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V28VX37

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Everything posted by V28VX37

  1. V28VX37
    These are rare as hen's teeth. I've ordered a pair from Japan, hopefully getting them soon... ... Hey here's one for the interior specialists. For the shoulder straps I've mounted the Sparco harness eye bolts at the rear seatbelt mounts. The left hand side can be accessed (just) via the seat belt slot/cutout in the seat, however the right one can't. I'm not too keen to have to pull out the rear seat bottom part every time when wanting to use the harness so I'm planning on cutting a small hole through the seat foam, see pic below. Any thoughts on how to tie down the upholstery around the new hole to avoid it tearing??
  2. V28VX37
    Cheers for awesome info, I am considering this tyre in 17" for my R34 GTT sedan. Hey if it's not too much trouble could you please measure the actual tyre width when mounted (somewhere off the ground)? I am trying to gauge how close to the specced 235mm they actually are (my current Eagle F1's are 235's and measure 231mm). Thanks heaps!
  3. V28VX37
    I am chasing an R34 GTT sedan front (left) passenger door lock actuator in good working condition, mine's getting tired. Control rods optional. Please let me know what you have by PM. Like this but the opposite side:
  4. V28VX37
    That sucks, sounds very similar to my issue. I haven't made much progress but have found some actuators at http://www.brisbanemotorimports.com.au/nissan/vehicle-electrics/door-lock-actuator/ Looks like they have all other actuators in stock except for the front passenger, grr. I am pretty sure you could get one from Nissan for like >$200...
  5. V28VX37
    My recommended order would be: Driving skills Tyres Brakes Suspension Power I.e. the exact opposite to how most people do it In all seriousness, sounds like you've done your homework well, keep us posted on how you go. Good advice above too.
  6. V28VX37
    Totally agree, either option will add up. The good thing about (re)building a gearbox is that you'll know what's in it, doing a manual conversion you're pretty much relying on the seller's word that it's in workable condition. I got lucky. Re drivability, I ended up going with an NPC single plate organic that is very easy to drive on the street and has held up well @ 275rwkw.
  7. V28VX37
    Hey Mat I just saw a photo of your re-incarnated 34 in the R34s...please thread, looks awesome! Sorry to jump in but a quick question about the undertray, have you got a photo from underneath with the full front end in place? Are you running an undertray/diffuser out the back at all? I'm keen to DIY a flatter undertray for my GTT at some stage and looking for some pointers
  8. V28VX37
    Any suggestions? Does anyone know if the coupe and sedan actuators are interchangeable?
  9. V28VX37
    Thanks guys, very positive feedback on the Z222/RS-3 everywhere I look, it sounds like a more consistent tyre than the 595RS-R on track. Also good for the street. I'm also sussing out the Z221, it's probably not one for the street but from what I've gathered it's giving NT01's a run for their money..
  10. V28VX37
    Wow a lot of car for 15k! GLWS
  11. V28VX37
    I looked into this when I still had the auto in my GTT, most shops just scratch their head when you mention Tiptronic or RE4R0__ to them. GTSBoy covered your main options above. MV Automatics in SA is typically one of the first recommendations when you want something done to these boxes. I also found something called a Keas shift kit with references to Knox Automatics in VIC, maybe check them out. Also maybe check with Scotty NM35 and Kinkstaah here they're both running built autos. The cost adds up pretty quickly and depending on how far you want to go you may want to consider a manual conversion instead. That's what I did.
  12. V28VX37
    Five year thread bump! I just got a second set of GTT stockies for the track ... what can I say I like the wheel and they're affordable Anyway I'm again thinking on painting them, I'm still happy with the white from five years ago and it has lasted well. In terms of colour the current main options are: Black Cyan/teal Thoughts? Suggestions? Current wheels: Photoshopped cyan: Someone else's stockies in black:
  13. V28VX37
    I read the article the day it came out, great read and photos, I should've known it's a SAU car too! Awesome work Terry!
