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V28VX37

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Everything posted by V28VX37

  1. V28VX37
    There's been a few R34 GTT sedans for sale for not much over the 5k mark over the past year, you can fit a couple of baby seats in the back easy. They're all auto though and I'd really check things out thoroughly at that price. Good luck
  2. V28VX37
    Daymm that was quick. 2nd dibs if sale falls through.
  3. V28VX37
    My NPC Organic 10" is a rebadged Exedy unit (or vice versa), even the part numbers match. So my assumption is that a new Exedy would be just as good as a new NPC with these specs
  4. V28VX37
    Thanks heaps for this Ben. I had all positives connected directly to ignition so a bit of a mess. I've run a new 12V line off the fuse box with a 5A fuse and illumination from the cigarette lighter so it's all up to scratch now. The dials now rest at 6 o'clock as expected when the car is not running, and illumination is in sync with the rest of the dash. Had a look through the manual and looks like there's no brightness setting for these, must be a just tired bulb in the boost gauge. Thanks GTSBoy too for the temp alert recommendations.
  5. V28VX37
    Ok it's all wired up now! Couple of questions/niggles: The illumination is always on, irrespective of headlights/parkers. Which wire from the ignition should I connect it to instead? When shutting the car down the Defis lose power immediately when turning the key back, leaving the dials pointing to wherever they were at that time. Is this normal, or are they meant go back down to 0 when off? One of the gauges is darker than the other two, is there a brightness setting somewhere? The oil and water temps are around 80 in normal driving, what's a decent max/alert setting for these? Thanks heaps guys, and sorry about the noob q's.
  6. V28VX37
    Slow progress is slow. I finally got the gauges in, still need to do sensors and wiring. My car originally came with the pop-up screen so thanks to Charles89 for the gauge pod, it came up well!!
  7. V28VX37
    +1 for BC BR's, good option at a reasonable price. You might want to consider a lower spring rate if it's a street car only.
  8. V28VX37
    Thanks mate I'll give Tyrepower a go!
  9. V28VX37
    Semi related, anyone know a good affordable wheel alignment shop in inner Melbourne? Like <$150 but who still know their way around adjustable arms etc.? I know I know good and cheap are mutually exclusive but worth a shot
  10. V28VX37
    I was being an idiot earlier today and took the little screw out, which stuffed the mirror mount. So I've just tried this. The plastic was still really hard after 3 minutes of baking, tried the screwdriver trick, bent too much and broke the glass. Grrr at myself
  11. V28VX37
    Maybe check with member 'Guula' if he's still around, he's got a regoed R34 GTT in Finland, they might measure noise in the mandatory annual vehicle testing over there? Here's his thread: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438360-r34-gtt-r-from-finland/
  12. V28VX37
    'Say HELLO To my LIL Friend!'
  13. V28VX37
    Well the back story is that I spun out twice on a recent Sandown track day, both times at turn 1 after overcooking the entry. Essentially: 200 km/h down the front straight > insufficient braking > start turning regardless > end up arse first in the litter halfway through the corner, on the right hand side. So a spinout with no power applied. It's 99% my s__t driving but it did make me wonder if I could have a bit more of a 'safety net' by adjusting the sways..? The things I could look at improving next are 1. my driving, 2. semi slicks and 3. a proper mechanical diff. And I reckon spending on 2 and 3 is just trying to buy myself out of 1
  14. V28VX37
    Interesting point, the way I read Skelton's list is that you could either 'stiffen front sway bar' or 'soften rear sway bar' to correct oversteer? Either way I only have adjustable rear bar so will try that first.
  15. V28VX37
    Thanks guys, so most votes are to move links towards the end of the bar I just watched the Whiteline video below, here's what it says Longer lever = softer, similar to a smaller diameter bar Shorter lever = stiffer, similar to a larger diameter bar Tim Skelton's lists the following for oversteer corrections: 'Soften rear sway bar.' http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/race_prep/suspension/corrections.htm So yeah, last hole in the bar it is. Whiteline adjustable sway bars explained: Watch from 1m30: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ISNWRMB6c4#t=1m30
  16. V28VX37
    I'm running a Trust vertical flow intercooler in my R34 GTT with ATR43SS2 (mid 2013) from Stao, currently making 275rwkw at ~20psi on 98 with a manual box. Full specs and dyno sheet here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/?p=7370873 I haven't measured pressure drop across the core, it would be interesting to see.
  17. V28VX37
    Hi all, I'm sure this is answered somewhere on SAU but couldn't find it on quick search... I've got aftermarket ARC swaybars on my R34 and the rear bar is adjustable, with three settings. Right now I've got it in the middle setting and would like a bit less oversteer to help avoid the rear stepping out. Which direction do I go with the swaybar links, towards the end of the bar (rear of car) or the middle of the bar (front of car)? Thanks guys!
  18. V28VX37
    Same here, been running NPC 10"-HD organic with a manual conversion for about a year at 275rwkw, holding up well, including 40 laps of Sandown on a track day. +1 for good service, too.
  19. V28VX37
    No build thread at present but here's the spec list and dyno sheet: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/?p=7370873
  20. V28VX37
    Hmm, I was after 45, might keep looking
  21. V28VX37
    Second dibs if that falls through, happy to pick up. Will pm
  22. V28VX37
    Yes slip ons are bad for all the reasons mentioned above. Go get some slightly wider hub centric ones and you'll be cool, I reckon they start at around 15mm.
  23. V28VX37
    It's stock, a built one would go for quite a bit more I'd imagine
  24. V28VX37
    Hey mate, no I didn't so went with a manual conversion instead. Which means that my auto box is for sale cheap if you're keen, in Vic: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444714-fs-r34-gtt-automatic-gearbox-and-parts-mbc-fuel-pump-tension-rods-manual-parts-mel/
  25. V28VX37
    Same here, my low mount stock mani ATR43SS2 is currently making 275rwkw on 98, full boost at just over 4000rpm. Certainly a lot less responsive than my stock OP6 @ 200rwkw.
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