V28VX37

The car is back together since last night and the clunk from the diff is gone. The HICAS delete feels fine too, however it will need a proper alignment soon of course. I wasn't happy with how the diff sat with or without the supplied 7mm spacers so I ended up putting a standard 2.5mm washer in there that seems to work well. I'll post photos of the whole project at a later date. Thanks heaps for your input everyone, especially 89CAL and GTSBoy, extremely helpful!!

I replaced my R34 GTT stock cooler with a Davies Craig 678 when I was still running an auto box, see here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165605-auto-trans-cooler-upgrade/?p=7031106 Direct replacement, I didn't muck around with thermostats or anything. In terms of performance all I can say is that it occasionally threw the A/T light / lost fourth gear before the install but never after, at 200rwkw.

Good point - I haven't even raised it with the supplier as yet. From previous experience warranty claims take ages so I've gone Nolathane for the bushes for now. Brakes didn't arrive either (sad face) so I'll put it all together tomorrow, at least I will have a car that is drivable... will be nice to get some groceries after two weeks

HICAS Eliminator kit and suspension are in, just needs rear seats and exhaust back in now. Although I might get my brakes tomorrow so will leave it on the stands for a bit longer

Diff is back in with SPF bushes in front and Nolathane in the rear. I am not super impressed with the Nolathane ones either, they don't feel super tight and the diff sits a bit further back that with the OEM ones. I tried with the spacers too but it wouldn't tighten up properly. Very easy to install though obviously and at least the bolt hole is the right size unlike the SPFs... I'll let you know how if feels once I've got the rear back together, need to slap the suspension and HICAS delete in there.

Not crazy at all, a lot of people do that. However, I just found this yesterday, from Brakes Direct (GSL RallySport): The importance of machining or replacing rotors when changing pads Basically if you go from one compound to another the recommendation is to machine the discs - not really feasible for just a track day or mountain run here and there. Plus I doubt you're going to find separate 'street' and 'track' pads that would be of a similar enough compound? After much contemplation I've decided to go with Remsa, I was really tempted by A1RM but I don't want the rotor wear or noise. Plus, it really is a street car at the end of the day.

Thanks Jake that looks like what I'm after. I've contacted the seller, hoping to hear back soon.

So you reckon that's the rear side bushes of the diff? Sounds odd, especially if it's only in the wet. Is anyone else running the Nolathane/Whiteline diff bushes, how are yours going?

I only just realised now that Callan had already posted a diff bush replacement mini how-to here - thanks! The photos there are useful in case anyone else is thinking about doing this.

Will do, definitely. Hope not though

Quick update: Ordered some HEL braided lines Working out who's got the best price for the DBA T3 4000 rotors, Vic Performance Parts looks pretty good Leaning towards Remsa for pads, they sound like a nice option between QFM HPX and Q1RM, good from cold and high temp rating, though can be dusty apparently Will go with Nulon Xtreme Performance Super Dot 4 brake fluid Any ideas on where to get a brake master cylinder stopper for R34 GTT without ordering a Cusco one from Japan??

Yeah Callan I will, however I don't want to have the car off the road for yet another week whilst sorting this out so I've ordered a set of Nolathane 49162, same ones as you're running. SuperPro is an OEM style bush, the main thing I like about it is that it supports the diff in every direction. The one issue I can see with the Nolathane/Whiteline design (see below for installation diagram) is that there's no rear side support on the diff on acceleration so all the force will be on the two front bolts and bushes. However, I thought about this some more and my theory is that on acceleration the diff is 'compressed' between the drive shafts/wheels and the tail shaft, so in effect the drive shafts provide rear side support, does this sound right? Anyhow, here's some more measurements: Subframe hole inner diameter approximately 58.2mm OEM steel sleeved bush outer diameter 58.7-58.8mm SuperPro steel sleeved bush outer diameter 59.0-59.1mm I really can't be arsed trying to shoehorn the SuperPros in, especially since I don't like the 2mm slack in the bolt hole either. ^^^ Instructions for Nolathane 49162

