V28VX37

I've got one if you're in Melbourne, photos here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444714-fs-r34-gtt-automatic-gearbox-and-parts-mbc-fuel-pump-tension-rods-manual-parts-mel/ Negotiable.

I've got ARC swaybars front (fixed) and rear (adjustable) on my R34, they are rare and work a treat. Definitely a quality product. But 54k yen is like $535 + shipping would be a fair chunk too, ouch

Which state? I'm pretty sure in Vic if the car came with 4WS it needs to be retained for roadworthy..

Thanks for the clarification, that should work then.

That looks a bit odd, it's basically replacing a ball joint with just a pivot? Is that going to work properly when the suspension compresses and expands, with all the associated toe changes etc.? Am I missing something? I installed one of these HICAS Eliminator kits instead of just a lock bar: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Total-HICAS-Eliminator-Kit-for-Nissan-Silvia-S13-S14-S15-Skyline-R32-R33-R34-/161489904354? It also replaces the outer end with a bush but there is a rose joint at the inner end, effectively replacing the ball joint but at the opposite end. From what I understand this is a similar setup to OEM non-HICAS rear end.

That's awesome, well done!! What kind of price are you looking at for that size print?

Scotty it made 285 rwkw so 10 rwkw more with snorkel, lid and filter removed (blue line) on back to back runs: But perhaps the filter affects that too, I should look into that. Well this is starting to sound interesting! I've been running Nistune for almost 4 years, if that be made to support flex fuel I'd be very keen.

Same boost as you mate, 20psi. Dyno sheet and full specs here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/?p=7370873 Yeah my original thinking was exactly as per what you say above, wanted to aim a bit higher than what I thought was possible with a highflow at the time. That said, my original aim was 300rwkw on 98, didn't quite get there. All the supporting mods are in place, the airbox/snorkel is holding it back 10rwkw and the only other potential restriction I can think of is the intercooler. E85 is not an option as I want the range and freedom to drive wherever I want. From what I've seen SS2 really likes external gate but that's a bit tough trying keep things looking stockish ... which kind of brings me back to the point of a highflow probably having been the better choice for my circumstances

Great result! Makes me a bit of a sad panda though, I'm running 275rwkw with an ATR43SS2 but it looks like the highflow route would probably have been better from a response/install/fitment/piping/cost point of view ... Those highflows are pretty damn good.

Great looking car, GLWS

Just like most everything that is worth doing...

BC Racing coilovers are an affordable and proven entry level setup. No point in lowering the springs only, your stock shocks will not last. My rear shocks started leaking in just a few months with King Springs. Also keep in mind that if you do any significant lowering (over about an inch or so) you'll need to start putting in adjustable arms to get enough adjustment in order to correct the suspension geometry. These things tend to escalate... Alternatively you can just run big neg camber and ignore the handling/tyre wear issues like every other lowered car on the road

I'm guessing that's 280kw at the engine on the Senator, not 280rwkw. 280rwkw LS1's run 12's without too much trouble. What's the mod list on the R34, which gearbox and what kind of power level?

I'd like to see a build from a stockish car to a reliable 300rwkw for just $2-3k...

Yep definitely talk to Stao @ Hypergear.

20mm hub centric all around, no problems in ~2 years. Use some locktite on the inner nuts so they won't come loose.

As per above, R34 has more tuning potential but is the older platform. Neither car is very ballsy in stock form. I don't think you can really go wrong though. The one thing I would suggest is set a budget, keep saving a bit longer, and then buy someone else's build. You'll miss half the fun but it will also be half the cost of building it yourself.

Just in case anyone else is looking to do this, here's the cost breakdown including delivery (late 2014): $662 - DBA T3 4000 Club Spec slotted rotors (Vic Performance Parts on eBay) $164 - Remsa pads (GSL RallySport) $178.45 - HEL braided lines (HEL on eBay) $70 - Brake master cylinder stopper (Gumtree) $17.96 - 2 x Nulon Xtreme Performance Super Dot 4 fluid (SuperCheap Auto) Total $1,092.41 plus labour to fit braided lines and change fluid (I wanted to leave that to the experts). Not too bad for brake improvement on a budget.

Followup, turns out that passenger side is perfect but they cracked the paint on driver's side, not brilliant. I guess it's just like with anything else, you get what you pay for... I applied some clear coat straight after but now couple of weeks later I'm noticing some rust coming through I'm going to try putting some more clear in there but I think that's just a temporary fix. Can anyone please recommend a paint/body shop in inner Melb who could fix this up properly? Thanks guys.

Wow Greg that is true dedication! Out curiosity, have you worked out total cost of ownership ($ per km)? I've got mine for this and the previous car and they ain't pretty...

No worries

I've got an R34 Tiptronic auto box for sale but it's in Vic, see here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/444714-fs-r34-gtt-automatic-gearbox-and-parts-mbc-fuel-pump-tension-rods-manual-parts-mel/

Good to know, I always wondered about that. I once worked out that the stock springs are like 2.7kg/mm or something so all the Jap spec stuff at 10 or 12 kg/mm seem completely over the top. I also find it interesting how small the coilover spring diameter tends to be compared to the stockies, they're tiny... Also great point about the swaybars, it seems that a lot of cheapie coilovers attempt to take on the job of the swaybar by upping the spring rate. Instead a lower spring rate + bigger swaybars is the better solution AFAIK. At least that's what I did

If you're looking for R34 GTT rears they are 297mm diameter and 18mm thickness, DBA part number 908. I've just installed these on my GTT so they're definitely this size. In the DBA catalogue R34 GT (non-turbo) is listed as the same size and part number, too.

Are you still running HICAS? If so, gave you checked your HICAS ball joints? For track use you probably want to ditch HICAS anyway so a lock bar or an eliminator kit might help. EDIT: Also you might just need more aero. Years ago at Sandown I felt the car getting really light in the rear at the top of hill near the end of the back straight at ~190 clicks, not a nice feeling...