two track days on a full weight GTT sedan. Besides the crazy dust the only other thing I'd note is the somewhat vague feel when cold. Still, recommended, especially at this price point.

Hi all, I am looking for some recommendations for a good oil cooler kit for an R34 GTT with RB25DET Neo. Probably something similar to the Trust/Greddy kit shown here: http://er34.blogspot.com.au/2007/03/trustgreddy-oil-cooler-kit-installed.html Here's what I think I need: Full kit with a decent size core Good quality lines and fittings (JIC or similar) With thermostat as the car is both street and track Sandwich plate with spots for oil temp and pressure sensor too Prefer oil filter in original location if possible Prefer not having to bleed cooler separately when changing oil I was originally thinking of maybe reusing my Davies Craig 678 trans cooler (it's a big 4WD unit) as an oil cooler now that the auto box is gone, however I'm not sure about the clamped fittings...?

Long shot Greg but you wouldn't have a sedan steering rack (non-leaky) by any chance?

Any recommendations on what to get? Would prefer something RB25DET Neo plug and play with a sandwich plate (with oil temp/pressure sensor spots) and good quality fittings.

Bump

^^^ This. Guys get your oil coolers sorted before Jan 30th, good chance it's gonna be hot. I had to do two cool down laps after pretty much every proper lap today to keep oil temps in check. Brakes were good (DBA T3 + Remsa pads + Dixcel 273C fluid) and the tyres (fresh R888R's) were great btw.

Am I right in assuming that you're already running coilovers and have dropped the rear substantially? My R34 sedan was sky high with stock suspension, the rear still feels a touch high with stock body kit but it's a lot more tolerable with a 35mm drop

...then again, I was doing some more research and found all these: 2006: http://www.scoobynet.com/wheels-tyres-and-brakes-13/518065-goodyear-eagle-f1-gsd3s.html 2010: http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=347325 2011: http://www.carforums.co.za/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=31314 2011: http://www.vwgticlub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10027 2015: http://vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=116811 Each has photos of various Goodyear F1's cracked in a very similar fashion to mine. I just can't believe I would have two faulty sets in a row. Design flaw? Thoughts?

Thread revival – I was just under the car then and I think I can see a couple of cracks appearing again on the inner sidewall of the front left tyre. WTH?! They are small and only visible in the bottom part where the tyre is bulging under the weight of the car. However if the previous set is anything to go by, there will be more cracks soon These tyres have been religiously run at 38 PSI for about 15 months and just 12,000 kms, and rotated a couple of times. Not daily driven and only occasional spirited driving. They are 3213 manufacture and made in Germany. I don't get it. Could it be something mechanical after all?

Cheers. I was trying to get the cooler sorted this week but ran out of time, aiming for early Jan hopefully. Fingers crossed I don't cook it on Sunday.

Bump

Remsa are quiet and good performance but very dusty.

Ok a bit off topic but might be relevant to the January track day too ... I'm heading to Sandown this coming Sunday and the current forecast is 35, ouch. Any specific prep I should look at doing for such a hot day? I've got Defis for oil and water temps so will be watching those closely. Does anyone know how R888's go in the hot (standard GG compound)?

The OEM ER34 front/dump is a two part jobbie. I'm pretty sure yours is the OEM part, it's just lost its heat shields somewhere. Mine looked like this: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439329-garage-sale-r34-gtt-r33-gts-parts-melb-vic/

Do you mean a child seat anchor points? I don't think so, on my R34 GTT sedan there are aftermarket points that were put in as part of compliance. They're pretty basic though and should be easy enough to install yourself if you're keen.

For heavy cars (1400kg+) Toyo recommend 27-35psi cold for the R888 here: http://www.toyo.co.uk/page/index/identifier/set-up-advice I'm definitely no expert but 22psi does sound pretty low on a GT-R.

Can anyone confirm if the front kit would clear OEM R34 GTT 17x7.5" wheels (+35 I think)?

I did a quick run up and down the freeway on the R888R's over the weekend. Not much to report except that they were quieter than I expected, only started getting a little noisy around the 100km/h mark, a mild jet-like whine but not bad. Anyway traffic's not the place for a proper run in so I'll save that for the track day on the 20th

Ok so I bought a 60mm Defi exhaust temp gauge (with sensor) and oil pressure gauge with no other bits. I'm now looking for the following Defi accessories to make them run: Defi Pressure Sensor PDF00703S - for oil pressure Defi Pressure Sensor Harness 3m PDF05604H (this is the cable from the sensor to the control unit) Defi Exhaust Temperature Sensor Harness 2.5m PDF01104H (as above) 2x Defi Meter Cup 60mm PDF00605G 2x Defi Meter Cup Holder Base PDF00606G Defi Meter Wire 1m PDF00615H (to run between two gauges) Defi Meter Wire 25cm PDF00604H (as above) Let me know what you have and the asking price, Melbourne pick up or posted. I already have the Defi controller to hook the gauges up to. Cheers guys

Sold please close

Got some asking $50, see here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444714-fs-r34-gtt-automatic-gearbox-and-parts-mbc-fuel-pump-tension-rods-manual-parts-mel/ I did have some challenges fitting these originally so you might need to measure your bolts beforehand: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409304-installing-front-camber-arms-and-radius-rods-r34/

What's 'not overly low' more specifically? If you drop the car from standard heights to anything more decent it's probably lowered an inch or more, and you might want to change the traction arms too. eBay arms are <$100, you'll spend more than that in one proper alignment. You can definitely run without, I did for years. Putting in adjustable traction arms did help with bump steer a little, however the main culprit turned out to be a busted shock on one side.

I've seen pics of setups with standard core and custom return flow piping. You are likely to have ground clearance issues if you run the return pipe under the cooler. The craziest setups are the ones where you punch a hole into the battery tray and run a cross flow cooler with return piping that snakes back over the engine to the standard plenum. That doesn't make any sense to me whatsoever. To be honest I don't think the cooler type is necessarily the issue though, it's more the core volume and quality. To know for sure you'd need to do back to back runs comparing different coolers and keeping all other factors unchanged, exactly what Stao has done.

Gunmetal Aventador with orange accents, aftermarket exhaust and six figure number plates on Moreland Road, sounded mental

Made 285rwkw on BP98 without airbox lid on my car so I'm pretty sure it'll crack 300 with E85. I think there's a power level where return flow coolers become restrictive and it's better to go FFP and a GTR style cooler - I'm just not sure what that level is