  14. V28VX37
    Hi all, My R34 GTT passenger door lock has started playing up and won't lock sometimes so I need to check it every time when parking, annoying. I just pulled the door panel off and had a lock at the mechanism, see photos below. The rod system seems fine and I WD40'd everything whilst there but it didn't really help. What I noticed is that the door locks when the actuator rod is disconnected, so the theory is that the actuator has become too weak over time to move the whole system. Any other suggestions before I go and buy a new actuator? It's a sedan too so finding one is going to be fun... What's involved in changing the actuator? I'm not quite sure how to disconnect the door handle rod, and also couldn't see any actuator wiring/plug anywhere, though it could be somewhere inside the door skin. Cheers Edit: This was a good reference on how to get the door panel off: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285604-tutorial-r34-gtt-door-panel-removal-guide/
  15. V28VX37
    Awesome thanks - how does it go on the track after a few laps?
  16. V28VX37
    ^^^ A summary of treadwear ratings based on some quick googling. Some tyres like the Z221 come in different compounds too.
  17. V28VX37
    Any experiences with these on the track in a heavy-ish car (~1.5ton)? Hankook AU lists these as 200 treadwear, Ventus TD Z221 are 80 and Ventus Z214 are 40 (looking like almost full slicks).
  18. V28VX37
    Cheers Hadouken, good to know. I looked into the NT05 last night and it's a 200 treadwear tyre in the size that I'm after, compared to 140 of the RS-RR. I know that treadwear is not everything but the RS-RR is closer to the range I was thinking. Thanks Statue great info! Interesting about the NT05, my car is RWD and definitely struggles for traction with the current Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2's from a standing start. Not really surprising given the 235 section vs. 275rwkw, however I prefer keeping a square setup for the time being so that it's easier to rotate the tyres. It's a decent tyre (300 treadwear) but not really up to track work based on my Sandown experiences earlier this year. Something that I've read elsewhere on SAU is that certain semis/street semis don't like being spun much as it causes them to overheat and get greasy. I wonder how the RS-RR behaves in this respect?
  19. V28VX37
    Ok so I'm looking for a set of sticky tyres for my R34 GTT sedan @ 275rwkw: Primarily for the track but also some occasional spirited driving (in the dry only) I'd like something that can do several hot laps without getting greasy, and with consistent behaviour at the limit I'd also like em to be able also be driven to the track and back, preferably without being completely deadly in the wet. I am planning on keeping a separate set of tyres for daily duties. I'm pretty sure what I'm after is a low treadwear UHP tyre like: Federal 595 RS-RR Kumho KU36 Hankook Ventus RS-3 Toyo R1R Any recommendations? I'm pretty sold on the 595 RS-RR but being a fairly new tyre I can't find many trackside reports, can anyone share their experiences? Other options are proper semis: Hankook Ventus TD Z221 Nitto NT01 Toyo R888 From the dozens of threads I've trawled through it sounds like these are pretty much track only due to noise, harshness and lack of grip in the wet. Does anyone ever drive these on the street or is that a dumb idea? Oh and I'd like to get the set in 235/45R17 (or 225/45R17) for under $1k so it's most likely going to be St George or Taleb off eBay. Thanks in advance!
  20. V28VX37
    All those options sound like an awful lot of work.. Can you post a photo of how the wheels sit now?
  21. V28VX37
    Awesome! You could even paint the cam covers to match
  22. V28VX37
    Yes you need fork type in the rear, also make sure the rear shock body is the right length. I got sent an R33 shock body once for my BC BR's and it was too short for my R34. Why not just get some new BC Racing ones? http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319277-bc-racing-coilovers/
  23. V28VX37
    Found some wheels thanks guys. Still after some UHP tyres or R comps at 235/45R17 with decent meat left if you have some near Melbourne.
  24. V28VX37
    Ok I'm having trouble finding high tensile harness eye bolts in M10, any suggestions? I only need two to replace the two seat rail rear bolts with. I realise that this is not going to be an FIA spec solution but I'm not keen on drilling holes through the chassis and installing M11 mounting plates for a couple of track days a year...
  25. V28VX37
    Nice!! So the exact same turbo but with ext gate? Would you have a dyno sheet before and after by any chance?
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