Thanks mate. You're right, the puller arms are not adjustable, this is the one I bought off eBay: Ampro Pitman Arm Puller. The jaw opening is 1 5/16" or 33.34mm. I also came across a Kincrome one that was a touch smaller, 27mm (1.1/16"), don't get that one. There are also a number of larger three jawed pullers, not sure if they'd work and they won't fit in the space available anyway unless you pull out the drive shafts. The one trouble you're going to have still is that the ball joint sleeve collar is 35mm (see below for a pic), which means that the puller jaw will not sit properly against the arm. You've got two options: Grind a tiny bit off the collar as per this thread. First use a ball joint set like the Radum one to crack and push the bush out a bit. Once the Pitman Puller jaw fits under the collar, move onto using that. To complicate this further, the Radum set doesn't have a drift quite the right size to fit around the collar. I ended up using a ring from my auto gearbox leftover parts that fit perfectly around the collar and under a drift that would have been too big otherwise. If you're planning on installing a new ball joint you won't be able to use the Pitman Arm Puller to push it back in, you'll need a big C clamp (similar to the Radum one) and a right size drift/socket to push plus some kind of a receiver right on the opposite side as the rear of the ball joint protrudes a bit. It's a messy and time consuming job and you definitely want to have the right tools before you start. Once you start reaching for the sledgehammer and sockets you're doing it wrong I'm still glad I gave it a go, saved me pulling the hubs off the car, an even bigger job...

Wanted to buy new in Melbourne: diff support rear bushing kit (2 bushes) - diff to subframe: Nolathane 49162 or Whiteline KDT913 If you've got either of these kits and are happy to sell today 4/10 or tomorrow 5/10 (pick up) please PM me. I can get it ordered into a shop for Monday but can't be bothered waiting Thanks!! Nolathane 49162 Whiteline KDT913

GCG

I'm happy to report that the old bushes are successfully out, very very tedious but it can be done and without cutting The Radum kit worked a treat, it's got perfect size drifts for this job. I had get a separate steel plate to press against and to grind a bit off the C clamp as it would get close enough otherwise. I might post a proper write-up once the car is back together. Now, I was going start pushing the SuperPro SPF3775K ones in but I thought I'd measure them first, found some issues: The outer diameter is 0.2-0.3 mm more than the OEM ones. Given how hard it was to get the originals out I'm not confident that these will go in - nor do I want to wreck the subframe. The diff bolt hole is 17.2mm instead of the OEM's 15.1mm - this is way off! Lastly, these are almost 2mm longer than OEM.. I think I'm going to go Whiteline/Nolathane instead just to save some headache. Does anyone know a stockist in inner Melbourne that's open Saturdays??

Diff is out, prick of a job. I've dropped the rear of the subframe a bit but unfortunately it looks like there's not quite enough clearance still, might have to think of a plan B. And if that doesn't work I'll just have to cut the old diff rear bushes out..

Here's a repost of the original photo of the R34 GTT sedan stock exhaust for your reference:

I was referring to the four corners of the subframe i.e. dropping it just a little bit for better access to the upper (rear side) diff bushes. I've got a big C clamp and some big drifts so I'm hoping to push them out on the car rather than cutting them. Tonight's update, the HICAS ball joints are out and the new Eliminator bushes are in. I'll leave the arms out until I've had a go at the diff. Btw see below for the 21pc Universal Ball Joint Separator kit I got from Radum in Tullamarine, it's not bad value at $150. The ball joints came out very easily with this, the Pitman Arm Puller, a butane torch and a few random bits and bobs I had lying around the garage.

Thanks heaps Terry. I haven't been able to get distributor's details from the vendor but perhaps I could try Goodyear directly. Might give them a call.

Quick question, with the diff out can the subframe be dropped a little bit without removing all the stuff hanging off it (arms, hub etc.)? I've got this cool C clamp tool with drifts but it won't quite fit in the rear as the subframe sits so close to the floor. Made a start today, took the exhaust, HICAS arms and centre off. The HICAS ball joints are completely stuffed. Next up will try to get the ball joints out as per these instructions, fingers crossed...

Why on earth would you put different brand tyres front vs. rear if you're replacing the full set? Does not compute..

Had a field day shopping online and ordered the following, I'll keep you posted how it goes... SuperPro SPF2637K SuperPro SPF3775K Total HICAS Eliminator Kit AmPro Pitman Arm Puller

I'm running the second type (blue separate arms) in my R34, same for R33. You'll notice that the first type (one part) is for R32 only. Also adjusting the separate arms takes time as you'll need to take the wheel off and undo the top bolt on the upright for bigger adjustments. Just be prepared to pay more for wheel alignment, that's all.

The SPF one doesn't look too bad based on the instructions, looks it can be pulled in with a booker rod: