V28VX37

I'm running an SS2 with supporting mods, 275rwkw (370hp) on BP98, it's a capable unit. Specs here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-51#entry7370873 Would love E85 but the range sucks already on PULP and flex tunes are very pricey so it's a no go...

Thanks Josh. I priced them and they're about twice the price of BC Racing, per spring, landed. Also Swift only seem to have 60 and 65mm diameter, not 62 which is what my BC's came with. Thanks guys! I'm pretty sure there's enough thread left, I was mostly concerned about the shock travel with an (occasionally) fully loaded sedan. Theory is though that with a 20% stiffer spring you'd have less travel over the same bump at the same speed than with the softer spring, right? I've been very happy with them for almost 3 years now, highly recommended. I'm only considering stiffer because: I did a track day at Sandown earlier this year and there's still a fair bit of body roll, despite the bigger swaybars I'm running I recently got a ride in a Liberty with full remote adjustable Cusco setup, chassis bracing, the lot. It was sweet. I know it's totally apples and oranges but since I don't want to shell out for oranges I might just as well try stiffer springs

Answering my own question, just checked and my front springs are P/N 62.200.006 and rears 62.220.005. In other words, the fronts are 200mm whereas the rears are 220mm. Spring diameter is the same and you might be able to get away with the 10% length difference but I'm not sure if I want to risk it... thoughts?

Interesting, where can you get those from? Also anyone in the know, can you please confirm if BC BR front and rear coils are interchangeable? I currently run 6kg front, 5kg rear and wouldn't mind experimenting with 8kg front, 6kg rear (the standard rates) - can I just swap my current front springs to the rear and buy some 8kg fronts? What's the easiest place to buy online in Aus?

Yes cold air feed still through the airbox in both cases. Full specs and dyno sheet here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/?p=7370873

I'm not sure about that, however with regards to '400 Hp And Standard Airbox?', this is possible. My GTT ran 275rwkw on the dyno with a closed standard airbox and a high flow filter and 285rwkw without airbox lid and filter. This is with a hard intake pipe from Scotty.

Probably the best hp-per-$ ratio I've ever seen in a sales ad. Great car, GLWS!

Incorrect - they are perfect for smaller kids. Plus baby seats add street cred when doing dyno runs.

PMed

Thanks for your post Dale that's a pretty nifty setup you've got there, it's good to know that DIY alignment is possible if one is keen enough! I just chucked in the adjustable traction rods, luckily I had done the Whiteline eccentric bushing kit previously so the nuts weren't crazy seized. Here's how the camber arms measure (bolt-to-bolt roughly at the middle): LH: OEM 309mm vs. adjustable currently at 314mm RH: OEM 310mm vs. adjustable currently at 314mm So there's about +5mm per side to correct for negative camber that'd otherwise creep in with this amount of drop. That's about +1.6% compared to OEM length. Here's the traction rod measurements: LH: OEM 210mm vs. new adjustable set to 212mm RH: OEM 211mm vs. new adjustable set to 213mm +1.6% on 210mm is approximate +3.4mm but I decided to play it safe and only do +2mm for now. The suspension shop can work out a better setting I'll be interesting getting the whole dynamic geometry right with three separate points of adjustment (traction rod, camber arm, HICAS eliminator arm)... Based on a quick drive the car does feel better, more stable around bumpy corners. Good stuff.

Thanks guys, I'll measure the OEM camber arm and compare the current adjustable camber arm setting to that to give me a better guess

Quick question, when I put the rear traction arms in should I adjust them longer or shorter than OEM for reduced bump steer? Here's what I found in an S13 Suspension FAQ: So is (slightly) longer than OEM the go? Obviously I'll stilll need to get a proper alignment asap.

^^^What he said. Also for reference, I had a previously Nistuned Auto ECU on my R34 and no problems after a manual conversion.

I've got an R33 Series 2 fuse box to gearbox wiring loom if that helps?

Spotted a black Audi A4 convertible in Preston yesterday with a Turbo badge off a 911 and a GT-R badge off a Skyline on the boot. Must've been quick.

#firstworldproblems ?

Thanks Josh, great tips! Beers and bbq sounds like the go

Thread revival, about to do this on my R34, old rack's been leaking for ages. I've got an OEM replacement with around 80,000 kms on it. I'm assuming the above instructions will be pretty much the same for an R34, can someone please confirm? Can this be done on jack stands i.e. without a hoist? Also is there anything else I should look at doing whilst the rack is out? What's the best way to check the condition of tie rod ends inner/outer? I've got new rack bushes to go in with it. Thanks guys!

Really digging the look, colour and stance Adam, great work! Long time reader of your blog too

Thanks Dale this is fantastic! Your description is exactly what it does over bumps, a very unnerving feel. The rear is dropped quite a lot from stock so that's probably why it's so pronounced. I'm kicking myself for not getting the traction arms together with the camber ones, they're the only non-adjustable arms left in the whole setup (LCA's notwithstanding). Oh well live and lean. I've just ordered a pair, will chuck them in and get a full alignment & report back, fingers crossed.

I'm pretty sure it's the same as the coupe i.e. access from the top. I had the workshop supply & fit mine in the 4door and from memory there wasn't much labour cost in it.

Thread revival, the 'skittish' rear end issue on my R34 is back I was just driving on M1 towards the city near Richmond/Cremorne, you know the long sweeping bend with a gazillion expansion joints, and it a feels like the rear wants to step out when you hit a joint, at its worst it's like a like a little sideways jolt. This is at a steady 80 km/h staying on the lane. The whole car feel nervous and it's really not a nice feel. The alignment settings should be pretty close to the TruTrack settings above, however I am thinking of taking it back in for a check up, it's been a while. Any suggestions on what to check or try? Is one of my swaybars too stiff? Something loose somewhere (I have checked but...)? Here's the full suspension spec for reference: BC Racing BR Type coilovers: 6 kg front, 5 kg rear spring rates - front drop 25mm, rear 30mm ARC swaybars: front 28mm hollow, rear 25mm hollow adjustable (at middle setting) Hardrace adjustable front radius rods (rubbed bushed) KKR adjustable front camber arms (blue) NeoTech adjustable rear camber arms (silver) Total HICAS eliminator kit (a full conversion to non-HICAS rear, not just a lock bar) The Goodyear tyres have seen normal road use and one track day, a bit worn on the shoulders but plenty of tread left on them...

PM sent about steering rack

Check your CAS, I had that problem: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326043-resolved-misfire-in-r34-gtt-rb25det-neo/

Here's a thread of my adventures with HICAS delete with some tips on getting the darned rods off: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448795-replacing-r34-diff-bushes-whats-involved/ Having some proper tools like a Pitman Puller Arm will help. Good luck.