V28VX37

Matte black for real (not a wrap), apparently a special order colour

Yeah man, indeed! One of the very few examples in the country, brand new, special paint ...

Thanks heaps, that would be awesome! Hey I think your inbox is full, can't PM, will try again tomorrow.

Thanks Nick, likewise! Yes indeed it was a fantastic day, great fun! I have no skill but at least there was an improvement between the morning and the afternoon I overcooked turn 1, it can be pretty scary at those speeds. Also Harry's LapTimer was excellent in having a rough gauge on how things were going. Best part though was when I jokingly asked the owner of this insane car if he does passenger rides and he said yes - what a legend!

Yep I'm in! I gave the R34 a basic service over the long weekend with fresh fully synthetic, oil filter, re-gapped spark plugs, air filter, AFM clean and new windshield wipers, hopefully all ready to go. Last time I was at Sandown was in the Monaro years ago, I'm very interested to see how the current 275 rwkw forced induction compares to 293 rwkw N/A back then Ps. That's a very drool-worthy list of cars you've got there Nick

^^^ What they said. It's a buyers market (isn't it always so for cars) so you may have to wait a while for the right one to come along. Also good photos make all the difference, take stacks: exterior in good lighting, doors/windows open/closed, door jambs, all seats, dash, steering wheel, roof lining, engine bay, underbody, chassis rails, tyres, exhaust etc. I'd be looking at all these things if I was buying

A couple of more recent shots of mine, cross posted from the R34s...please thread:

Looking for gear stick surround with gaiter, posted to Vic?

OP's profile says Lilydale and photos have Vic plates

Yeah well the misfire is back, has been for a while, mostly on idle. The car hiccups when sitting at the lights. High RPM is better (although not perfect) so I don't think it's CAS related. Is it even possible to make an RB25 run smoothly without misfire?? I mean 100%, not 99% or 95%? This is silly, I never ever had misfire issues in my modded LS1... I am starting to wonder whether I need new coil packs, again. As far as I can tell the options are: OEM. I have had 3 second hand OEM sets, never worked 100%. New ones are pricey. Not keen. Aftermarket. Currently running Yellow Jackets that were bought new. I can't imagine there being much difference between brands around the $500 mark? Top shelf aftermarket. Something like the Ignition Projects ones: http://ignitionprojects.com/catalog/ip-coil/nissan/skyline-nissan-ip-coil - Is anyone running these? Dino reported good results with I-P on Speedhunters - http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/10/a-spark-of-efficiency-project-gtr/ . Hellishly expensive though. LS1/LS2 coils conversion. Something like this: http://www.mojoperf.com/drupal/node/21 - unfortunately not available for the NEO. I'm starting to lean towards the LS coils, kind of over the RB ones... Any recommendations?? Or maybe it's not the coils, who knows with these things

A full respray is so much more than 1k that it'd take years of insurance hikes to make up the difference. Also if they start playing funny after the claim just change insurers. I hate this kinda of crap, all the headaches of having to get something repaired that is in no way or form your fault Having to pay for it adds only insult to injury..

Interesting, what did you have prior and what are you running now, out of curiosity?

I'm running Goodyear Eagle Asymmetric 2 in 17" and they are really quite good in both dry and wet. Paid about $900 new for a set online. Always check the date of manufacture before buying though.

That's exactly how it came with the OEM Sumitomo calipers, I haven't even cleaned them The only difference is that the calipers sit a bit deeper inside the rim due to spacers. Gold on black would look good I reckon!

A couple of more recent shots of mine, very similar aesthetic to Daniel's coupe:

Talk to Scotty nm35 here about the intake pipe, he'll fabricate you a good one in no time. I'm pretty sure he can sort out your injectors too. Also I'm running Hypergear ATR43SS2 from Stao, great product and support, recommended. Currently making 275rwkw on 98, dyno sheet and supporting mods here. Nice looking car btw! EDIT: If you're happy with around 270rwkw on PULP/300rwkw on E85 you could also consider getting your original OP6 turbo high flowed by Stao. Then it's all plug and play to existing piping etc. which will save you several $$ in workshop labour (unless fitting yourself of course).

Yeah KR4 with white stockies, looks great! Mine's very similar but 4dr

I've got the front half in Melbourne if you're willing to mix and match. I reused the rear half for my manual convo.

Just normal driving so far, the Remsa pads have a touch more bite and are a bit dustier than the Intimas I had before but other than that there's no massive difference to be honest. I need to take the car out for a proper drive to see how they hold up in repeat heavy use. You're right there are two shims, the inner ones (pictured) are full size and the outer ones are half size (diagonally cut). The photos above are of the inner shims only.

Ok, different clutch then. Also AFAIK the NPC 7333HD is a rebranded Exedy NSK-7333HD, same product. Both are pull type for the R34 box.

Interesting, some of the 'slack' in my driveline was remedied by changing the diff bushes but it's still often noticeable on gear change. I've got an NPC 10" HD organic (p/n NPC7333HD-10") with an R34 GTT gearbox. Which clutch are you running?

Whoa! Ok so the Skyline's sitting at around $1.25/km and the Monaro was $1.90/km, all inclusive. It doesn't sound that bad until you consider that at $2/km: Melbourne to airport return costs $100 (50km) Melbourne to Geelong return costs $300 (150km) Melbourne to Sydney one way is $1,760 (880km) Oh well, cars. But ouch.

Got this patched up at a local shop for a reasonable price. Moral of the story - don't get a backyard guard rolling job as fixing it up will cost you more than rolling it in the first place...

FWIW here's my adventures in replacing diff bushes on an R34 sedan: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448795-replacing-r34-diff-bushes-whats-involved/ On an R34 this can be done on the car without any cutting if you have the right tools (massive C clamp and right size drifts). You also have to lower the subframe but no need to remote it. For the diff rear side bushing, I tried both SPF (steel sleeved i.e. similar to OEM) and Nolathane (2 part poly bush). The SPF was specced for this car but way out in size, significantly larger in diameter, so ended up buying the Nolathane instead. I've use SPF in several applications before and this is the first time it wouldn't fit, disappointing. Just my $0.02

This thread is awesome. Nice block too.