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V28VX37

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Everything posted by V28VX37

  1. V28VX37
    I drove to work in torrential rain this morning, like most of Melbourne it seemed. I can't really point to any difference in noise/clunks/performance between dry and wet. I'm not overly convinced that the problem you're having is directly related to the diff bushes, however can't think of an alternative cause either... Hope you get it sorted.
  2. V28VX37
    Yeah I'm with TT350GT, of all the silly ways in which we modify our cars, brakes are probably the least silly Back on topic, just running in my new Remsa pads, so far so good. Good initial bite and progressive feel in moderate braking. They are quiet, and quite dusty, as I expected.
  3. V28VX37
    I had original rotors with heaps of meat, relatively fresh fluid, good new tyres and good suspension setup. The pads however were completely baked after that drive (Intima SS). The brakes faded severely during the run and I also got quite a bit of vibration that I'm guessing was from the pads having caked onto the rotors. The vibration went away later in normal driving. I'm getting the lines done today and the new setup will be complete, will report back on how it goes.
  4. V28VX37
    Thanks, that's interesting, I found some at RHDJapan: http://www.rhdjapan.com/yanack-diff-mount-rigid-collar-set-rear-nissan-s14-s15-r33-r34-c34-c35.html Based on the pics they're solid metal, a bit like these GKTech items: http://www.gktech.com/index.php/s14-s15-solid-diff-bushes.html Probably good for track/drift but not sure if I'd want to run solid bushes in a road car, experiences anyone?
  5. V28VX37
    Ended up getting this done at a shop, they used a different type of roller that had more adjustment (and seemed more sturdy in general). The technique itself is pretty simple, just make sure you keep heating it thoroughly and all the time!
  6. V28VX37
    If this is the same as on the R34 you can push the HICAS ball joint out from the front side using suitable tools, I had a go at this recently: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448795-replacing-r34-diff-bushes-whats-involved/ Here's another technique, you'll need a Pitman Arm Puller and angle grinder: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/main/view/1078972/How-to-install-Hicas-ball-joint-with-out-a-pressgtgtgt.html Good luck it's not much fun..
  7. V28VX37
    Thanks. I put them in as is, so far there's no squeal in the first 30 kms or so, during or after the bedding procedure. The main thing I was wondering is if the corroded surface will cause slightly uneven pressure on the pad but it's probably fine.
  8. V28VX37
    Rotors and pads are in, so far so good. I'll get the lines and fluid done at a shop next week so they can double check the torque of the bolts etc. I put all the shims back in exactly as they were after a good clean, they were filthy. I had baked my previous pads (Intima SS) pretty well and the inner shims were stuck on... They're still not pretty even after the clean - see below - do you reckon I should get a new set? If so, where?
  9. V28VX37
    Looks v nice but details would really help
  10. V28VX37
    Thanks GTSBoy. Sounds a bit complicated without the dial indicator. I assume that if the rotor was not within tolerance there's not much I could do about it anyway?
  11. V28VX37
    I'm just in the process of installing the rotors and saw this in the DBA instructions: Do you guys normally do this? Is there a way to do this with feeler gauges?
  12. V28VX37
    Thanks man, that's a good idea. Unfortunately it's mate's tool so can't really go modding it, I think I'll let someone else do this job..
  13. V28VX37
    Thanks MagicMike, I was more looking for tips on how to adjust the roller but that's a good alternative DIY approach
  14. V28VX37
    Yep I did that, it dropped the LCA by an inch or two but still not enough space to get the right angle for the roller. I'm surprised that you can't adjust the tool any shorter...
  15. V28VX37
    DBA catalogue part numbers are 42304 front and 908 rear for R34 GTT so these won't suit. 4963 is for R33 GTST front in the said catalogue.
  16. V28VX37
    So I thought I'd have a go at rolling the rear guards using one of those cool roller tools, didn't get very far. Basically the inner lip is pretty much horizontal at the moment and I don't seem to be able to adjust the tool short enough to get the roller at the right angle. It's sitting too sharp against the edge of the the lip, which wants to eat into the roller rather than being bent back. See photos below. User error? Any tips? Here's the best video I could find on how to use the roller: And yes I'm heating the lip & paint first.
  17. V28VX37
    I take that this is for fronts only? I'm not too hot on 'mismatched' fronts and rears due to potential brake bias issues.. Anyway back to the original plan, I've got the following kit ready to go on the car, just need to find the time: DBA T3 4000 Club Spec slotted rotors Remsa pads HEL braided lines Nulon Xtreme Performance Super Dot 4 fluid Will report back once it's all on.
  18. V28VX37
    This would go well with your stanced car:
  19. V28VX37
    No I haven't, had to google it, thanks for the tip! OP will still need more than a hammer to get the bushings out and new ones back in...
  20. V28VX37
    FWIW in my R34 the auto ECU runs fine with the manual box, even the Nistune works fine. Your mileage may vary. Cos manual = more fun?
  21. V28VX37
    A quick update: I had a look at this after some sustained spirited driving recently and indeed, Redline does climb up the breather hose all the way to the filter cup that I put in. It didn't quite touch the filter core though. So overall this setup works well, and I'm not surprised that some of you have seen smurf's blood under the car given that the factory breather end sits lower than this DIY job (and doesn't the filter of course).
  22. V28VX37
    I just removed my HICAS ball joints and put in an eliminator kit, have a look at this thread: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448795-replacing-r34-diff-bushes-whats-involved/ This can be done without removing the hubs from the car but you need the right tools. Hammer isn't one of them Any questions feel free to ask.
  23. V28VX37
    That sounds like a great price, is that with a brand new clutch? My R34 conversion where I collected all the parts myself ended up costing more than that..
  24. V28VX37
    Thanks for the tip mate, this arrived quickly and seems like a quality part. Very easy to install, here's how it looks in the engine bay: Haven't driven it in anger as yet, will report back once I do. This is about half price compared to the Cusco item and I doubt Cusco is twice as good
  25. V28VX37
    Yeah man I'll check this once the car is a bit dirtier just washed it after a couple of weeks Did you grease the bushes before putting them in? I wonder if that could cause noise. Also out of curiosity, when you did yours, did you disconnect drive shafts at all or just drop the diff a bit?
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